Chain wound up on outside of frame.
#51
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#52
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I think I smell a sock. Could be wrong. Just sayin'.
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Good reason to just buy simple, common tools like this locally. Why wait for Amazon to ship when every bike shop in the world has a chain tool, and they're not expensive enough that Amazon would save you meaningful money.
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Yeah, I know, and I get that. But in spite of all the good-natured forum members posting explanations, diagrams, and videos, the chain is still jacked, the drivetrain is in pieces, and the bike's on the floor. If the OP has "no idea what [he's] doing with bike repairs," he should recognize when he's bitten off more than he can chew.
Bike shops exist for a reason, and a worthy mechanic can show the OP firsthand what's going on and how it's supposed to work. It doesn't have to be a struggle.
Bike shops exist for a reason, and a worthy mechanic can show the OP firsthand what's going on and how it's supposed to work. It doesn't have to be a struggle.
I find it nearly impossible in a reasonable amount of time to give meaningful written instructions to anything but the most simple procedures. It almost always is good advice to do a web search for Park Tool videos on the subject at hand or take to a local shop or co-op. In the old days, you'd buy a book like Glenn's and figure it out.
Last edited by Camilo; 05-12-22 at 01:03 AM.
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It would be helpful if newbies were allowed to post one picture their first posts. Then when they come for help they get it and stay.
Then more eyes on the ads.
Then more eyes on the ads.
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At least the chain isn't wound up inside the frame. That would be a real problem.
#57
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A bit late, but:
Did you unbolt the rear derailleur from the frame, or disassemble the pulley arm? Because the chain around the front derailleur is reversed. (And the rear derailleur looks like it's not bolted down into the correct location.)
Either from removing and re-linking the chain wrong (but you didn't do anything with the chain?)
Or from taking the rear derailleur off and flipping it over 360 degrees.
The photo, rotated.
The green arrow points to the part of the chain that should go from the bottom of the front chainring to the bottom of the rear derailleur, around it's bottom pulley.
The red arrowpoints to the part that should wrap around the back and top of the cassette, not under the cassette like it is now.
But the way it's configured now, it can't go around the chain ring. You probably need to unbolt the rear derailleur from the frame, then flip it upside down, and flip again. Then rebolt to the frame.
Or: cut the chain with a chain tool and reattach it correctly after mounting all the bike components correctly.
Did you unbolt the rear derailleur from the frame, or disassemble the pulley arm? Because the chain around the front derailleur is reversed. (And the rear derailleur looks like it's not bolted down into the correct location.)
Either from removing and re-linking the chain wrong (but you didn't do anything with the chain?)
Or from taking the rear derailleur off and flipping it over 360 degrees.
The photo, rotated.
The green arrow points to the part of the chain that should go from the bottom of the front chainring to the bottom of the rear derailleur, around it's bottom pulley.
The red arrowpoints to the part that should wrap around the back and top of the cassette, not under the cassette like it is now.
But the way it's configured now, it can't go around the chain ring. You probably need to unbolt the rear derailleur from the frame, then flip it upside down, and flip again. Then rebolt to the frame.
Or: cut the chain with a chain tool and reattach it correctly after mounting all the bike components correctly.
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I consider myself a pretty good writer, as well as a pretty good mechanic. But even explaining in writing something as simple as changing out a floor pump chuck has been daunting to me.
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A bit late, but:
Did you unbolt the rear derailleur from the frame, or disassemble the pulley arm? Because the chain around the front derailleur is reversed. (And the rear derailleur looks like it's not bolted down into the correct location.)
Either from removing and re-linking the chain wrong (but you didn't do anything with the chain?)
Or from taking the rear derailleur off and flipping it over 360 degrees.
The photo, rotated.
The green arrow points to the part of the chain that should go from the bottom of the front chainring to the bottom of the rear derailleur, around it's bottom pulley.
The red arrowpoints to the part that should wrap around the back and top of the cassette, not under the cassette like it is now.
But the way it's configured now, it can't go around the chain ring. You probably need to unbolt the rear derailleur from the frame, then flip it upside down, and flip again. Then rebolt to the frame.
