Octalink Self Extracting Cap Cracked - suck crank arm
#1
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Octalink Self Extracting Cap Cracked - suck crank arm
Hi there,
I've got a Ultegra octalink crankset (I think it might be 6500) and the arm is stuck in the bike. Btw the crankset is surprisingly light.
It has a self extracting cap to remove the crank, the drive side came out fine but the other side is stuck.
I've tried to apply force to remove the crank but now the cap has cracked and any force applied only crack the cap more. Any suggestion on how to remove it off the bottom bracket?
This came from my ML3 Bianchi (crack frame) and I've just got a 928 frame, hence the transfer.
Many thanks

I've got a Ultegra octalink crankset (I think it might be 6500) and the arm is stuck in the bike. Btw the crankset is surprisingly light.
It has a self extracting cap to remove the crank, the drive side came out fine but the other side is stuck.
I've tried to apply force to remove the crank but now the cap has cracked and any force applied only crack the cap more. Any suggestion on how to remove it off the bottom bracket?
This came from my ML3 Bianchi (crack frame) and I've just got a 928 frame, hence the transfer.
Many thanks

#2
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I'm not an expert in this sort of thing, but I would re-tighten the crank-fixing bolt, then use a pin spanner to unscrew the cracked piece. Once that's out, a normal crank puller should work after removing the bolt.
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You need to unscrew the cap that's cracked, then remove the bolt. Use a good quality crank extractor tool and I recommend this Park tool as it can do the Octalink and various other square taper cranks. It's a quality tool and for under $15 (shop around) it's a no-brainer. CWP-7 Compact Universal Crank Puller | Park Tool Those self extracting caps, such as on the Octalink, sometimes work if the crank isn't stuck on but can crack with too much torque.
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And be sure to get the washer out from behind the bolt before using the extractor tool. That's a mistake I hope I'll only make once.
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With any luck the crank threads haven't been damaged. Make sure you get all the broken pieces out and clean up the threads as best you can before trying to install the crank remover.
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As someone who has buggered a crank even with the extractor properly threaded, I'd suggest taking an extra day or so to let some penetrating oil work. Also, maybe give the crank a couple of hammer taps to loosen things up.
#7
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Thanks guys, will need to get the self-extracting cap removal fool to remove it. I suspect it doesn't want to come out after the crack. Will keep you guys updated :-)
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Be sure to turn the crank-fixing bolt back to its original position (no torque needed though) to unload the cracked piece.
Then, if the pin spanner doesn't easily get results, I would give the cracked piece a couple of light taps with a mallet; it looks distorted, and may be binding in the crank threads.
Then, if the pin spanner doesn't easily get results, I would give the cracked piece a couple of light taps with a mallet; it looks distorted, and may be binding in the crank threads.
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If removing the ring becomes a make it or break it situation, I'd try a center punch in the spanner holes, tangential to the circle, tapping with a hammer to loosen, alternating between holes. Try the methods above first.
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#11
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"Borrow" the extractor ring from the other side before you spend money on a crank puller. I'd try penetrating oil, hammering and perhaps heat before. By the way, you can find extractor rings on Ebay and perhaps Amazon.
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