What do you think of hammering spokes to seat/flatten them?
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What do you think of hammering spokes to seat/flatten them?
I'm in the process of building a 36-spoke wheel and have been following the video below. At 15:30 he talks about hammering the spokes with a rubber mallet to flatten them. He certainly seems to know what he's talking about - it's just that the notion of blows like that even with a rubber mallet make me nervous about possibly doing damage. If it makes a difference I'm using DT Swiss Alpine3 triple-butted spokes.
Perfectly valid practice and no reason to be concerned in your view? Do you think there's a better way?
Go to 15:30 to see the section in question.
Perfectly valid practice and no reason to be concerned in your view? Do you think there's a better way?
Go to 15:30 to see the section in question.
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Yup, common practice for new spokes. You could press a flat piece of wood on the elbows to do the same thing if you're more comfortable with that but a soft mallet is easier IME.
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I like the Park Tool vidio method better, they just give a little extra bend when inserting the spoke into the hub as shown in their video at 5:15.
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Totally fine to do it, won't hurt anything. I just bend mine after lacing and before tensioning.
#5
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I have done it a few times, no problem,
Also grab pairs of spokes in the middle with gloves and pull them together to relieve stress.
I rarely have to go back and re-true my wheels.
Also grab pairs of spokes in the middle with gloves and pull them together to relieve stress.
I rarely have to go back and re-true my wheels.
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Hold the hub in the center of the rim with the spokes hanging down. If you are OCD or if you have bicycle mechanic friends and want to avoid ridicule, selection of the first spoke is (marginally) important. OCD mechanics want to have the label of the hub visible through the valve stem hole of the rim. To accomplish this, find the label on the hub and count 4 spokes holes (i.e. 2 spokes) to the right of the label. Select this spoke (which from now on will be referred to as the No.1 spoke) and put it through the first hole to the left of the valve hole. Attach its nipple a couple of turns.
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There use to be a spoke head punch available but like tools that are un needed it likely suffered a slow poor selling death. I use my hands/fingers to bend/remove the bowing that new spokes have when initially laced up in a wheel. Andy
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I’ve never used a hammer to form the elbows to the hub. Pressing with my thumbs while the spokes are under low tension seems to do the job.
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The Park method of lacing is what I use and teach. It’s easier to keep track of the spokes. The other method uses key spokes and a whole lot of counting. I only have to count one spoke and that one isn’t all that important. As I tell my students
To form the spokes to the hub, I prefer to use a lever. That bends the spokes on top and bottom. I use an old crank arm. I’ve used screwdrivers in the past but that can gouge the spokes. Aluminum is softer.

To form the spokes to the hub, I prefer to use a lever. That bends the spokes on top and bottom. I use an old crank arm. I’ve used screwdrivers in the past but that can gouge the spokes. Aluminum is softer.
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#10
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I agree with cycommute on this, as does Ric Hjertberg: https://www.wheelfanatyk.com/blog/wh...the-spoke-path . This also is a little faster than hammering things.
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I used to worry a bit about bending spokes, until I started doing 36 spoke 20" wheels with aluminium rims.
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At 15:30 he talks about hammering the spokes with a rubber mallet to flatten them... it's just that the notion of blows like that even with a rubber mallet make me nervous about possibly doing damage. If it makes a difference I'm using DT Swiss Alpine3 triple-butted spokes....
Perfectly valid practice and no reason to be concerned in your view?
Perfectly valid practice and no reason to be concerned in your view?
It only seats the spokes that exit to the outside, so you still need to use a crank arm (or similar), to get the interior exiting spokes to seat well.
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#14
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I've NEVER pounded spokes (even in the old days with a smaller J bend). Never had a problem, Never had to worry about knick marks. Even on a 20" wheel, 36s, 4X "race" lace pattern (all spokes radiate to the outside of the hub).
Besides doing that on a colored spoke would be a no no..
Besides doing that on a colored spoke would be a no no..
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I agree with cycommute on this, as does Ric Hjertberg: https://www.wheelfanatyk.com/blog/wh...the-spoke-path . This also is a little faster than hammering things.
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I use the the soft hammer method on the heads-in spokes. Super quick and easy. I see no reason to reshape the heads-out spokes. Frankly, I think this is a mistake. Have at me if you like....
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I've always just used my fingers or thumbs. No drama, no issues on wheels that have tens of thousands of miles on them. Nothing wrong with using a mallet or lever, but I've never thought it necessary.
I imagine that there is some wheel builder somewhere who advocates the use of a dial indicator to measure the degree of bend.
I imagine that there is some wheel builder somewhere who advocates the use of a dial indicator to measure the degree of bend.
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Read the Hjertberg link above. It has a good explanation of why bending both spokes is a good idea.
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Stuart Black
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Days of Wineless Roads. Bed and Breakfasting along the KATY
Twisting Down the Alley. Misadventures in tornado alley.
#19
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I've never built a wheel, but I can understand there being some "constructional loosening" as tiny high spots on spokes and seating surfaces settle in. Perhaps hammering speeds that up.