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Shimano roller brake replacement

Old 07-08-22, 12:09 PM
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Shimano roller brake replacement

I have a simple 3 speed bike with a Shimano roller brake. It's the black model with shiny metal outer cap, with out the visible cooling disk and looks very much like model BR-IM31-RF. Does anyone know of the newer models with the cooling disk will be an easy replacement on my bike that already has the older model? I think some models like the BR-C3010-RC and BR-C6000-RA are considered better by some. The brake on my bike works, needs regreasing, but I have not tried to open it yet. The one on my bike is fitted on the outer lefts side of the 3 speed hub. It looks like it is secured to the frame like a regular coaster brake lever. Anyone who has worked with these?

Last edited by Mickey2; 07-08-22 at 12:21 PM.
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Old 02-26-23, 06:00 AM
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Since I have ~ the same question, I'll bump old that six month old thread instead of creating a new one.

I'd like to replace a cheap IM45 with a stronger C6000. Problem is, the rear brake's reaction arm doesn't line up with the bike's base onto which it should be attached.

As shown, they had to pull the IM45's arm outwards, but it won't do on the C6000 because its metal's much harder.

Do you know of a contraption that could fill the gap?

Thank you.
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Old 02-26-23, 06:22 AM
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The Shimano roller brake is not supposed to be opened. It's internal components are not intended to be user serviceable.

There should be a small rubber plug on the casing. Remove that plug and using a plastic medication squirter type syringe found at many drugstores, inject Moly diSulfide grease in to the mechanism.

MOSII grease is often found at auto-part stores labeled "CV axle grease." No other type of grease is suitable. It must say MOS2, MOSII, Moly diSulfide, etc...Alternatively, you can just use the Shimano branded version.

The roller brakes are all effectively interchangeable so far as I know. They vary in capacity and capability, but the fitment is the same.

The uncomfortable part here is you waited until it needed to be re-greased. By the time it becomes obvious the mech needed grease, it may be too worn to provide much service life. Fortunately replacements are not expensive.

​​​​​​Edit: Winfried
Is there a reason a stack of washers or other suitable spacer and a longer bolt/nut wouldn't fill in the gap between the reaction arm and band? Or is the problem an interference & not a gap?

Last edited by base2; 02-26-23 at 06:29 AM.
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Old 02-26-23, 06:52 AM
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I haven't looked into it yet but the space to fill is probably too wide to solve the problem with just a washer to move the arm out, of if it's even possible:

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Old 02-26-23, 07:15 AM
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Maybe I am not understanding. As I see it, the new reaction arm does not bolt to the chainstay clamp cleanly because the clamp is too far away. Is that a correct assessment?
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Old 02-26-23, 07:18 AM
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Yes. The bike's base is too far to be bolted. They're not aligned.

As shown, the original brake had to be bent out, but that won't do with the new brake because it's made of stronger metal.

So I need to find a way to fill the gap and bolt the arm to the base.
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Old 02-26-23, 07:34 AM
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Then don't bend the arm to reach the chainstay clamp. Fill the gap with whatever number of 1mm washers needed and replace the bolt with one at least that number of millimeters of extra length.

It is not necessary to have the reaction arm completely encapsulated by the band.
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Old 02-26-23, 07:41 AM
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Thanks the idea. Considerig it's something like ~3cm/30mm, I'll try with a nut or tube instead of a pile of washers.

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Old 02-26-23, 10:58 PM
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There's a video showing how to take it apart. I did too. There's nothing complicated after you do it a couple times.
One of my clamp variations has a loose nut for a gap filler.
And anyway, they are total junk boat anchors.
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