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Degreaser for Squirt Lube

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Degreaser for Squirt Lube

Old 09-10-21, 09:06 AM
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MarcusT
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Degreaser for Squirt Lube

Does anyone know if one uses a regular chain degreaser for Squirt and other wax based lubes?
Any homemade solutions that work?
Thanks
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Old 09-10-21, 03:48 PM
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Can you elaborate. Are you trying to get all of the wax-based lube off and out of the chain, or just clean it for the next application of your wax-based lube?
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Old 09-11-21, 01:32 AM
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For a deep clean I use degreaser followed by a small amount of a more runny lube, and then finish with squirt. For a casual clean I use the runny lube first then apply squirt after wiping away the excess. The runny lube serves as a solvent and I just use whatever I have laying around, whether it's another liquidy lube, mineral oil, motor oil, whatever.
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Old 09-11-21, 01:37 AM
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Sy-Just a basic cleaning. I did about 100 km on dusty gravel roads. Now, trying to get rid of all the crud.
tfunk- Thanks, the bio degreaser I have, does not seem up to the job
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Old 09-11-21, 07:48 AM
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I have the Finish Line citrus degreaser and it works very well on my Smoove (which is similar to Squirt). I assume you have a good brush along with the degreaser. I sprung for one of those Park Tool contraptions you attach to the chain.
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Old 09-11-21, 08:12 AM
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Squirt does not need removal by chemical means. Any crud that gets into the rollers is caught in the wax & migrates out by way of the chain action. Anything on the outside of the chain can be removed by way of a tooth brush.

It's almost as if the previous posters don't understand how a wax based lube works. It even says on the label on bottle of Squirt itself not to degrease again after the initial cleaning process.

It's wax. Dipping it in a warm bath would melt away any extra as well if you unnecessarily decided to go that route. Some members of this forum have even been known to use parrafin & a crock pot to refresh the chain with new wax. Squirt is just a water/wax emulsion whereby the water evaporates obtaining the same end result minus the hassle & hot cauldron like witchcraft.
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Old 09-11-21, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by base2 View Post
It's almost as if the previous posters don't understand how a wax based lube works. It even says on the label on bottle of Squirt itself not to degrease again after the initial cleaning process.
Zero Friction Cycling, the masters of lube tech these days, disagree with that label - see https://zerofrictioncycling.com.au/w.../12/Squirt.pdf. They say some of the dirt does get flushed out but it still retains some and wears the chain. You can clean the chain less frequently but it still needs cleaning.

Also, it is not just paraffin, it has other stuff in it which I have not seen the list of. The wax part is slack wax which itself includes oils and other ingredients (it is an unrefined wax).

My guess is Dawn soap plus hot water would also get the chain clean, I have been meaning to try that.
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Old 09-11-21, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by scottfsmith View Post
Zero Friction Cycling, the masters of lube tech these days, disagree with that label - see https://zerofrictioncycling.com.au/w.../12/Squirt.pdf. They say some of the dirt does get flushed out but it still retains some and wears the chain. You can clean the chain less frequently but it still needs cleaning.

Also, it is not just paraffin, it has other stuff in it which I have not seen the list of. The wax part is slack wax which itself includes oils and other ingredients (it is an unrefined wax).

My guess is Dawn soap plus hot water would also get the chain clean, I have been meaning to try that.
That was a very informative .pdf. I read every word.

I liked that he is very upfront about getting the lube to where it needs to go, & in spite of it's limitations in initial first application, it more-or-less performs as advertised.

That pdf could explain my own personal success with Squirt. I have always done an initial application, ran the chain backwards for several minutes to distribute the lube into where ever it needed to go, then repeated a second time & let everything dry 24 or more hours until I was ready to use the bike again. Which does not disagree with what Friction Facts recommends would be advisable practice.

Thanks!
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Old 09-11-21, 11:44 PM
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Thanks for the info
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Old 09-13-21, 12:20 AM
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I found that Squirt washes off easily with soapy water since the chain doesn't get that dirty to begin with. Whether it gets the bits out from inside the chain I couldn't tell. Once I prep a chain for it I don't think I've ever purposely washed it, just when washing the bike in general. When I've put the bike on the trainer the mat always gets covered in road crud that flakes off.

