Determining chain length when going beyond recommended Chain Wrap
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Southern California
Posts: 1,028
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 478 Post(s)
Liked 240 Times
in
151 Posts
Determining chain length when going beyond recommended Chain Wrap
It seems that this should be simple, but I wanted to make sure before I break my chain to the proper length.
I have a rear derailleur that can wrap 36t (suntour Vx-GT). I am planning to change my gearing that would require a derailleur that can wrap 38t.
In order to make sure my chain isn't too long, instead of using the technique of subtracting two links from the length of a chain wrapped around the big ring and big cog, I should instead wrap the chain around the big ring and second largest cog and subtract two. Right?
If it helps, my gearing is: 52/42/28, 14-28 (14/16/18/21/24/28).
Thanks! And it goes without saying that I know not to shift into the big/big or small/small.
I have a rear derailleur that can wrap 36t (suntour Vx-GT). I am planning to change my gearing that would require a derailleur that can wrap 38t.
In order to make sure my chain isn't too long, instead of using the technique of subtracting two links from the length of a chain wrapped around the big ring and big cog, I should instead wrap the chain around the big ring and second largest cog and subtract two. Right?
If it helps, my gearing is: 52/42/28, 14-28 (14/16/18/21/24/28).
Thanks! And it goes without saying that I know not to shift into the big/big or small/small.
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,548
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1973 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 984 Times
in
679 Posts
No, do NOT make the chain shorter than required to wrap big-big. If it's too long for the rd to wrap up the total teeth then avoid small-small. BTW, you do not subtract two links from the length needed to wrap big-big, you add two links (1 inch).
It is essential the chain allow you to shift into big-big. Yes, you know you shouldn't but some time somewhere you are going to forget and the resulting damage can be extensive and expensive.
It is essential the chain allow you to shift into big-big. Yes, you know you shouldn't but some time somewhere you are going to forget and the resulting damage can be extensive and expensive.
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Southern California
Posts: 1,028
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 478 Post(s)
Liked 240 Times
in
151 Posts
No, do NOT make the chain shorter than required to wrap big-big. If it's too long for the rd to wrap up the total teeth then avoid small-small. BTW, you do not subtract two links from the length needed to wrap big-big, you add two links (1 inch).
It is essential the chain allow you to shift into big-big. Yes, you know you shouldn't but some time somewhere you are going to forget and the resulting damage can be extensive and expensive.
It is essential the chain allow you to shift into big-big. Yes, you know you shouldn't but some time somewhere you are going to forget and the resulting damage can be extensive and expensive.
Okay, that sounds good. I'll set it up as normal, but just avoid small small. Thanks!
#4
Really Old Senior Member
Make sure you have SOME "slack" when on BIG:BIG.
This is how I check in situ.

I wouldn't settle for < 3/4" slack. You need a bit for the chain to come OFF the cog when shifting to the smaller.
You may not intend to shift BIG:BIG, but as Forest Gump says......
This is how I check in situ.

I wouldn't settle for < 3/4" slack. You need a bit for the chain to come OFF the cog when shifting to the smaller.
You may not intend to shift BIG:BIG, but as Forest Gump says......
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Jose (Willow Glen) Ca
Posts: 9,072
Bikes: 85 team Miyata (modern 5800 105) , '84 Team Miyata,(dura ace old school) 80?? SR Semi-Pro 600 Arabesque
Mentioned: 94 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1948 Post(s)
Liked 1,905 Times
in
1,106 Posts
I find small/small gives the max amount of chain
but you still need to make sure big/big works..... dangerous other wise
but you still need to make sure big/big works..... dangerous other wise
__________________
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or whole biked 57,58)
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or whole biked 57,58)
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 11,513
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
Mentioned: 119 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4001 Post(s)
Liked 2,885 Times
in
1,875 Posts
It seems that this should be simple, but I wanted to make sure before I break my chain to the proper length.
I have a rear derailleur that can wrap 36t (suntour Vx-GT). I am planning to change my gearing that would require a derailleur that can wrap 38t.
In order to make sure my chain isn't too long, instead of using the technique of subtracting two links from the length of a chain wrapped around the big ring and big cog, I should instead wrap the chain around the big ring and second largest cog and subtract two. Right?
If it helps, my gearing is: 52/42/28, 14-28 (14/16/18/21/24/28).
Thanks! And it goes without saying that I know not to shift into the big/big or small/small.
I have a rear derailleur that can wrap 36t (suntour Vx-GT). I am planning to change my gearing that would require a derailleur that can wrap 38t.
In order to make sure my chain isn't too long, instead of using the technique of subtracting two links from the length of a chain wrapped around the big ring and big cog, I should instead wrap the chain around the big ring and second largest cog and subtract two. Right?
If it helps, my gearing is: 52/42/28, 14-28 (14/16/18/21/24/28).
Thanks! And it goes without saying that I know not to shift into the big/big or small/small.
As for not using the big-big - I guess you do not share my love of storming up hills and rolling over the top racer-style and shifting up to get downhill speed quickly. I've pulled back the left lever many times in that frazzled state of mind. Two extra chain links seems an awfully cheap insurance against hundreds of $$s bike damage and the call of shame. Small-small rarely causes issues outside of unwanted shifts from chainring pins or teeth engaging and chain sag, marring chainstay finish. I do it regularly on short flats or downgrades on long climbs to save two double shifts. When setting up a new derailleur, I just make sure the small-small combo works. (On some of my pinned bikes, it simply doesn't unless I set the FD cage to drag on the outside plate while I ride.)
#7
Newbie
I use big-big plus 1 or 2 " (minimum 1 link pair). If the RD can cope with the wrap then small-small will be fine. RD wrap can be increased with larger jockey wheels, e.g., replacing 11t with an 12/14t combination (e.g., BBB SRAM) if the cage has space (RD-M95x series will wrap 53t and I think the spec is 43t). If using a double it is good to have small-small in the wrap range so all ratios can be used properly. With a triple middle-small should be in range, but in the small chainring no harm will occur if one or two (or three) of the smallest sprockets are beyond wrap range. I have found that with long cage RDs in big-big (used with a wide-range double) the tension jockey wheel can get noisy on the chain as the chain length to the chainwheel gets quite short and the angle quite large on the bottom chain run. This does improve as the jockey wheel teeth erode to fit the chain (avoid metal wheels).
#8
Senior Member
The small-small method gives the max amount of chain if the chain wrap is adequate. If not, and you size with the big-big method, the drivetrain will have enough chain that it's overly slack in small-small. But most people prefer this latter compromise... I remember one gravel ride where the rider said "I just won't use big-big" at the start, and jammed his drivetrain badly on the second steep ascent.
Likes For HTupolev:
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 3,767
Bikes: lots
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1954 Post(s)
Liked 2,925 Times
in
1,488 Posts
If you're going to exceed capacity ALWAYS make sure you have enough chain to go big/big otherwise you'll have big problems as HTupolev posted.