Cross Levers on Bullhorns: was this silly of me before I tape it?
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Cross Levers on Bullhorns: was this silly of me before I tape it?
I got a new bike and will mainly be using it as a commuter in NYC.
Got new handlebars, but it tapers pretty quickly after the stem from 31.8mm to 26mm; otherwise I probably would've gotten 31.8mm cross levers to put closer to the stem because now it seems like the tape won't be able to get very far past the bend. Thoughts?
Got new handlebars, but it tapers pretty quickly after the stem from 31.8mm to 26mm; otherwise I probably would've gotten 31.8mm cross levers to put closer to the stem because now it seems like the tape won't be able to get very far past the bend. Thoughts?

Last edited by CyJackX; 05-12-22 at 11:47 AM.
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IMO, that's not as optimal a placement as having them closer to the stem, since your hands will be on the curves in order to use them, and you'll lose much the "tops" hand position because the clamps are in the way. It might feel fine to you, though. Take it for a spin before you tape them.
I rarely tape my bars much closer to to the stem than where the inside edge of the clamps sit. From the pic, it appears that the front lever could be pushed a little further inboard.
I rarely tape my bars much closer to to the stem than where the inside edge of the clamps sit. From the pic, it appears that the front lever could be pushed a little further inboard.
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Yeah, it actually didn't feel too bad after taking it for a spin since my hands sit closer to the curve. The part that the levers are once everything's flush at 26mm; I could open them up a hair and scooch them closer but then they're only catching on the inner edge? idk if there's some sort of lop sided shim what I could put inside besides tightening it down.
Last edited by CyJackX; 05-12-22 at 02:04 PM.
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I would definitely want full contact between the brake lever clamp and the bar, even if clamping them to the 26mm diameter places them further outboard. I don't know of any conical shim that would work. Personally I'd trade them in for 31.8 versions (or not use them at all), but if they aren't uncomfortable and they aren't robbing you of a hand position, you're good to go.
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Or you could get the correct levers.
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Couldn't the levers be flipped so the clamp toward the bend and the levers towards the stem? then the clamps would be in full contact with the bars and the handles would be closer to the stem.
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I was thinking that the cable would be removed and reinserted after levers were flipped around.
Please correct me if I am wrong.
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I'm missing something here, Why would there be a weird loop in the cable? aren't the interrupter levers designed to have the same sized cable housing come in from each side?
I was thinking that the cable would be removed and reinserted after levers were flipped around.
Please correct me if I am wrong.
I was thinking that the cable would be removed and reinserted after levers were flipped around.
Please correct me if I am wrong.
I guess you could run that stretch outside of the bar tape so that it could move when you pulled the lever, but it would be hard to do that and still be able to grab the bar with your hand between the levers.
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You're right that the housing is the same on both sides, but they're directional in the sense that the housing must be mobile on one side and can be stationary on the other. Assuming the housing coming from the main lever is under the bar tape, it has to be stationary, so it would have to enter on the side the interrupter lever is pointing towards.
I guess you could run that stretch outside of the bar tape so that it could move when you pulled the lever, but it would be hard to do that and still be able to grab the bar with your hand between the levers.
I guess you could run that stretch outside of the bar tape so that it could move when you pulled the lever, but it would be hard to do that and still be able to grab the bar with your hand between the levers.