But I'm not one to get crazy about my chain. When it needs to be replaced I just replace it. I don't fret that I'm only getting X miles with it instead of Y. I just want quiet fast shifting and running.
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Old 09-13-21, 02:11 AM
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When I want to do a deep clean of a chain lubricated by Squirt, I take it off, put it in a jar with dishwasher detergent, let it soak a bit, give it a good shake, wash it out, finish cleaning with a rag. Then for reapplying Squirt I put the chain in a jar, put it in the oven, heat it up, and then liberally squirt with Squirt and let it soak. Otherwise it's hard for the lube to actually penetrate between the rollers. Normally when I do this I also remove the cassette and clean that and clean the chainrings and jockey wheels, too. I do it pretty rarely though, normally the chain gets a wipe to get rid of the crud outside and a quick reapplication of Squirt, a deep clean is something I do every 1000-2000km, often before a race or big event.

Moved to UFO chain lube on one of the bikes to see how well that works.
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Old 09-13-21, 07:46 AM
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From what I just read, my homemade liquid paraffin based lube works better than squirt and costs pennies per ounce. The formula is secret: 1 part paraffin with 20-30% automotive gear lube, dissolved in 4-6 parts naphtha or camp stove fuel. It only keeps its water like viscosity above about 80F, so it must be warmed in hot tap water to use. I also use a heat gun to warm the chain if it's cold and causes the lube to lose its low viscosity. I relube about every 150 miles, which is weekly for me. I take the chain off about every 600 miles and use mineral spirits or camp stove fuel for cleaning. The solvent goes back into a storage bottle for many reuses.


I love the squirt instructions that suggest applying a stream of lube while rotating the crank. Do that and each relube will be pricey. Over the life of a chain, the lube might cost more than the chain. I place 1-2 drops of my lube on each roller.
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Old 09-13-21, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by DaveSSS View Post

I love the squirt instructions that suggest applying a stream of lube while rotating the crank. Do that and each relube will be pricey. Over the life of a chain, the lube might cost more than the chain. I place 1-2 drops of my lube on each roller.
Do they recommend that each time or just the first time? Or each time it is thoroughly cleaned? I use the 1 or 2 drop method with Squirt and the bottle lasts a long time. If I'm doing a newly prepped chain I may ride it once or twice and then do it again. I never soak the chain with the stuff as you wipe off the excess anyway.

And the thing I like about Squirt is it comes in a squeeze bottle all ready to use. No mixing, no fussing and no fuels and smells. It is enough of a fuss to have to squeeze the bottle.

As I said above, I don't stress about it.
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Old 09-13-21, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by zacster View Post
Do they recommend that each time or just the first time? Or each time it is thoroughly cleaned? I use the 1 or 2 drop method with Squirt and the bottle lasts a long time. If I'm doing a newly prepped chain I may ride it once or twice and then do it again. I never soak the chain with the stuff as you wipe off the excess anyway.

And the thing I like about Squirt is it comes in a squeeze bottle all ready to use. No mixing, no fussing and no fuels and smells. It is enough of a fuss to have to squeeze the bottle.

As I said above, I don't stress about it.
So, depending on how fast you turn the crank or how many revolutions of the chain, is doing a stream necessarily that much more than 2 drops per roller/link?
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Old 09-13-21, 10:23 AM
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Anything I'd call a stream would waste a lot of lube. It's a stupid way to apply lube. My lube is in a plastic bottle with a hole the size of a straight pin for precise application. It doesn't smell bad either. It also delivers long chain life. Zero friction mentions significant wear after 1000km. I measure elongation over the full length of my chains and I've seen no significant elongation after 1000km on force axs chains. I have 8 chains in a rotation with two bikes.
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Old 09-13-21, 11:20 AM
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maybe the OP just needs to wipe down the chain with a dry cloth & knock out any debris from inside the links? fwiw - I've started using straw brushes to occasionally clean chains. they are nice & thin
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