broke my non-replaceable rear derailleur hanger - options?
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broke my non-replaceable rear derailleur hanger - options?
Hi all, while trying to align a non-replaceable rear derailleur hanger, I cracked it. Embarrassing!
I was repairing an older Schwinn cruiser. It's a cool bike that someone will enjoy.
I'm told I should convert from 7 speed to single speed, since the new hangar might not cover all cogs. I don't really understand this. And, I'm unclear of the steps to install a new hanger.
I need help researching a replacement hangar and freewheel if converting to single speed is the best approach.
What are my options to save this cruiser?
Thanks in advance.
I was repairing an older Schwinn cruiser. It's a cool bike that someone will enjoy.
I'm told I should convert from 7 speed to single speed, since the new hangar might not cover all cogs. I don't really understand this. And, I'm unclear of the steps to install a new hanger.
I need help researching a replacement hangar and freewheel if converting to single speed is the best approach.
What are my options to save this cruiser?
Thanks in advance.
#2
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I have an old aluminum Specialized Stumpjumper I saved, the hanger was completely ripped off by someone. I'm using one of these Shimano Hone derailleurs, it mounts on the hub axle: https://www.ebay.com/itm/20295210599...cAAOSwTAheg3Gr
You need the hub, or at least the axle to transplant into another Shimano hub. Oddly the derailleurs are very common but the hubs are hard to find. Also requires a axle slot that's mostly intact and oriented correctly to locate the derailleur.
This is the more basic axle mounted derailleur option, called a claw mount: https://www.ebay.com/itm/11469430001...Cclp%3A2047675
Might not work with a cruiser frame, often they have an odd dropout. Try to post a picture if you get the post count to ten.
Double edit: Actually the claw mount might not work on that.
You need the hub, or at least the axle to transplant into another Shimano hub. Oddly the derailleurs are very common but the hubs are hard to find. Also requires a axle slot that's mostly intact and oriented correctly to locate the derailleur.
This is the more basic axle mounted derailleur option, called a claw mount: https://www.ebay.com/itm/11469430001...Cclp%3A2047675
Might not work with a cruiser frame, often they have an odd dropout. Try to post a picture if you get the post count to ten.
Double edit: Actually the claw mount might not work on that.
Last edited by wesmamyke; 04-28-22 at 01:08 AM.
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Schwinn cruiser. Go to a motorcycle repair shop, have them weld it and run a M10 x 1.0 tap through after to clean the threads up
Or get it welded and install a dropout saver
https://wheelsmfg.com/presses-tools/dropout-savers.html
Or get it welded and install a dropout saver
https://wheelsmfg.com/presses-tools/dropout-savers.html
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Hi all, while trying to align a non-replaceable rear derailleur hanger, I cracked it. Embarrassing!
I was repairing an older Schwinn cruiser. It's a cool bike that someone will enjoy.
I'm told I should convert from 7 speed to single speed, since the new hangar might not cover all cogs. I don't really understand this. And, I'm unclear of the steps to install a new hanger.
I need help researching a replacement hangar and freewheel if converting to single speed is the best approach.
What are my options to save this cruiser?
Thanks in advance.
I was repairing an older Schwinn cruiser. It's a cool bike that someone will enjoy.
I'm told I should convert from 7 speed to single speed, since the new hangar might not cover all cogs. I don't really understand this. And, I'm unclear of the steps to install a new hanger.
I need help researching a replacement hangar and freewheel if converting to single speed is the best approach.
What are my options to save this cruiser?
Thanks in advance.
Does not make sense to me.
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If your cruiser has moreorless horizontal drop outs.
You may not need a new hub.
If you are willing to live with a chain on a single cog & be happy with it only on that one cog of the many then it is simple. Shorten the chain a few links to account for the non existent derailleur. Put the chain on the cog of choice, slide the wheel back until the chain is tight & retighten the axle nuts.
EDIT: If you have vertical dropouts & can't slide the axle back & forth, but do have a selection of chainrings /cogs around you can install a "ghost ring" to take up the slack. It looks hack-y but, ghost rings work.
Double EDIT: Any frame builder should be able to weld on a replacement. They often have a $100 or similar minimum labor charge.
