Another 126mm to 130mm thread
 

I just received my 1985 Mercian frameset.
I measured the rear dropouts and they are 126mm.
I would like to use a 130mm hub. The options as I understand it are:

1. Leave as is and just spread the dropouts when putting the wheel in. I tried spreading them and it does take a little bit of effort.

2. Spread them by hand by using a threaded rod, washers and nuts. This could risk damaging the frame.

3. Take it to a frame builder and have them do it.

Option 1 is preferred and I don't plan on taking off the wheel except for flats.
I know of two frame builders locally (SoCal) but not sure if they do this and how much they charge.

Thanks for any advise.

Why do you want to spread it to 130mm? Just leave it at 126mm. Depending on which hub you plan to use, there are different ways to narrow the hubs to 126mm.

Speaking for myself, I will never buy a frame that has been tweaked by some rando with a 2X4 on their garage floor. Do not do this to anything other than a throw-away frame that has no value to anyone.

It's easy to spread a steel frame from 126 to 130, you can do it yourself with 30 minutes of research and a 2X4. The drop outs may end up not quite parallel but this is another easy fix. Having said that, it's a complete non issue to put a 130 hub in a 126 frame, even if the frame is aluminum.

Because I want to use an 11 speed cassette, I don't think that is possible with a hub that is 126mm.
I agree with the 2x4, I do not want to do that with a frame that I value highly.

I wouldn't hesitate to spread them if there isn't enough natural spring in them just to allow you to get your new 11 speed hub up in there. And if I messed it up trying to spread them, then I'd just find another frame. Old frames are plentiful IMO. Hopefully one with the proper spacing. But if not I'd try again and maybe I'll have learned some nuances about spreading the stays that I didn't realize before.

Sheldon Brown had a decent article about spreading them.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html

I've had it done thru Joe Bell in Spring Valley. Take bare frame and fork in and get frame spread and everything aligned professionally for $100.

Forgot about Joe Bell, good suggestion.

A lot of people have gone from 126mm to 130mm without any issues.

I’ve used the threaded rod with nuts and washers and the followed up with a crescent wrench to get the dropouts parallel. Doesn’t seem to be an issue with 8 or 9 speed.

However, if I were going to 11 speed, I’d probably take the frame in to a “competent” shop/builder to make sure it was done right and aligned correctly.

John

That can't be legit. Obviously some rando with a 2X4:roflmao:

If you are going to pay a competent mechanic, you might shoot for >130mm since you are going 11 speed.
Wider reduces wheel dish. (I'm pushing about 132 on a former 126)
A rear offset spoked rim would greatly help too.

This worked great for me.

I am not a fan of the threaded rod method.... I used a 2x4 and sheldon's method to go from 126 to 135 https://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html

also some old school bikes shops will do this.

If you must have an 11 speed drivetrain then I guess you have no choice. Do you really need an 11 speed drivetrain that 7,8,9 speeds won't do?

I've been a fan of 9 speed and would have been perfectly happy if they'd focused just on improving that. However, when it's gone it's gone. If you want to buy a new group you are stuck with 11 speed unless you want to venture far down the food chain.

Same for me. A few bucks and it was really easy. The drop outs needed minor adjusting, I used RJ's method for that. I cannot say what anyone else's outcome might be, but I would not not hesitate to do it again. Everything came straight and aligned, no issues.

A former frame builder cold set my 121 mm dropouts to 128 mm. I gave him my bare frame with BB and $75 and got my frame back with overhauled BB in addition to the new spacing. It would have been $50 if I had removed the BB. That was 5 years ago, so $100 for a full alignment ...um... doesn't seem out of line for 2021 in SoCal. $100 may even be a bargain.

I guess I am spoiled with 11 speed although now there is 12 speed.
It is not easy to find components for 7,8,9 speed but I admit that I have not looked hard.
Also it would be nice if it was compatible with my other bike in case I needed to swap wheels or components.

Obviously, he only dealt in "throw-away frames that have no value to anyone." :lol:

need 130 for anything more than 7 speed

I stuck a 130 wheel in my 126 Davidson with no issues at all, and this was over 15 years ago. It is still around and kicking and has returned home to Seattle where I intend to ride it when I visit my son out there. It'll be a real kick to ride a 40 year old bike there! I'll make it a point to visit Davidson's shop.

I've ran a 130 hub in a 126 frame for years and it takes almost no effort to remove the wheel. Just slide the axle in all the way the right dropout and you only have to slightly pull on the left side to get it in. I also have another vintage frame that was cold set to 130 before I bought and it's nice but not worth the effort IMO. Plus someday you might want to run a vintage group/hubs or someone else might if you sell it.

Yes, those of us that have done this all know it just works. I never understand the reluctance or the need to set the frame. I also have a Cannondale frame that has a 126 setup on it, but the frame itself is 128 and can take 130 as well and those bikes were sold both ways.

8 of 9 on 7, etc. Just last week somebody reported that a CS 6700 10 speed cassette that has the dished in back side, fits on the 7 sp hub just fine. Or alternatively just take the spacer off the left side and run an Off center rim to compensate.

Absolutely not true, there are many ways to run more than 7 speed on frames with OLD less than 130mm. Threads on this site have detailed this numerous times. Just need to have the knowledge on wheel structure and mechanical ability to do this properly.

let me rephrase: Need 130 to do more than 7 speed, without having to do a lot of fussy hacking or messing around, like re-dishing. YMMV but IME trying to make things work beyond what they were designed to do often results in inferior results.