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RD adjustment

Old 12-15-21, 01:32 PM
  #26  
yannisg
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Originally Posted by KCT1986 View Post
The RD-5701 is the later version of the 5700 series RD and is rated for 30T low gear, so 32T may be possible.

Not sure if the elliptical ring will make a difference since it causes more movement of the cage and the pulley's possible distance to the cog.

Give it a try... Let us know
Re-installed the RD 5700 with the 32 tooth sprocket. It seems to work ok. Except for the 11 and 12 cog with the 34 sprocket where the chain almost rubs on the upper pulley. I would not use those cogs with the 34 sprocket anyway.
I had to turn the RD adjustment screw all the way in to reduced the chance of the chain rubbing.
I will need to ride the bike to see how smooth the shifting is.
Luckily the storms have passed and the weather will be good to the next days.
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Old 12-15-21, 01:38 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by yannisg View Post
Re-installed the RD 5700 with the 32 tooth sprocket. It seems to work ok. Except for the 11 and 12 cog with the 34 sprocket where the chain almost rubs on the upper pulley. I would not use those cogs with the 34 sprocket anyway.
Yes, using the two smallest cogs (in the cassette) with the 34T chain ring causes the chain to rub on the front derailleur cage (and maybe even the larger chain ring) and thus should be avoided if at all possible.

But what do you mean by "the chain almost rubs on the upper pulley"? The chain is carried by and thus must touch the upper pulley.

Originally Posted by yannisg View Post
I had to turn the RD adjustment screw all the way in to reduced the chance of the chain rubbing.
Do you mean the B screw (rather than the upper or lower limit screws)? The B screw is the one which adjusts the distance between the cassette and the upper pulley. If yes, that is to be expected when using a cassette with a cog (e.g., 32T) that is larger the maximum specified for the rear derailleur.
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Old 12-15-21, 02:03 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by SoSmellyAir View Post
Yes, using the two smallest cogs (in the cassette) with the 34T chain ring causes the chain to rub on the front derailleur cage (and maybe even the larger chain ring) and thus should be avoided if at all possible.

But what do you mean by "the chain almost rubs on the upper pulley"? The chain is carried by and thus must touch the upper pulley.



Do you mean the B screw (rather than the upper or lower limit screws)? The B screw is the one which adjusts the distance between the cassette and the upper pulley. If yes, that is to be expected when using a cassette with a cog (e.g., 32T) that is larger the maximum specified for the rear derailleur.
Yes, I mean the B screw I forgot its name.
This happens with the 34 sprocket where the chain is at its slackest.
I was considering getting an 11 spd right shifter and use my Ultegra 6800 RD, but the cost is high so hopefully I can get by with the above setup.
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Old 12-15-21, 02:50 PM
  #29  
KCT1986
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Originally Posted by yannisg View Post
Yes, I mean the B screw I forgot its name.
This happens with the 34 sprocket where the chain is at its slackest.
I was considering getting an 11 spd right shifter and use my Ultegra 6800 RD, but the cost is high so hopefully I can get by with the above setup.
Glad to hear that you're able to get it to shift to the 32T rear cog.

The chain rubbing at the pulley wheel while in the slackest combo is going to happen even if the chain is the correct length. If you have 50/34T, or similar chainrings, the short cage RD does not have the total take-up capacity (34) to maintain tension. You would need a GS version RD to increase the capacity. Staying out of the 11/12T while in the small chainring is advisable in any case.
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Old 12-17-21, 10:40 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by KCT1986 View Post
Glad to hear that you're able to get it to shift to the 32T rear cog.

The chain rubbing at the pulley wheel while in the slackest combo is going to happen even if the chain is the correct length. If you have 50/34T, or similar chainrings, the short cage RD does not have the total take-up capacity (34) to maintain tension. You would need a GS version RD to increase the capacity. Staying out of the 11/12T while in the small chainring is advisable in any case.
Took the bike for a ride today. Shifting seemed accurate, no noise. However, when in low gears heard a clicking-rubbing sound from crank area. At home, on the stand, I could simulate the noise that seems to be from the chain engaging on the crank sprockets. The only difference from before is that I am using 11-32 Sram sprocket instead of the 11-30 Shimano, and the b screw is almost all the way in. I'm not sure in this clicking was happening before, but if it was it was not noticeable.
My rotor elliptical cranks have about 40000k on them so maybe the teeth are worn. I have a compact crank that I might try.
This mismatch setup gets me thinking whether I should convert this bike to 11-spd. I could just replace the 10-spd right shifter with an 11-spd and install the RD-6800 11 spd or would it make sense to replace both left and right shifters as a set?
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Old 12-17-21, 04:06 PM
  #31  
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Is this happening when cross-chained (big/big)? If so, the angle of the chain may not be meshing with the chainring. A short chainstay frame dimension could play a part.

Don't know enough about the Rotor crank and rings to guess about much else. Things that would matter is tooth profile design, wear or burrs on the teeth, chainline, elliptical? ...

Cog teeth alignment of the new cassette and overall relation to the chainline could also play a part. Or a combination of a few of the above.
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Old 12-18-21, 10:54 AM
  #32  
yannisg
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Originally Posted by KCT1986 View Post
Is this happening when cross-chained (big/big)? If so, the angle of the chain may not be meshing with the chainring. A short chainstay frame dimension could play a part.

Don't know enough about the Rotor crank and rings to guess about much else. Things that would matter is tooth profile design, wear or burrs on the teeth, chainline, elliptical? ...

Cog teeth alignment of the new cassette and overall relation to the chainline could also play a part. Or a combination of a few of the above.
It's not happening when cross-chained.
I will replace the rotor crank with a Shimano compact and see if there is an improvement
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Old 12-19-21, 11:16 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by KCT1986 View Post
Is this happening when cross-chained (big/big)? If so, the angle of the chain may not be meshing with the chainring. A short chainstay frame dimension could play a part.

Don't know enough about the Rotor crank and rings to guess about much else. Things that would matter is tooth profile design, wear or burrs on the teeth, chainline, elliptical? ...

Cog teeth alignment of the new cassette and overall relation to the chainline could also play a part. Or a combination of a few of the above.
Finally, RD 5701 (short cage) is working just fine with the 11-32 SRAM cassette and elliptical rotor cranks (b screw almost all the way in). Cannot use 34 with 11 and 12 cog which I wouldn't use anyway.
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Old 12-19-21, 11:38 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by yannisg View Post
Finally, RD 5701 (short cage) is working just fine with the 11-32 SRAM cassette and elliptical rotor cranks (b screw almost all the way in). Cannot use 34 with 11 and 12 cog which I wouldn't use anyway.
Did you get the "clicking" issue figured out? What was the solution?
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Old 12-19-21, 01:19 PM
  #35  
yannisg
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Originally Posted by KCT1986 View Post
Did you get the "clicking" issue figured out? What was the solution?
Believe it or not. I clean the chain thoroughly, and forgot to lubricate it. Once lubricated there was no more clicking.
I probably will install a right side 11sp shifter so both bikes are 11 spd. One will have a 34 cog instead of 32.
Not much available online for 10spd anymore.
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