Or: cut the chain with a chain tool and reattach it correctly after mounting all the bike components correctly.
Did you unbolt the rear derailleur from the frame, or disassemble the pulley arm? Because the chain around the front derailleur is reversed. (And the rear derailleur looks like it's not bolted down into the correct location.)
Either from removing and re-linking the chain wrong (but you didn't do anything with the chain?)
Or from taking the rear derailleur off and flipping it over 360 degrees.
The photo, rotated.
The green arrow points to the part of the chain that should go from the bottom of the front chainring to the bottom of the rear derailleur, around it's bottom pulley.
The red arrowpoints to the part that should wrap around the back and top of the cassette, not under the cassette like it is now.
But the way it's configured now, it can't go around the chain ring. You probably need to unbolt the rear derailleur from the frame, then flip it upside down, and flip again. Then rebolt to the frame.
Or: cut the chain with a chain tool and reattach it correctly after mounting all the bike components correctly.
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Easiest way I can see to do this is to unbolt the 2 bolts holding the rear derailleur cage/pulley wheels. Remember which pulley goes on which end and same for the bolts if they are different and remember which orientation the removed cage piece is mounted. With that removed you can flip the chain over. Install the wheel with the top of the chain running on top of the cassette cog. For easier optics, rotate the pulley cage counter clockwise until the small pulley end is in the lower position and use a string or zip tie, etc. to hold it there. This makes it much easier to see the final routing as you're putting it together. Now install the upper (larger) pulley with the chain routed in front of it. Then route the chain around the back of the lower pulley and bolt the cage/pulley also making sure that the chain is routed inside any tabs on the cage. Refer to the posted diagrams above if in doubt about your routing. Done. Extra points for cleaning the parts while they're disassembled.
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The problem is that the chain is upside down - the part of the chain that is up by the seatstay up by the brake should be the bottom run of the chain. I bet if you could pull the bit that is through the rear derailleur straight between the jockey wheels, you could flip the whole thing over so the bottom run is on the bottom through the derailleur and the top run can run over the top of the cassette. It might be helpful to remove the front part of the chain from the front derailleur to give you more room to work.
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The chain is looped. It is hard to discern in the picture but the part of the chain that is nearest the floor (red arrow) is the return from the chainring to the lower jockey wheel. The lower jockey wheel is nearest the floor.
Solution is to move the chain in nearest the floor (red arrow) past the other part (green arrow) and over the RD. Everything will fall into place. No need to take anything apart.
If the picture were presented from the top, you would see the portion of the chain (red arrow) is further from the frame center line than the other portion (green arrow). The RD cage needs to be rotated 180* at some point.
Solution is to move the chain in nearest the floor (red arrow) past the other part (green arrow) and over the RD. Everything will fall into place. No need to take anything apart.
If the picture were presented from the top, you would see the portion of the chain (red arrow) is further from the frame center line than the other portion (green arrow). The RD cage needs to be rotated 180* at some point.
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Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
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Solved
Success!
Went to a bike shop, they said 1.5 week wait, I said screw that im fixing it myself. The key was to take my wife's bike, which is the same make/model as mine, just the female version, instead of my other bike, and sit her bike upsdie down right behind my bike upside down. (I work on bikes upside down because I don't have a bike mechanic stand). This way, I could look at both simulataneously, instead of turning my head back and forth, and forgetting what the other bike looked like immediately. I also had to wait till I wasn't brain fogged either. It really came down to the rear derailer being all coiled shut instead of sprung open like it should be.
Procedure on how I fixed it:
First I put the crankset back on
Then I pulled open the rear derailer and the chain magically untangled and gave me enough slack to put the chain over the pedal crank arm and onto the chainwheel.
then, with the rear derailer still held open, i put the rear wheel back on, and the front derailer back into position and it just worked.
Went to a bike shop, they said 1.5 week wait, I said screw that im fixing it myself. The key was to take my wife's bike, which is the same make/model as mine, just the female version, instead of my other bike, and sit her bike upsdie down right behind my bike upside down. (I work on bikes upside down because I don't have a bike mechanic stand). This way, I could look at both simulataneously, instead of turning my head back and forth, and forgetting what the other bike looked like immediately. I also had to wait till I wasn't brain fogged either. It really came down to the rear derailer being all coiled shut instead of sprung open like it should be.
