Reynolds Strike Wheel Tension and Balancing
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Reynolds Strike Wheel Tension and Balancing
Hello all,
Here again looking for some wheel building advice. A friend brought me a Reynolds Strike rear wheel that needed some spokes on the DS replaced due to a chain drop behind the cassette. Upon further inspection, I noticed that someone had done some (poor) work to the wheel before me. The wheel is laced with mostly DT Spokes, 2.0/1.5/2.0 on the NDS and 2.0/1.8/2.0 on the DS with 20 spokes in total. Three spokes had been replaced on the NDS with cheap off brand straight gauge 2.0 spokes and one spoke on the DS replaced with a DT 2.0 straight gauge spoke. The issue at the moment is that spoke tension is a little all over the place, also its dished pretty poorly towards the NDS of the bike. Which prompts a few questions....
NDS: 12 / 13 / 21 (2.0) / 5 / 22 (2.0) / 15 / 8 / 12 / 15 / 20 (2.0)
DS: 24 / 22 / 24 / 22 / 24 / 22 / 20 / 26 (2.0) / 24 / 21
Those super low readings on the NDS worry me and being as the DS spoke tension is already towards its maximum, would you drop the NDS spoke tension to achieve the correct dish? Anyway, know this is a lot but any information would be GREATLY APPRECIATED. Thank you for your time.
Here again looking for some wheel building advice. A friend brought me a Reynolds Strike rear wheel that needed some spokes on the DS replaced due to a chain drop behind the cassette. Upon further inspection, I noticed that someone had done some (poor) work to the wheel before me. The wheel is laced with mostly DT Spokes, 2.0/1.5/2.0 on the NDS and 2.0/1.8/2.0 on the DS with 20 spokes in total. Three spokes had been replaced on the NDS with cheap off brand straight gauge 2.0 spokes and one spoke on the DS replaced with a DT 2.0 straight gauge spoke. The issue at the moment is that spoke tension is a little all over the place, also its dished pretty poorly towards the NDS of the bike. Which prompts a few questions....
- Should I replace just the problematic spokes or start from scratch and rebuild the entire wheel?
- On a carbon wheel, is it poor practice to replace one spoke at a time (especially on such a low spoke count wheel)? Or should the entire wheel be de-tensioned and then replace spokes?
- These wheel use internal nipples. With it being carbon, is there supposed to be grease or oil on the nipple head where it contact the inside of the wheel? Couldn't this penetrate the carbon and make it weak?
- Reynolds suggests 90-100kgf for their wheels...should I throw these numbers out the door? Spoke tension would have to be very low on the NDS to achieve the correct dish (more on that later).
- If I end up re-building the entire wheel, would you suggest keeping the same type of butting as what it current has?
- Do 1.5mm spokes elongate so much that you have to adjust spoke length when moving to a different gauge spoke?
NDS: 12 / 13 / 21 (2.0) / 5 / 22 (2.0) / 15 / 8 / 12 / 15 / 20 (2.0)
DS: 24 / 22 / 24 / 22 / 24 / 22 / 20 / 26 (2.0) / 24 / 21
Those super low readings on the NDS worry me and being as the DS spoke tension is already towards its maximum, would you drop the NDS spoke tension to achieve the correct dish? Anyway, know this is a lot but any information would be GREATLY APPRECIATED. Thank you for your time.
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NDS tension isn't measured when building wheels...only DS. You tension the DS to the specified tension for whatever gauge of spoke you have and/or what the rim builder specifies. When the wheel is straight and round AND centered over the hub the NDS tension is what it is. Don't worry about it. I'd replace all of the spokes/nipples and start over. Not sure whether Reynolds used nipple washers on that particular wheel, you can find out by looking. I lube every nipple/rim interface on every wheel I build, doesn't matter if it's carbon. It's cured and the lube won't penetrate.
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NDS tension isn't measured when building wheels...only DS. You tension the DS to the specified tension for whatever gauge of spoke you have and/or what the rim builder specifies. When the wheel is straight and round AND centered over the hub the NDS tension is what it is. Don't worry about it. I'd replace all of the spokes/nipples and start over. Not sure whether Reynolds used nipple washers on that particular wheel, you can find out by looking. I lube every nipple/rim interface on every wheel I build, doesn't matter if it's carbon. It's cured and the lube won't penetrate.
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If the drive side is say 100kgf and you make the wheel straight and centered what can you do about the non drive side? Nothing. For any given rim/hub combination it is what it is. I've built thousands of wheels and never once worried about it.
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Understand, makes plenty of sense. What's your take on manufacturers recommendations in regards to maximum spoke tension? Safe to travel a little above it? I've read in a couple other forums that a lot of builders disregard this number. Thoughts? Of course if I want to play it safe, I'd stick to that number and go from there. Thank you for your time.
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Normally I will go exactly by what 'they' say. They designed and engineered the product and know way more about it than I do. If I went over tension and the wheel failed I'd by liable. Anyone that willfully disregards that spec is stupid IMO.
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Right on. Any advice on those other bullet points I listed? Although you touched on most of them.
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I could advise you on those points but I would instead advise you to go directly to the source for answers. I have found Reynolds to be very responsive to enquires whether by phone or on Facebook chat.