What tool to use for cutting cable housings?
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I've been using a Pedro's version for many years because that's what was available locally the day I needed it. It works fine. I have no idea if others would work better though.
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Although on a cold, rainy day like this, I could spend a few minutes gazing at a Felco's cutter if I had one, just because.
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I hear people talking about soldering the ends or in this case welding them, but why go through all that when all you need is a cable end cap that costs virtually nothing, and a pair of needle-nose pliers? It takes much less time (about two seconds), it gives the cable a more finished look, and the cable end won't poke you when you're cleaning the bike. It seems like welding cable ends is the proverbial "Ten dollar solution to a one dollar problem." But that's just me.
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#32
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That's what I use my leftover cable for! The CN-10 is sharp enough to cut through a housing with a cable in it. Before cutting the housing, feed a strand of scrap cable through it, just past the point you want to cut. Then use the CN-10 to cut through it. The cable will keep the braided housing from collapsing on itself.
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#33
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That's what I use my leftover cable for! The CN-10 is sharp enough to cut through a housing with a cable in it. Before cutting the housing, feed a strand of scrap cable through it, just past the point you want to cut. Then use the CN-10 to cut through it. The cable will keep the braided housing from collapsing on itself.
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#35
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The housing end caps are available. For example, these are for brake (5mm) housing: https://cambriabike.com/products/jag...16457543090250
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Dremel tool. Use scrap cable inside the housing. Dip the cut ends in JB Weld.
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#37
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1. crimp a cap on the wire pros: fast, cheap, easy. looks finished cons: have to cut it off if you want to remove the cable from the caliper and or housing, have to leave a long tail if you want to work on the brakes without cutting the cap off and having to put a new one on. sometimes caps fall off. not a big deal for most people.
2. twist weld pros: permanently fused, can be removed from the caliper for servicing or wheel removal. better appearance since not tail is needed for future adjustments or service. cons: looks unfinished to some without a cap, need torch, variable speed drill, some skill, potentially dangerous open flame, explosive gas.
3. wire weld pros: permanent, fast, cons: grinding the tip likely if you want it to be removeable. questionable appearance without additional work. need a mig welder and shielding gas and skill
4. jb weld pros: same as twist weld without the risks. cons: requires a trip to the store to buy jb weld and time and mess to mix it up.
Did I forget anything?
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Whenever these cable/housing cutter threads come up, I'm always tempted to move from my DeWalt side cutters, especially for housings.
I've not been a big fan of the Park, Pedros, SRAM, Shimano tools that are generally cheaper copies of non-bike tools; i.e. Felco C7.
My understanding is that Felco has been pretty much the standard over the years, but I decided to go with Knipex 95-61-190.
They are made in Germany, have a built in crimping tool, and a little less money.
John
I've not been a big fan of the Park, Pedros, SRAM, Shimano tools that are generally cheaper copies of non-bike tools; i.e. Felco C7.
My understanding is that Felco has been pretty much the standard over the years, but I decided to go with Knipex 95-61-190.
They are made in Germany, have a built in crimping tool, and a little less money.
John
#39
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+1. And twist welding to keep cable ends from fraying. You could even get away without cable cutters as Twist Welding does the cutting but the cutters are nice to have. Twist Welding Cable (How To) - YouTube
#40
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The housing end caps are available. For example, these are for brake (5mm) housing: https://cambriabike.com/products/jag...16457543090250
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Hey Cranky I was wondering if this twist welding method will work on stainless steel and galvanized. Im looking for the Schwinn huret shifter cables and I would like to get them in stainless or whatever is best. I found some in galvanized from jagwire but I understand the stainless is the best. Would this work on galv and stainless?
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Dremel cutting seems to offer the best result but I use a Park cable cutter. To get a cleaner cut I stuff a thick copper wire (10ga ?) into the housing before cutting...
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Because (from what I have read) housing does not wear out as quickly as cables fray?
But you are right, I might as well (buy the whole set and) replace both cable and housing (and bar tape) at the same time.
But you are right, I might as well (buy the whole set and) replace both cable and housing (and bar tape) at the same time.
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You can actually get a kit of precut cables for a 72 Schwinn Continental? Impressive!
Tim
Tim
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The liner in the housing is plastic, the cable is stainless steel. You tell me which will wear first. If it takes 2000miles for the shifter cable to fray inside the shifter the housing is worn.
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I’m not certain a housing liner wears all that quickly that it needs to be replaced when a cable is replaced because it is plastic.
There are plastic interfaces on a bike such as a linear brake noodle liner or the BB shell plastic cable guide that seem to last many years.
Housings do get old and gummed up, and I imagine some wear that impacts shifting performance, so replacing housings is important. And with additional cogs, it is probably more critical.
It will be interesting if the newer slick cables help with housing life.
John
There are plastic interfaces on a bike such as a linear brake noodle liner or the BB shell plastic cable guide that seem to last many years.
Housings do get old and gummed up, and I imagine some wear that impacts shifting performance, so replacing housings is important. And with additional cogs, it is probably more critical.
It will be interesting if the newer slick cables help with housing life.
John