View Poll Results: What should I do?
It's nothing, get a cassette that doesn't eat the hub and move on.




3
75.00%
Get a cassette that doesn't eat the hub but notify potential buyers of the damage.




1
25.00%
Just replace it.




0
0%
Voters: 4. You may not vote on this poll
Cassette hub too far gone?
#1
Mote of Dust
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Cassette hub too far gone?
When I got the wheelset there was a little play from a loose nut on the rear wheel so I removed the cassette to examine it and found this. A gouge on every spindle edge and the tops of every spindle are gouged to the point of not being square anymore. I don't think the play in the hub had much to do with it, I think it was mostly the steel Shimano cassette on the soft aluminum cassette hub. I'm thinking about filing down any high spots and giving it a go with a less destructive cassette. Should I just replace it? It's one of those hub bodies that sort of just pop out so replacing would be easy, but if I want a steel cassette hub to prevent this from happening in the future I may be out of luck. Also it's going on a bike that is most likely going to be sold. If it were staying with me I would use it as is and just keep the cassette hub issue in mind, but it's not. Writing this out has just about guilted me into just replacing it. What are your thoughts/what would you do?



#2
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Should I just replace it? It's one of those hub bodies that sort of just pop out so replacing would be easy, but if I want a steel cassette hub to prevent this from happening in the future I may be out of luck. Also it's going on a bike that is most likely going to be sold. If it were staying with me I would use it as is and just keep the cassette hub issue in mind, but it's not. Writing this out has just about guilted me into just replacing it. What are your thoughts/what would you do?
#3
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I would not bother to replace that. Perfectly serviceable.
Clearly not as issued, but it will work just fine for another 10K miles.
Clearly not as issued, but it will work just fine for another 10K miles.
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#4
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Make sure you get your cassette tight!!! There isn't some slop, like needing a spacer is there?
The high-end cassettes (Ultegra, Dura Ace, and I think some SRAM) use a common carrier on the larger sprockets. That will cause less wear for those sprockets. But, it won't do anything for the smaller sprockets.
Shimano put a deep spline on their 7800 aluminum freehubs, but that concept never really took off, and it still wasn't damage proof. Shimano mainly went to either steel or titanium freehubs.
The high-end cassettes (Ultegra, Dura Ace, and I think some SRAM) use a common carrier on the larger sprockets. That will cause less wear for those sprockets. But, it won't do anything for the smaller sprockets.
Shimano put a deep spline on their 7800 aluminum freehubs, but that concept never really took off, and it still wasn't damage proof. Shimano mainly went to either steel or titanium freehubs.

#5
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File it down and use it til it's a huge pain to get the cogs off.
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#7
Mote of Dust
Thread Starter
More info: it's a matching DT Swiss wheelset so I'd prefer not to just toss the whole wheel, though I hadn't thought of cassette hub availability as an issue until now. The cassette itself was tight, but the locknuts that holds the cassette hub in place was loose, so the whole cassette hub was able to move a little. Also I'm not sure why I kept saying spindles, especially since I've gone through a bunch of threads and just read the word spines like 100 times. I think I'm leaning towards finding the right cassette and moving on, though I might stop by the co-op and see what they have just in case I can grab one cheap.
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My experience with Mavic and Fulcrum is that the same freehub tends to be used across a lot of different wheels so parts remain easily available. Never had a DT Swiss wheel, more's the shame, but I think the same is likely to apply there.
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#10
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