Conbine 11-32t cogs cassette to 11-46T
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Conbine 11-32t cogs cassette to 11-46T
Is possible to conbine #1-5cogs of 11S 11-32T cassette to #6-11cogs of 11-46T
Shimano 105 11-32t (11/12/13/14/16/18/20/22/25/28/32)
Shimano xt 11-46t only available cogs
(21-24-28-32-37-46)
when i combine, it will be
11/12/13/14/16/21/24/28/32/37/46
Shimano 105 11-32t (11/12/13/14/16/18/20/22/25/28/32)
Shimano xt 11-46t only available cogs
(21-24-28-32-37-46)
when i combine, it will be
11/12/13/14/16/21/24/28/32/37/46
Last edited by WykzCliff; 12-27-21 at 11:13 PM.
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That depends on how the cogs on each cassette are combined on spiders. If the #5 and # 6 cogs on the 11x32 are not bolted together and the last 6 cogs of the 11x46 have a "break" between #6 and the smaller cogs, then yes it's possible. Depending on the tooth difference between #5 and $6 on the combined cassette the shift quality at that point may not be ideal.
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If you are lucky enough to have loose cogs in the middle and can swap the 16 for a 17 (I know many would not like that) or the 21 for a 20 or both, the jumps get a little more manageable.
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I echo the above comments by HillRider, cxwrench, and 79pmooney. Moreover, in my experience (solely with 11 speed road cassettes), the downshift (from a physically smaller cog to the adjacent larger cog) at the transition between the two donor cassettes was problematic, even when it was only a single tooth jump.
Bike Forums - View Single Post - Custom 12-28 cassette
I surmise that this was due to mismatched Hyper Glide shift ramps when combining cassettes.
Bike Forums - View Single Post - Custom 12-28 cassette
I surmise that this was due to mismatched Hyper Glide shift ramps when combining cassettes.
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I went with 11-13-15-16-18-19-23-25-27-30-34.
no shifting issues that'd I'd be concerned with.
11-12-13-14-16-21-24-28-32-37-46 is slightly more aggressive with the last three cogs, but if you are able to sweep the shift to engage those, imo, 11 thru 14 might be difficult to dial in.
no shifting issues that'd I'd be concerned with.
11-12-13-14-16-21-24-28-32-37-46 is slightly more aggressive with the last three cogs, but if you are able to sweep the shift to engage those, imo, 11 thru 14 might be difficult to dial in.
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I have seen a post that a guy took a xt 11-42 cassette, bought a jr cassette on eBay, I think they sort at 14 on the smallest cod and worked on a 2X
With my age, weight and bad knees I have been searching for lower gears. 1X has too many gaps for me so I have a GRX 30-46 crank with a 11-36 in the rear and it works fine. But I still want lower so I want to do a 11-40. A recent gravel road had some steep climbs and I could have used a 40. I just wish they would start making a 14-40 something cassette.
I have also thought of doing a triple again. Might get a VeloOrange triple and that should work with my 11-36 10 speed stuff except the front shifter so I will have to use a bar con for the front shifter.
I remember the days of running a 39X26 and powering up the steeps along here. Those days are long gone.
With my age, weight and bad knees I have been searching for lower gears. 1X has too many gaps for me so I have a GRX 30-46 crank with a 11-36 in the rear and it works fine. But I still want lower so I want to do a 11-40. A recent gravel road had some steep climbs and I could have used a 40. I just wish they would start making a 14-40 something cassette.
I have also thought of doing a triple again. Might get a VeloOrange triple and that should work with my 11-36 10 speed stuff except the front shifter so I will have to use a bar con for the front shifter.
I remember the days of running a 39X26 and powering up the steeps along here. Those days are long gone.
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Well, same number of teeth but 16-21 is twice the percentage increase of 32-37. 16-21 is a 31% change vs 16% for 32-37.
If you are lucky enough to have loose cogs in the middle and can swap the 16 for a 17 (I know many would not like that) or the 21 for a 20 or both, the jumps get a little more manageable.
If you are lucky enough to have loose cogs in the middle and can swap the 16 for a 17 (I know many would not like that) or the 21 for a 20 or both, the jumps get a little more manageable.
