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Which canti do I have, no fine adjustment

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Which canti do I have, no fine adjustment

Old 09-13-21, 11:34 AM
  #1  
letank
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Which canti do I have, no fine adjustment

Got a 2nd hand bike,10 year old Soma frame with Shimano Ultegra, and shimano canti brakes, but there is no way to adjust the brake cable, anything that I am missing? If I tighten the cable at the allen, I will not be able to remove the wheel!

I replaced the pads, and check contact, but it is still not performing as well as my older bike.

thank you for your responses

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Old 09-13-21, 11:40 AM
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You can add a barrel adjuster where your cable housing enters the cable stop on the seat stays. Probably any bike shop will have one. As for removing the wheel, pop the cable out of the nds canti arm.
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Old 09-13-21, 11:45 AM
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caloso
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What shelbyfv said.
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Old 09-13-21, 12:00 PM
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I would say get some of these if your levers don't have built in releases.
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/produ...0/SM-CB90.html

So what do you mean by performance? Lever feel? Mushiness? Stopping distance? Sound?
IMHO braking isn't about the caliper or types of canti's, it is about whatever adjustment they have, the cable feel and the pad. I have always replaced my pads with Scott Mathauser pads and never been disappointed in braking power.
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Old 09-13-21, 12:41 PM
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+1 on the barrel adjuster. Jagwire makes a mickey adjuster that fits into the TT stop instead of the rear stop.
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Old 09-13-21, 12:47 PM
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I suggest reading the Sheldon Brown article on canti adjustment: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html
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Old 09-13-21, 01:00 PM
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letank
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Originally Posted by shelbyfv View Post
You can add a barrel adjuster where your cable housing enters the cable stop on the seat stays. Probably any bike shop will have one. As for removing the wheel, pop the cable out of the nds canti arm.
thank you ... barrel adjuster was the key word... I could not find. Yes, I figured out about the cable release, like the mountain bike, the shimano on the older bike had a release lever ,not a frequent poster-,but mechanically inclined... changed the headgasket on my kid's car, and degreed the camshaft on an older jeep.

Originally Posted by canopus View Post
I would say get some of these if your levers don't have built in releases.
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/produ...0/SM-CB90.html

So what do you mean by performance? Lever feel? Mushiness? Stopping distance? Sound?
IMHO braking isn't about the caliper or types of canti's, it is about whatever adjustment they have, the cable fell and the pad. I have always replaced my pads with Scott Mathauser pads and never been disappointed in braking power.
Thank you, that was my first stop, to the LBS, was handed the Scott Mathauser pads, not too much change, no sounds, but stopping distance is too long, I not will do the Conzelman grade in the Headland until the brakes are good , not mushy... wheels are true, pad wear is even.
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Old 09-13-21, 01:29 PM
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For better adjustability I would suggest getting rid of the link wire system and using a straddle wire and carrier instead. You will need to provide a means of catching the straddle wire if the main brake cable parts, to prevent the straddle wire from fouling the tire and locking the wheel, but that can be as simple as a reflector bracket or a loop of twine.
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Old 09-13-21, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by letank View Post
Thank you, that was my first stop, to the LBS, was handed the Scott Mathauser pads, not too much change, no sounds, but stopping distance is too long, I not will do the Conzelman grade in the Headland until the brakes are good , not mushy... wheels are true, pad wear is even.
Then I would ask, What distance is long for you at what speed? What are you comparing them to? How long did you ride the new pads and were they actual Mathauser's (I never see these in a bike shop) or Kool Stops? My Kool Stop Salmon's, I feel, are grabbier than the Mauthauser's but they don't stop for crap when wet.
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Old 09-13-21, 05:13 PM
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Also, to answer your original question, I believe the shimano model number for those brakes is BR-R550. Instruction manual is here if you want it.
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Old 09-13-21, 05:20 PM
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jsut to make sure, you don't have V-brake only levers on? They don't have enough leverage. The cable sits differently than in canti or sidepull levers (unless you have drop bars, of course)
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Old 09-14-21, 05:09 AM
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It looks like the return spring adjustment screw on the pictured brake arm is threaded all the way in. While not necessarily wrong, it is atypical and could indicate other issues with brake adjustment. I generally keep all return springs adjusted as loose as possible but as tight as necessary. This generally improves brake lever feel and is a good foundation for the rest of the brake system adjustment.

In addition to checking out the Sheldon Brown link above, I'd thread the return spring adjustment screws all the way out and even verify that the spring pins are in the middle hole in the cantilever bosses (if multiple holes are present). Once you've verified the spring pins are in the middle hole, use the return spring adjustment screws only as necessary to center the brake arms on the rim.
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Old 09-14-21, 12:06 PM
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letank
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Originally Posted by AeroGut View Post
Also, to answer your original question, I believe the shimano model number for those brakes is BR-R550. Instruction manual is here if you want it.
Thank you Aerogut, this is the salvation, as per the instruction manual the brake washers had been put incorrectly, which had made the alignment a real pita... but I made it work yesterday. I have a firm control of the rear brake... with good stopping power.

I will do the front later.

Yes I have drop bars

Originally Posted by hokiefyd View Post
It looks like the return spring adjustment screw on the pictured brake arm is threaded all the way in. While not necessarily wrong, it is atypical and could indicate other issues with brake adjustment. I generally keep all return springs adjusted as loose as possible but as tight as necessary. This generally improves brake lever feel and is a good foundation for the rest of the brake system adjustment.

In addition to checking out the Sheldon Brown link above, I'd thread the return spring adjustment screws all the way out and even verify that the spring pins are in the middle hole in the cantilever bosses (if multiple holes are present). Once you've verified the spring pins are in the middle hole, use the return spring adjustment screws only as necessary to center the brake arms on the rim.

Thank you all for the infos, yes for the adjustment screws... I observed that and found it odd, good pick ... will correct

The other glitch



Last edited by letank; 09-15-21 at 11:21 AM. Reason: update
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Old 09-15-21, 07:11 PM
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letank
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Took care of the glitch and set up the concave washers properly , one on each side... a lot easier. Brakes are much better, did a quick 20 mile ride .

The Scott/Mathauser pads are the Yokozuna brand.

Thanks again for the support




Post edit: with all the hardware set properly, it does not seem that I will need that cable adjuster hardware!

Last edited by letank; 09-16-21 at 09:53 PM.
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