Procedure on how I fixed it:
First I put the crankset back on
Then I pulled open the rear derailer and the chain magically untangled and gave me enough slack to put the chain over the pedal crank arm and onto the chainwheel.
then, with the rear derailer still held open, i put the rear wheel back on, and the front derailer back into position and it just worked.
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#64
Really Old Senior Member
Success!
Went to a bike shop, they said 1.5 week wait, I said screw that im fixing it myself. The key was to take my wife's bike, which is the same make/model as mine, just the female version, instead of my other bike, and sit her bike upsdie down right behind my bike upside down. (I work on bikes upside down because I don't have a bike mechanic stand). This way, I could look at both simulataneously, instead of turning my head back and forth, and forgetting what the other bike looked like immediately. I also had to wait till I wasn't brain fogged either. It really came down to the rear derailer being all coiled shut instead of sprung open like it should be.
Procedure on how I fixed it:
First I put the crankset back on
Then I pulled open the rear derailer and the chain magically untangled and gave me enough slack to put the chain over the pedal crank arm and onto the chainwheel.
then, with the rear derailer still held open, i put the rear wheel back on, and the front derailer back into position and it just worked.
Went to a bike shop, they said 1.5 week wait, I said screw that im fixing it myself. The key was to take my wife's bike, which is the same make/model as mine, just the female version, instead of my other bike, and sit her bike upsdie down right behind my bike upside down. (I work on bikes upside down because I don't have a bike mechanic stand). This way, I could look at both simulataneously, instead of turning my head back and forth, and forgetting what the other bike looked like immediately. I also had to wait till I wasn't brain fogged either. It really came down to the rear derailer being all coiled shut instead of sprung open like it should be.
Procedure on how I fixed it:
First I put the crankset back on
Then I pulled open the rear derailer and the chain magically untangled and gave me enough slack to put the chain over the pedal crank arm and onto the chainwheel.
then, with the rear derailer still held open, i put the rear wheel back on, and the front derailer back into position and it just worked.
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Congratulations! Glad you were able to figure it out.
Now, about your stripped crankarm problem...
Now, about your stripped crankarm problem...
#66
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Likely faster shipping could have made a bigger mess when at most he needed to remove the rear derailleur jockey pulley wheels and flip the chain down and pull the derailleur cage around.
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Success!
Went to a bike shop, they said 1.5 week wait, I said screw that im fixing it myself. The key was to take my wife's bike, which is the same make/model as mine, just the female version, instead of my other bike, and sit her bike upsdie down right behind my bike upside down. (I work on bikes upside down because I don't have a bike mechanic stand). This way, I could look at both simulataneously, instead of turning my head back and forth, and forgetting what the other bike looked like immediately. I also had to wait till I wasn't brain fogged either. It really came down to the rear derailer being all coiled shut instead of sprung open like it should be.
Procedure on how I fixed it:
First I put the crankset back on
Then I pulled open the rear derailer and the chain magically untangled and gave me enough slack to put the chain over the pedal crank arm and onto the chainwheel.
then, with the rear derailer still held open, i put the rear wheel back on, and the front derailer back into position and it just worked.
Went to a bike shop, they said 1.5 week wait, I said screw that im fixing it myself. The key was to take my wife's bike, which is the same make/model as mine, just the female version, instead of my other bike, and sit her bike upsdie down right behind my bike upside down. (I work on bikes upside down because I don't have a bike mechanic stand). This way, I could look at both simulataneously, instead of turning my head back and forth, and forgetting what the other bike looked like immediately. I also had to wait till I wasn't brain fogged either. It really came down to the rear derailer being all coiled shut instead of sprung open like it should be.
Procedure on how I fixed it:
First I put the crankset back on
Then I pulled open the rear derailer and the chain magically untangled and gave me enough slack to put the chain over the pedal crank arm and onto the chainwheel.
then, with the rear derailer still held open, i put the rear wheel back on, and the front derailer back into position and it just worked.
also now your on your way to being self sufficient.
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