Is there any 46/34 (not 36) crankset option for 11sp that fits BSA Shimano cups?
 

The only crankset from Shimano currently in 46/34 is FC-460 which is meant to be 10-speed. Up the lineup there's very limited subcompact options or am I missing something?

105 R7000 comes as 50/34 and standards only!

Ultegra offers 46/36 at best.

So I have to go buy 34T to put it on the Ultegra compact to get the 46/34?

Why does 46/34 get no love? And (this will be controversial) what is the 46/36 good for actually?

most likely this is because of the market wants (i.e buys)
here is my speculation, not fact, speculation
105/ultegra/dura ace are road groups so most buyer need or think they need the 50...and the 34 when combined with a 34 max rear cog pretty reasonable 1 to 1 low gearing

46/36 could be either for people trying to run some thing like a 10/42 (if they can get a rear derailler to work with that which is a question)

46/30 is logical because it give lower range and keeps with the current shimano rear derailler spec no more than 16to difference in crank rings

I really don't see 46/36 but similarly I don't see much need for 46/34 it gives a bit more low than 46/36 but has same high end limitations

maybe search shimanot press releases?

They did this with their GRX now (46/30), but their old fashioned CX groupsets were FC 46/36. The 46/30 would require PCD not really offered for road doubles.

But then before GRX, people were not riding gravel on road groupsets and cranksets?

46/36 was aimed at gravel riders with 200-300+ watts of power. Shimano realized not everyone met that criteria hence
the GRX series with 46/31 and 48/32 cranks for those of us with more modest capabilities. Haven't looked at BCD
but most of us would fiddle with the cassette to get the range desired between 31t and 36t cranks. Chainwheels are
probably around for chainwheels between 31-32 and 36 t but you have to go to specialty (and frequently $$) makers
to find them.

I had 46/34 on a 9000 DA crank......rotor rings. I did not like it and reverted back to normal ratio. I believe shimano made a 46 for cross.

46-32T 2x11 crankset Shimano Metrea FC-U5000-2

If you can get the 46/36 Ultegra, just buy a 34t ring for it. Not expensive and it will work well. Personally, I like a 46/34. I'm using a CX70 46t ring on a 10 speed Ultegra crank. Would have been less expensive to go the other way but it's what I had. As others have mentioned, the 46/36 is the traditional CX gearing. They don't need the extremes of 50 or 34 and the smaller 10t drop is more forgiving in muck, less likely to drop a chain. In theory, anyway..

Oh, didn't know this one even existed ... it looks and spec says it's heavy. I like the looks (already can feel the audience judging me), but ... I think this would be the same compatibility issue like road and GRX that the chainlines will be different and thus FDs ...

it is heavy, but unlike grx it has road chain line it is officially compatible with other road fd (link)
is will be discontinued, so it is not a long term solution, but it can be found on sale

I prefer a little wider range on my crankset, especially as one can have 10s, 11s, and now 12s in the rear.

I presume one of the reasons not to go too small with the sprockets on the crankset is the HUGE sprockets on the rear. 34T in the "road" groupset? :eek:

But, of course, what one loses with those pie plate cassettes is the tight range gearing. Single tooth jumps?

Why don't you just get the FC-460?

Thanks! That's neat. I had always manually searched in those PDFs ... learned something today :D

Because I'm almost afraid to ask here what's the pitch difference (or what to call it) in 2x10 and 2x11 FC ... if only these were somewhere specified ... as in .. chainrings are thinner ... or they are the same but more densely spaced. I had no difficulties using 10sp FCs with 9sp drivetrains but I always said to myself there's zero chance the chain can get stuck inbetween the chainrings because after all the chain plates were thicker than the FC was specced for. I have no experience the other way.

Isn't your bike Claris 8 speed? The 10 speed crank would be a better match.:foo:

Shelby no, I have to work on other people's bikes as they recognized my competence which I owe to these forum's warriors. And this Ultegra is for the bike with the spoon brake upgrade scheduled.

There is none. They are 100% compatible. The pitch is the same on all drivetrains, all speeds. The only difference is 1/8" (track/bmx) and 3/32" (road/mtb).

Are you sure? I mean the chains were getting narrower ever since ... 7-speed? The FCs are marketed (I understand that may be marketing only) as if it mattered ... e.g. 2x10, 3x11, etc ...

They've been narrowing the external width of the chains, peening rivets, etc. But the internal width is largely still 3/32, or perhaps 11/128". What an odd size... :foo:

https://bike.bikegremlin.com/1220/1-...compatibility/

So, your 11 speed chains will largely be happy with 9 or 10 speed chainrings. But, you do run a small risk of dropping the chain between chainrings.

They did thin the rear sprockets slightly. That may well help pack the sprockets tighter together.

You can buy a Shimano 11 speed 34T chain ring for less than $19 usd with shipping. A bit more of a search and you may find one less than that.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/203590514773
https://www.ebay.com/itm/203692535112?

I live in the flatlands of south-coastal Delaware and a 34t ring is too low. A 36 is much better for me. I would change the big ring on my 105 7000 to 48T, if they were readily available and not so expensive.

I am quite sure. The inner width of all 3/32" chains is...you guessed it...3/32". The plates have gotten thinner, not the amount of space in the middle of the chain.

How much money are you willing to spend?

WI and TA will have cranks with any chainring you want but neither are a cheap upgrade

Interesting. So I went to google the WI and TA, I think the whole crankarms will blow the budget for this one, but what seems to be interesting - I am in Europe - TA seem to be selling individual chainrings that match Shimano specs, all kinds and they are not crazy cost. I just wonder if there's any actual benefit in having a chainring from a "specialty" manufacturer ... as in longevity or shifting ... can anyone really compare well?

TA chainrings last and last and last and....Shimano not so much below DA.....and little choice in tooth counts

Yes.

You’re not the first to swap chainrings and won’t be the last.

John