You may not need a new hub.
If you are willing to live with a chain on a single cog & be happy with it only on that one cog of the many then it is simple. Shorten the chain a few links to account for the non existent derailleur. Put the chain on the cog of choice, slide the wheel back until the chain is tight & retighten the axle nuts.
EDIT: If you have vertical dropouts & can't slide the axle back & forth, but do have a selection of chainrings /cogs around you can install a "ghost ring" to take up the slack. It looks hack-y but, ghost rings work.
Double EDIT: Any frame builder should be able to weld on a replacement. They often have a $100 or similar minimum labor charge.
Last edited by base2; 04-28-22 at 08:55 AM.
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If your cruiser has moreorless horizontal drop outs.
You may not need a new hub.
If you are willing to live with a chain on a single cog & be happy with it only on that one cog of the many then it is simple. Shorten the chain a few links to account for the non existent derailleur. Put the chain on the cog of choice, slide the wheel back until the chain is tight & retighten the axle nuts.
You may not need a new hub.
If you are willing to live with a chain on a single cog & be happy with it only on that one cog of the many then it is simple. Shorten the chain a few links to account for the non existent derailleur. Put the chain on the cog of choice, slide the wheel back until the chain is tight & retighten the axle nuts.
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If your cruiser has moreorless horizontal drop outs.
You may not need a new hub.
If you are willing to live with a chain on a single cog & be happy with it only on that one cog of the many then it is simple. Shorten the chain a few links to account for the non existent derailleur. Put the chain on the cog of choice, slide the wheel back until the chain is tight & retighten the axle nuts.
...
You may not need a new hub.
If you are willing to live with a chain on a single cog & be happy with it only on that one cog of the many then it is simple. Shorten the chain a few links to account for the non existent derailleur. Put the chain on the cog of choice, slide the wheel back until the chain is tight & retighten the axle nuts.
...
So, careful, OP. You are treading dangerous ground.
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If your cruiser has moreorless horizontal drop outs.
You may not need a new hub.
If you are willing to live with a chain on a single cog & be happy with it only on that one cog of the many then it is simple. Shorten the chain a few links to account for the non existent derailleur. Put the chain on the cog of choice, slide the wheel back until the chain is tight & retighten the axle nuts.
EDIT: If you have vertical dropouts & can't slide the axle back & forth, but do have a selection of chainrings /cogs around you can install a "ghost ring" to take up the slack. It looks hack-y but, ghost rings work.
Double EDIT: Any frame builder should be able to weld on a replacement. They often have a $100 or similar minimum labor charge.
You may not need a new hub.
If you are willing to live with a chain on a single cog & be happy with it only on that one cog of the many then it is simple. Shorten the chain a few links to account for the non existent derailleur. Put the chain on the cog of choice, slide the wheel back until the chain is tight & retighten the axle nuts.
EDIT: If you have vertical dropouts & can't slide the axle back & forth, but do have a selection of chainrings /cogs around you can install a "ghost ring" to take up the slack. It looks hack-y but, ghost rings work.
Double EDIT: Any frame builder should be able to weld on a replacement. They often have a $100 or similar minimum labor charge.
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(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or whole biked 57,58)
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dedhed He didn't ask about the bikes value. He asked how to fix it. If we define "fix" as the bicycle being returned to a functional state fit for use as a bicycle, then you will see that useful commentary has been given.
squirtdad If there isn't enough slack to allow the chain to get over the gear teeth & the chain line is reasonably straight like it would be in the middle 1/3rd of the cassette, the ramps/pins/other shifting helper features will never come in to play. Chain angle more than anything else is what initiates shifting. It's a hack, of course, & it can be mitigated by chainring selection of up or down 1 or 2 teeth or possibly in combination with the addition of a half-link to fine tune the available slack with the chosen cog, but it does work. Sheldon Brown even did an article on it. It's under the "Sheldon's Kludges" heading.
squirtdad If there isn't enough slack to allow the chain to get over the gear teeth & the chain line is reasonably straight like it would be in the middle 1/3rd of the cassette, the ramps/pins/other shifting helper features will never come in to play. Chain angle more than anything else is what initiates shifting. It's a hack, of course, & it can be mitigated by chainring selection of up or down 1 or 2 teeth or possibly in combination with the addition of a half-link to fine tune the available slack with the chosen cog, but it does work. Sheldon Brown even did an article on it. It's under the "Sheldon's Kludges" heading.
