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Heliomatic thread repair?

Old 07-29-22, 02:55 PM
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mrv 
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Heliomatic thread repair?

I was going to replace a chain and chainrings…. One thing leads to another….

Heliomatic hub threads won’t catch the lock nut when the freewheel is installed. The lock nut will run down by hand on the threads without the freewheel. So I think they are ok.

Is there an olde timey trick for repairing the hub? Or do I need to go in search of a replacement hub? …and rebuild the wheel….<crying emoji>
Like maybe a NOS Shimano…
Thanks.


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Old 07-29-22, 09:51 PM
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...the old timey trick with which I am familiar is to throw them away, and construct a wheel, using a better hub. But I would try a different locking ring on there, before I gave up on it. Those lockrings are pretty cheesy, and I would presume the threads inside that would give out before the ones on the freehub body. I've tried never to get emotionally attached to a Helicomatic hub, and it's worked, pretty much.
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Old 07-30-22, 04:50 AM
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Originally Posted by mrv View Post
Heliomatic [sic] hub threads won’t catch the lock nut when the freewheel is installed.
Are you talking about the Helicomatic lockring that holds the freewheel on?

Did this exact pair (hub and freewheel) work before you disassembled it?
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Old 07-30-22, 05:34 AM
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It looks like the outermost lockring threads on the hub are worn away, leaving only the innermost threads to engage the lockring. When the freewheel is installed, the lockring cannot thread far enough to engage the undamaged threads.

There is no easy fix for this. You could use JB Weld or bearing seating compound to secure the lockring in place, but that could make removing the freewheel difficult or impossible. Consider replacing the wheel.
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Old 07-30-22, 06:39 AM
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In the last five years I've rebuilt two 1983 Treks that came with Helicomatics. A different set of wheels was my first task on both.

Hang on to the bottle opener, though. It much classier than the one that comes in the Park tool kits.
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Old 07-30-22, 09:05 AM
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Sure looks like the threads on the Helicomatic hub are stripped/worn away. Can't imagine the lock ring in much better, looks like time for a new hub set up to me.
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Old 07-30-22, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Steelman54 View Post
Sure looks like the threads on the Helicomatic hub are stripped/worn away. Can't imagine the lock ring in much better, looks like time for a new hub set up to me.
Yup, fully agree! While lots of issues are “fixable” on older bikes (even French ones ) this doesn’t look like one of them. I would however, totally disassemble the entire wheel, saving the rim, spokes, axle (& even the bearings) before tossing the hub in the recycle bin! If fortunate enough to find a hub with the same dimensions, it would just be a matter of relacing it to the OEM rim with the OEM spokes. If that’s the plan, remember the spokes on the drive side are slightly shorter than those on the Non-drive side.
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Old 07-30-22, 01:15 PM
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Thanks everybody! I was afraid a new hub was the way I was going to have to go.
Probably (more than a 50% chance) - I will go this way: https://velo-orange.com/collections/...heel-hub-126mm

Or I'll look for a deal on eBay: maybe make an offer on this - love me some DuraAce!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/16556616419...cab8%7Ciid%3A1
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Old 07-30-22, 02:04 PM
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I still don't understand why the lockring will thread on without the freewheel in place. I would keep trying.

Originally Posted by sovende View Post
If fortunate enough to find a hub with the same dimensions, it would just be a matter of relacing it to the OEM rim with the OEM spokes.
That's the way to go for a budget build. Just look for a similar Maillard (non-Helicomatic) hub. I'd ask in the c&v "ISO" sticky thread.
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Old 07-30-22, 08:38 PM
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100% would not go Uniglide, a standard freewheel would work and the VO would probably be a good option if you didn't want to go Phil Wood or say a vintage Dura Ace 7400. You might also find a slightly more modern freehub and swap out the Uniglide freehub for a Hyperglide and since the system you have is likely friction you can run a more modern 7 or maybe 8 speed cassette.or possibly higher.
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Old 07-31-22, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by SurferRosa View Post
I still don't understand why the lockring will thread on without the freewheel in place.
Because only the outermost threads are damaged. Once the freewheel is installed, the undamaged threads are covered by the freewheel body, and the lockring can't engage them.
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Old 07-31-22, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson View Post
only the outermost threads are damaged.
I wouldn't want to own one of these hubs, but if this were a flip and the freewheel cogs were good, I would try to fix the threads before changing the hub. Use WD-40 and work that lockring back and forth. Use an iron file with a sharp edge on the thread spacing. Sand the base of the freewheel possibly. Anything...
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Old 07-31-22, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by SurferRosa;[url=tel:22593038
22593038[/url]]I still don't understand why the lockring will thread on without the freewheel in place. I would keep trying.
here’s a comparison of where the lock ring sits with and without the freewheel in place.
you can see how the lock ring is sitting up higher with the freewheel in place when you look at the lock nuts.
the threads are just too far gone for the lock ring to threads and lock.
i might JB weld it in a couple spots until I get a 126mm replacement.







The threads look pretty good if anyone wants a lock ring! Hurry, it’ll be stuck soon!!
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Old 08-01-22, 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by mrv View Post
The threads look pretty good if anyone wants a lockring! Hurry, it’ll be stuck with JB Weld soon!!
You're basically just discarding a valuable vintage component by using the very short-term solution of JB Weld. These lockrings can go for $25+ on eBay. And then it makes it far more difficult to save the drive-side spokes. If you have a bike co-op, a replacement hub can be easily found.
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Old 08-01-22, 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by SurferRosa View Post
You're basically just discarding a valuable vintage component by using the very short-term solution of JB Weld. These lockrings can go for $25+ on eBay. And then it makes it far more difficult to save the drive-side spokes. If you have a bike co-op, a replacement hub can be easily found.
SurferRosa has a good point. Here, haste can certainly make waste.

If you're really insistent on using an adhesive-based solution, you might want to try one of the stronger Locktite products first. They're designed to allow the item to be removed later, at least in theory. JB Weld is fairly permanent.
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