Anyone familiar with classic 1986 Cannondale QR skewer sizes?
I have a 1986 sr800 special edition, want to swap out to better quick release for my Superbe pro hubs, don't have a micrometer, was hoping one of you excellent folks here could post sizes for the 1986 sr800 and maybe go ahead and dump whatever info you have for frames from this era if you have, I also have an sr400 same vintage, different hubs.
Thanks! Posting photos of my ladies. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d7452e1dab.jpg 1986 sr800 Ebony Special edition (predecessor to the Black Lightning), want to swap out the skewers. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...184fcc2d2b.jpg 86 sr400 after a short rail trail run. |
Skewers from that era were essentially standardized across makes and models of hubs. In other words, anything would fit anything else.
Front hub: 100mm OLD (over-locknut distance), Rear hu: 126mm OLD. Cannondales have very thick dropouts so if you're trying to find something light weight or exotic you might be better with something for 130mm OLD. Many of those didn't show up until the late '80's or '90's, though. |
My suggestion is to shy away from the QR skewers that have an exposed cam riding on a plastic base/curved base. These tend to not allow for as much clamping ability then the more classic internal cam type (think Shimano, Campy and all the SunTours I've seen).
But it's your opinion that counts so my first question is "what do you mean by 'better'"? Lighter? Fancy name? stronger? Andy |
Originally Posted by StuBotNYC
(Post 22192534)
don't have a micrometer
Cool bikes, though. :thumb: |
Originally Posted by ThermionicScott
(Post 22192617)
Umm, use a ruler?
Cool bikes, though. :thumb: |
Since the skewer needs to be long enough to accommodate the outside of drop out to outside of other drop out face surfaces it is that length that is critical. The skewer also really wants the adjusting nut (the other end from the cam/lever) to have the threads a near complete overlap. It's OK if the skewer shaft's threads stick out past the nut but one doesn't want the shaft to only partially enter the nut. If the shaft is a few mms longer, and thus sticks out past the nut, then it can be cut down and deburred.
Note that I didn't reference the axle's or the inside to inside of drop outs lengths as these are not "real" numbers that count to what the QR is doing. Andy Edit- I'm still curious as to what aspect the OP is seeking to have the new skewers be "better". |
Originally Posted by Jeff Wills
(Post 22192571)
Skewers from that era were essentially standardized across makes and models of hubs. In other words, anything would fit anything else.
Front hub: 100mm OLD (over-locknut distance), Rear hu: 126mm OLD. Cannondales have very thick dropouts so if you're trying to find something light weight or exotic you might be better with something for 130mm OLD. Many of those didn't show up until the late '80's or '90's, though. The titanium skewers which are ubiquitous on Ebay and Alieexpress, on the other hand, will not work for 126mm. They only work for 130 and 135mm. |
I doubt that there exists anywhere in the world a QR skewer that is clearly better than the Superbe Pros you already have.
Quick release skewers can either be really light or really good. Yours are really good. --Shannon |
I commented on your other thread about using a larger tire on this frame. Mentioned the clearance to the chainstay bridge when installing the wheel.
When trying to get the wheel in, the right side "nut" of the quick release needs to pass next to the upper knuckle of the rear derailleur while being restricted by the chainstay bridge. For this pinch point, a smaller "nut" may give you more clearance. If it doesn't clear here, you'll have to remove the "nut" and/or deflate the tire. |
Originally Posted by ShannonM
(Post 22193205)
I doubt that there exists anywhere in the world a QR skewer that is clearly better than the Superbe Pros you already have.
Quick release skewers can either be really light or really good. Yours are really good. --Shannon I ran Superb Pro hubs and skewers for years on a Cannondale with standard length skewers for 126mm OLD. The Superb Pros have the D ring on the nut to add a touch of class. And yes, I have to remove the nut to remove and install the rear wheel. My issue is the RD interferes with the nut. Probably due to running 25’s and 28’s with little clearance. But at least I don’t have to deflate the tires. John |
Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart
(Post 22192682)
Since the skewer needs to be long enough to accommodate the outside of drop out to outside of other drop out face surfaces it is that length that is critical. The skewer also really wants the adjusting nut (the other end from the cam/lever) to have the threads a near complete overlap. It's OK if the skewer shaft's threads stick out past the nut but one doesn't want the shaft to only partially enter the nut. If the shaft is a few mms longer, and thus sticks out past the nut, then it can be cut down and deburred.
Note that I didn't reference the axle's or the inside to inside of drop outs lengths as these are not "real" numbers that count to what the QR is doing. Andy Edit- I'm still curious as to what aspect the OP is seeking to have the new skewers be "better". |
Originally Posted by ShannonM
(Post 22193205)
I doubt that there exists anywhere in the world a QR skewer that is clearly better than the Superbe Pros you already have.
Quick release skewers can either be really light or really good. Yours are really good. --Shannon |
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