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Noises from crank area

Old 07-05-22, 04:26 PM
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kap 7
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Noises from crank area

Bike is a 2012 (?) Trek fx series 7.1. I'll attach photo because can't remember exactly when bought.

While pedaling left pedal has a somewhat loud clicking noise once the pedal hits a certain spot. The right pedal has a quieter thud sound in a different spot.

So far it seems one side might be quiet or the other or both.
Bike has only been pavement ridden and very low mileage for its age ... Probably 500 mi.

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Old 07-05-22, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by kap 7 View Post
Bike is a 2012 (?) Trek fx series 7.1. I'll attach photo because can't remember exactly when bought.

While pedaling left pedal has a somewhat loud clicking noise once the pedal hits a certain spot. The right pedal has a quieter thud sound in a different spot.

So far it seems one side might be quiet or the other or both.
Bike has only been pavement ridden and very low mileage for its age ... Probably 500 mi.
It could be any number of things.It is fairly common to have clicking noises, but ticks and clicks are very hard to eliminate sometimes. What seems like it is tied to the pedals may be coming from the seat post, etc. Sometimes things like temperature and humidity can affect noises as well. Also, things like the front derailleur cage just hitting the crank, loose bottle cage bolts, or the front derailleur cable sticking out and hitting your shoe can seem like they are clicks but really aren't. Another thing to consider is that the frame and components are flexing from pedaling forces, and so you can get a click or creak sound where you think it couldn’t be – for example the seat post & clamp can make noise even when you are standing and pedaling due the frame flexing. Here’s a link if you don’t like reading the rest of this post: Bicycle Touring Tips, Lessons Learned, and Tricks of the Trade



Clicks tied to your pedaling can come from

- BB (grease all threads in contact with the frame and BB, all metal to metal contact surfaces, and torque to the recommended settings, which can be quite high), the faces of tapered BB axles if they have a little corrosion

- bolt holding the BB cable guide onto the frame (grease threads and make sure the bolt is not touching the BB shell inside the frame)

- BB cable guide (grease threads and tighten)

- crank bolts (grease threads and washers)

- chain ring bolts (take them all out and grease the threads, the faces where they contact the CRs, and the CRs where they contact the crank spider arms)

- a dirty chain, inadequately lubed chain, stiff link in a chain or a burr on one of the "break off" special links used to assemble the chain

- front derailleur clamp (clean and put a light film of grease on the inside of the clamp where it touches the seat tube)

- front derailleur cage hitting crank arm

- the pedals (grease the threads and the shoulders of the axle where it butts against the crank arm, get some wax, silicone etc. on the cleats, check for play in the bearings, squirt some lube into the guts of the pedal machinery if possible)

- shoes/cleats - loose cleat nut rattling around in the shoe sole, shoe/cleat interface, cleat bolts, cleats touching pedals (wax lube, silicone, or furniture polish)

- seat post and saddle (grease the post, seat post clamp, seat post bolts, saddle rails, and add some oil to where the rails go into the saddle body)

- bars and stem (grease the stem where it clamps to steerer or goes into the steerer if quill type, top cap, stem bolts at both ends, h'bar bolt if quill stem, and h'bar where it goes through the stem)

- grease/tighten QRs and where the hub axle contacts the frame

- tighten cassette lock ring, grease cassette hub body and cassette spacers

- grease steerer tube spacers (if threadless)

- replaceable derailleur hangers (remove, clean, grease all parts and threads, reassemble)

- any other bolt (bottle cages, derailleur clamps, derailleur bolts, shift cable casing stops, etc.)

- cables hitting the frame (cable donuts), or shifting in their end ferrules (lube contact points).

Wheels can make noises when pedaling or coasting (check for spoke tension, particularly on the rear non drive side, put a drop of lube where each pair of spokes cross and where each spoke enters the rim and the hub flange, check for loose metal bits or spoke nipples in the body of the rim and cracks in the rim at spoke holes.).
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Old 07-06-22, 09:32 AM
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Iride01
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Pretty much what was said in the first reply you got. If you can swap pedals with another bike, then try that too. Though usually clicks from the pedal are felt more so than heard. And usually when putting out a fair amount of power.

You should make certain everything is snug and secure on the crank and as much of the BB you can see. Shouldn't be any wobbles if you move the BB spindle sideways. (90° to it's axis)

Though I'd doubt your BB is the issue unless it was installed wrong. BB's should last a very long time. Few noises attributed to the BB actually come from the BB. IMO.

But don't let it bother you unless you have to have a stealth bike for some odd reason. Bikes are mechanical things with a chain driving them and there will be noises. Be patient and attentive. Eventually you'll find the clicks and it won't be any more money to fix it then than now. Might just find out that it's your shoe laces or a zipper tag on your bike bag hitting something.

Last edited by Iride01; 07-06-22 at 09:35 AM.
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