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Shimano makes (or used to make) "Junior" 10-speed cassettes in 13x25,14x25 and 15x25 and, IIRC, 16x27. They also sold an 11-speed 14x28 but it seems to be discontinued. Miche still lists 11-speed "schoolboy" cassettes in 14x25, 16x30 and 16x27.
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Do you already have the pieces you are asking about combining? If so just put them together. If they won't go together for physical reason then they won't go together.
If they do go together and you can install it on your freehub and your rear DR can handle the range of size and take up the chain slack then you might can say it'll work. Whether those gear steps and combos are any better for you than what you can buy an already made cassette will be for you to decide.
If you don't have all the pieces parts and will have to buy something, then just get a complete cassette in the range you want. The manufacturers pretty much have the steps in between the min and max cog figured out for optimal performance. So unless you are truly unique.....
Don't forget you'll need a longer chain.
Oh yeah, welcome to BF!
If they do go together and you can install it on your freehub and your rear DR can handle the range of size and take up the chain slack then you might can say it'll work. Whether those gear steps and combos are any better for you than what you can buy an already made cassette will be for you to decide.
If you don't have all the pieces parts and will have to buy something, then just get a complete cassette in the range you want. The manufacturers pretty much have the steps in between the min and max cog figured out for optimal performance. So unless you are truly unique.....
Don't forget you'll need a longer chain.
Oh yeah, welcome to BF!
Last edited by Iride01; 12-28-21 at 01:05 PM.
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Hillrider, just seen where you are from. I was raised in West Homestead. Been in WV for the last 30 years so I know what you ride. Used to enjoy coming home and riding around there from my parents house. I still visit the area and always have a bike with me.
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Maybe would be better to take the 1st 5 of the 11-34 cassette instead?
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Yeah, I grew up in West Mifflin and went to Homestead High School in the late 1950's back before West Mifflin had its own High School and before the "Steel Valley" forced merger. I'm sure you agree my forum name is appropriate!
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The downshift issue can be solved by inserting paper spacers between the cog you have difficulty downshifting to and the next physically bigger cog.
You make paper spacers with bond paper and using the original plastic spacers to cut spacer shapes on the paper and finally putting small drops of light oil on the paper.
Begin inserting two piece at a time until the downshifting to the problematic cog and also upshifting from it becomes smooth.
You make paper spacers with bond paper and using the original plastic spacers to cut spacer shapes on the paper and finally putting small drops of light oil on the paper.
Begin inserting two piece at a time until the downshifting to the problematic cog and also upshifting from it becomes smooth.
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Don't use paper spacers that is a terrible idea. Cassettes don't need custom spacers and if they did they would come with them or you are just using the wrong cassette or other poor quality parts which will have shifting issues. The really only time you need an additional spacer is for adapting a certain cassette for a different freehub not for individual cogs. Shimano, Sram and Campy have already figured out those gaps to work with their derailleurs when properly set up.
If you cannot find the cassette already in existence I don't know that I would want that sort of gappy cassette if it would all work. Honestly I would just stick with the 11-46 or go with an 11-42 or something like that and not try to kludge something together. That will get expensive come replacement time as you are buying two more cassettes and only using half of each which leaves a lot of waste and no massive benefits.
If you cannot find the cassette already in existence I don't know that I would want that sort of gappy cassette if it would all work. Honestly I would just stick with the 11-46 or go with an 11-42 or something like that and not try to kludge something together. That will get expensive come replacement time as you are buying two more cassettes and only using half of each which leaves a lot of waste and no massive benefits.
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I have a feeling the paper spacer idiocy will become part of BF lore and reappear when needed. Like "crank it up to X00 watts" and "massive guads."

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But I still have a stack of bond paper left from much earlier in my career when hardcopy resumes and cover letters on bond paper were still expected. What am I going to do with it?
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Maybe soak it in full synthetic 5w-30 motor oil, then use it for roofing shingles?
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maybe use it to copy your kids feet imprint?
The carbon footprint of everlasting memories.
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Likewise, I still have an unused kit for that which my wife and I bought when she was pregnant. It is still NOS and my son recently turned 12.