Play In Rear Hub
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 178
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 94 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 25 Times
in
16 Posts
Play In Rear Hub
This is an eight speed Deore hub.
I removed the cassette to adjust the cones.
This is the problem.
I can discern no play in the non drive side.
Yet the drive side has significant play.
The freehub also has some play.
I removed the cassette to adjust the cones.
This is the problem.
I can discern no play in the non drive side.
Yet the drive side has significant play.
The freehub also has some play.
#2
Señor Member
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 5,830
Bikes: Old school lightweights
Mentioned: 73 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2430 Post(s)
Liked 3,249 Times
in
1,753 Posts
#4
Blamester
Likes For blamester:
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 3,034
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 641 Post(s)
Liked 610 Times
in
464 Posts
As blamester mentioned, you have to take it apart in order to know what's going on. Wiggling things around won't give you, or us, any insight as to why it's loose. You may have a damaged bearing ball, pitted hub races and cones, needs a cleaning and lube, etc., etc.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Mission Viejo
Posts: 5,035
Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1648 Post(s)
Liked 1,679 Times
in
1,051 Posts
I guess the first question is did you try to put pressure on the end of the DS axle, or pull toward the NDS, to see if the play does move from DS to NDS. I've adjusted cones and find that sometimes I can feel play on one side, but if I try to put pressure the other way I can feel the play on the other side. The only word in your post that is concerning is the word significant.
I'm no freehub body assemble expert, but basically you have a inner core, with pawls, and an outer shell. A simplistic view the inner core gets attached to the hub, and the hub bearing cup is threaded tightly onto the inner core. The outer shell just rotates and any freehub body shell play doesn't impact the play in the hub bearings.
You can see in the image from Park Tool, the bearing cone threads onto the inner race/pawls core and is tightened against the adjustment washers:

If the freehub body is not firmly attached to the rear hub, there can be play. Or if the bearing race is not tight and it moves there can be play.
John
I'm no freehub body assemble expert, but basically you have a inner core, with pawls, and an outer shell. A simplistic view the inner core gets attached to the hub, and the hub bearing cup is threaded tightly onto the inner core. The outer shell just rotates and any freehub body shell play doesn't impact the play in the hub bearings.
You can see in the image from Park Tool, the bearing cone threads onto the inner race/pawls core and is tightened against the adjustment washers:

If the freehub body is not firmly attached to the rear hub, there can be play. Or if the bearing race is not tight and it moves there can be play.
John
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Golden, CO and Tucson, AZ
Posts: 2,505
Bikes: 2016 Fuji Tread, 1983 Trek 520
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 570 Post(s)
Liked 411 Times
in
281 Posts
If that freehub bolt was loose, you may still have problems. That shouldn't have happened, and it may be damaged. Keep a close eye on it. If it reoccurs and a new freehub and bolt doesn't fix it, the threads in the hub are damaged and you'll need a new hub or wheel.
The last time I needed to replace that style freehub, I bought a NOS hub pretty cheap on eBay and stripped it. If there's a bike co-op near you, you'll probably find salvaged parts there.
The last time I needed to replace that style freehub, I bought a NOS hub pretty cheap on eBay and stripped it. If there's a bike co-op near you, you'll probably find salvaged parts there.
#12
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 178
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 94 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 25 Times
in
16 Posts
If that freehub bolt was loose, you may still have problems. That shouldn't have happened, and it may be damaged. Keep a close eye on it. If it reoccurs and a new freehub and bolt doesn't fix it, the threads in the hub are damaged and you'll need a new hub or wheel.
The last time I needed to replace that style freehub, I bought a NOS hub pretty cheap on eBay and stripped it. If there's a bike co-op near you, you'll probably find salvaged parts there.
The last time I needed to replace that style freehub, I bought a NOS hub pretty cheap on eBay and stripped it. If there's a bike co-op near you, you'll probably find salvaged parts there.