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New Build - Frame Up - need advice on how to buy GroupSet

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New Build - Frame Up - need advice on how to buy GroupSet

Old 09-16-21, 02:33 AM
  #26  
jgwilliams
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Have you thought about looking to European suppliers? Mantel, Bike24 and r2-bike come to mind. Since I'm in the UK I don't know whether they would ship to the US, but it's worth a look.
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Old 09-16-21, 09:32 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by returnoftheyeti View Post
I am learning fast.... How do you tell on that bike its a 135MM non-thru axel?
A through-axle frame doesn't have "open" dropouts like this one, the dropouts are sockets that completely enclose the TA, and the through-axles are always (AFAICT) included with the frame (also note that there are 2 different through-axle diameters and 3 different threads).

I need to read/learn more about Wheels and axles. Thanks!
Before you start buying parts, you need to figure out all the "compatibility points". You've already figured out the bottom bracket, which is important. But there's also:

- Headset: I think there are 4 headset interface standards
- Through axle/quick release
- over-locknut distance (specs on this frame don't indicate it)
- Steerer tube diameter
- Seat-tube diameter (looks like this comes with its own aero seatpost).
- Brake mounting (this uses post mounting, which has fallen out of favor on road bikes, flat mount is overwhelmingly popular now)
- With flat mount brakes, there are several different bolt lengths; you're supposed to use one that suits the depth of the mounting holes (this is poorly documented).
- Front derailleur mounting (this uses a "braze-on" mount)
- Cable routing (may determine how much cable outer you need)

I'm probably forgetting a few things. Anyhow, as others have pointed out, this is using some standards that have already fallen out of favor, and for a project like this, I would not want to start out with out-of-date standards.

This frame is an "open mold" frame, and you can get exactly the same thing, as well as other open-mold frames, from a bunch of Chinese manufacturers (who often even use the same product codes for the same designs), as well as Western companies that slap their own paint and branding on them.

Remember to budget for tools. And all the dumb little parts you forgot you needed, like bottle-cage bolts, stem caps, headset spacers, etc.
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Old 09-16-21, 10:43 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by squirtdad View Post
Bikes direct is out of stock on about 90% of stuff this at $999 would have most of what OP needs https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...ntnoir_xii.htm
Yep, except OP returnoftheyeti is looking at a frame designed for a brazed on front derailleur mount, while the Motobecane comes with a band clamp front derailleur.
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Old 09-16-21, 11:26 AM
  #29  
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returnoftheyeti here is another thought/option for you, if your are in it for the build and learning and are not totally having to have a carbon frame and the very latest components. find a steel frame and build it up with modern (or modernish) components (which can make a great bike). how tall are your and what size frame do you use?

here is an example of a craigslist and other sources build from SFBAy craigslist
frames
aluminum/carbon giant frame 55cm $50 https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/bop...367113231.html

miyata (a personal favorite) 57cm spread to 130 $175 https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/bop...378636478.html

bottechia 63 cm $100 https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/bop...376505848.html

super cheap but paint project also https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/bop...367352021.html

full 105 set with wheels from classic and vintage for sale Shimano 105 5500/5503 group with wheels

8 speed wheel set $100 https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/bop...381149634.html
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Old 09-16-21, 02:27 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by adamrice View Post
A through-axle frame doesn't have "open" dropouts like this one, the dropouts are sockets that completely enclose the TA, and the through-axles are always (AFAICT) included with the frame (also note that there are 2 different through-axle diameters and 3 different threads).
Might have to modify that somewhat. Some bikes with thru-axles do actually have an open drop out or fork end on one side. It's been around a while. Haven't actually seen one in person. Or at least not one that I realized what I was looking at.

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Old 09-16-21, 02:30 PM
  #31  
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Yeah, I knew if I didn't put in a caveat, someone would bring that up. I've never actually seen one either, so I felt safe omitting it.
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Old 09-16-21, 07:57 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by squirtdad View Post
returnoftheyeti here is another thought/option for you, if your are in it for the build and learning and are not totally having to have a carbon frame and the very latest components. find a steel frame and build it up with modern (or modernish) components (which can make a great bike). how tall are your and what size frame do you use
i need a 52. I figured that the really old frames like that would be harder to turn into a modern bike, and everyone here is telling me the frame I found from ~2015 is going to be hard to find parts for. I am not so sure I am up for the challenge of a steelie rebuild.