Last edited by base2; 04-28-22 at 11:11 AM.
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dedhed He didn't ask about the bikes value. He asked how to fix it. If we define "fix" as the bicycle being returned to a functional state fit for use as a bicycle, then you will see that useful commentary has been given.
squirtdad If there isn't enough slack to allow the chain to get over the gear teeth & the chain line is reasonably straight like it would be in the middle 1/3rd of the cassette, the ramps/pins/other shifting helper features will never come in to play. Chain angle more than anything else is what initiates shifting. It's a hack, of course, & it can be mitigated by chainring selection of up or down 1 or 2 teeth or possibly in combination with the addition of a half-link to fine tune the available slack with the chosen cog, but it does work. Sheldon Brown even did an article on it. It's under the "Sheldon's Kludges" heading.
squirtdad If there isn't enough slack to allow the chain to get over the gear teeth & the chain line is reasonably straight like it would be in the middle 1/3rd of the cassette, the ramps/pins/other shifting helper features will never come in to play. Chain angle more than anything else is what initiates shifting. It's a hack, of course, & it can be mitigated by chainring selection of up or down 1 or 2 teeth or possibly in combination with the addition of a half-link to fine tune the available slack with the chosen cog, but it does work. Sheldon Brown even did an article on it. It's under the "Sheldon's Kludges" heading.
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(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or whole biked 57,58)
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Thanks all to responded with solutions. I went with the single speed option.
A single cog in back, with spacers to align to modified chain. Keeping the chain aligned to ring and cog and rim aligned to the frame is key to success.
We think we avoided a chain tensioner. We were about to install it to the frame bolt, assuming we could find a long enough QR bolt. We'll do this if we get a complaint about dropped chain.
Welding the hangar was considered. I found someone who would do it for $40. Would need to have cleaned the threads and fixed paint if that matters. This option would have kept the 7 speed, which is optimal. But, this bike is a give away or used to raise money for charity, Low cost and quick turn around is important.
Thanks again forum-ers.
A single cog in back, with spacers to align to modified chain. Keeping the chain aligned to ring and cog and rim aligned to the frame is key to success.
We think we avoided a chain tensioner. We were about to install it to the frame bolt, assuming we could find a long enough QR bolt. We'll do this if we get a complaint about dropped chain.
Welding the hangar was considered. I found someone who would do it for $40. Would need to have cleaned the threads and fixed paint if that matters. This option would have kept the 7 speed, which is optimal. But, this bike is a give away or used to raise money for charity, Low cost and quick turn around is important.
Thanks again forum-ers.
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I didn't know what the ghost ring was until my favorite LBS tech was showing off. A very cool solution, but, got voted down by "less forward thinking"
mechanics. This bike will go to someone who likely wouldn't know what to do if it fell off.
"If you have vertical dropouts & can't slide the axle back & forth, but do have a selection of chainrings /cogs around you can install a "ghost ring" to take up the slack. It looks hack-y but, ghost rings work."

"If you have vertical dropouts & can't slide the axle back & forth, but do have a selection of chainrings /cogs around you can install a "ghost ring" to take up the slack. It looks hack-y but, ghost rings work."
Last edited by bike_forum_geek; 05-05-22 at 08:48 AM.
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By the way, if you really want to be a moderator, you should volunteer. I'm sure they could use your help.
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"I was repairing an older Schwinn cruiser. It's a cool bike that someone will enjoy."
Clearly not the op's bike, and cost to repair vs value of bike is a very legitimate concern as to direction repair proceeds.
#23
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I'm not sure of the angle of your drop out but you could consider this solution: https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Compa...ps%2C89&sr=8-8 .
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#25
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Would something like this replacement hanger work ?
https://www.amazon.com/AUTUT-Univers...58306047&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/AUTUT-Univers...58306047&psc=1
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Last edited by Homebrew01; 05-07-22 at 01:45 PM.