Craigslist around here is insane. 2013 Giant Defy for $640 and its beat to hell, thats what pushed me to start looking at Open Mold bikes.
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Old 09-16-21, 08:11 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by returnoftheyeti View Post
i need a 52. I figured that the really old frames like that would be harder to turn into a modern bike, and everyone here is telling me the frame I found from ~2015 is going to be hard to find parts for. I am not so sure I am up for the challenge of a steelie rebuild.

Craigslist around here is insane. 2013 Giant Defy for $640 and its beat to hell, thats what pushed me to start looking at Open Mold bikes.
The reason that the frame you chose would be hard to build is that it uses 2 obsolete standards, quick release disc wheels and post mount brakes, If you must have disc brakes, buy a frame that uses through axes and flat mount brakes. Any frame for rim brakes that has 130mm dropout spacing will be much easier to equip than the frame you chose even if the frame is as much as 30 years old
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Old 09-16-21, 08:22 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by alcjphil View Post
The reason that the frame you chose would be hard to build is that it uses 2 obsolete standards, quick release disc wheels and post mount brakes, If you must have disc brakes, buy a frame that uses through axes and flat mount brakes. Any frame for rim brakes that has 130mm dropout spacing will be much easier to equip than the frame you chose even if the frame is as much as 30 years old
Got it - that makes a lot of sense. And its probably why that frame is super cheap.

ok, need 130mm dropout and V Brakes.
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Old 09-16-21, 08:35 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by returnoftheyeti View Post
Got it - that makes a lot of sense. And its probably why that frame is super cheap.

ok, need 130mm dropout and V Brakes.
Not v brakes, they are not used on road bikes. Almost all rim brake road bikes use sidepull dual pivot caliper brakes
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Old 09-16-21, 09:17 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by returnoftheyeti View Post
i need a 52. I figured that the really old frames like that would be harder to turn into a modern bike, and everyone here is telling me the frame I found from ~2015 is going to be hard to find parts for. I am not so sure I am up for the challenge of a steelie rebuild.

Craigslist around here is insane. 2013 Giant Defy for $640 and its beat to hell, thats what pushed me to start looking at Open Mold bikes.
returnoftheyeti I live in san jose so I know what you mean I have done a fair amount of old steel to modern. other than if the spacing needs to go from 126 to 130 and it it not really any different. I like the results in terms of ride and modern gear hardest part of any build is just getting all the parts that match to work well

size helps

aluminum/carbon battalgin rim brake 68 english BB (which is a good thing vs fighting pressin) $200 maybe on edge of large for you frameset https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/bop...369388935.html

real project maybe if you find a bike you like and then want a project 52cm centurion lemans, with parts and stuck seat post $50 https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/bik...381396577.html

wheels can be gotten in decent quality new $219 for 105 7000 hubs and mavic cxp rims https://www.velomine.com/index.php?m...n6s8hh6atduma5

complete bikes

novaro (rei house brand) $325 https://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/bik...377665189.html

If this is still around it is pretty nice steel frame, carbon fork ultegra 9 speed triple lemond Zurich https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/bik...374570458.html


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Old 09-16-21, 09:39 PM
  #37  
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$800 for that LeMond seems high, but what do I know.

what really blows my mind is the number of bikes listed on CL for 3K or more.

Thanks for the ideas on the steelies - I’ll keep my eyes open, I think I would prefer an aluminum (or carbon) but knowing I can rebuild one with modern components is a cool trick.

I have to find some complete groupsets though, the lack of availability is grim.
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Old 09-17-21, 09:44 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by returnoftheyeti View Post
$800 for that LeMond seems high, but what do I know.

what really blows my mind is the number of bikes listed on CL for 3K or more.

Thanks for the ideas on the steelies - Iíll keep my eyes open, I think I would prefer an aluminum (or carbon) but knowing I can rebuild one with modern components is a cool trick.

I have to find some complete groupsets though, the lack of availability is grim.
I am fond of steel so I tend that way

the lemond in the shape it is in as equipped is pretty much market in the bay area if not slightly below, yes it is bit older technology (9 speed) but I had that group and it works really well. you would be hard pressed to build a bike below this cost unless you have a huge parts bin, but if you want the 11 speed compact crank stuff it is not for you

have fun, but don't discount steel frames....aluminum is not always lighter and can have a harsh ride depending on the frame

Another thing to think about is what type of riding are you planning on......no one has asked yet assuming by your frame choice road fast

and a final thought, you need to be careful if you buy a chinese bike about things like proprietary seat post design. It could be impossible to find a replacement to the aero post (hard enough with major brand names) so what ever you get I would suggest round seatpost, 68mm english BB
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Old 09-17-21, 06:39 PM
  #39  
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Thanks SquirtDad - maybe Ill run into you out on Old La Honda...
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