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Crank for 93 Bridgestone RB-1 (red)

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Crank for 93 Bridgestone RB-1 (red)

Old 08-02-22, 08:24 AM
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Drock25
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Crank for 93 Bridgestone RB-1 (red)

Hello all,
I ran into problems with my brakes and crank and need to replace them. I started looking at a tiagra group set but got confused when it came to the crankset. Will the newer on fit on that model? I tried the tiagra brakes and they seem to fit well. Also tried to get my hands on a 105 group set but they are nowhere to be found. Any help would be appreciated!
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Old 08-02-22, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Drock25 View Post
Hello all,
I ran into problems with my brakes and crank and need to replace them. I started looking at a tiagra group set but got confused when it came to the crankset. Will the newer on fit on that model? I tried the tiagra brakes and they seem to fit well. Also tried to get my hands on a 105 group set but they are nowhere to be found. Any help would be appreciated!
That bike will have a 68mm English threaded bottom bracket shell so any compatible crankset with the appropriate bottom bracket should fit.
Retro roadies- old frames with STI's or Ergos
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Old 08-02-22, 07:24 PM
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What is the end goal, you can probably go as wild as you want with some modern stuff or do a mix but it depends on your goal and budget. A lot of 7-8 speed derailleurs can run 9 speed stuff for instance and as long as your levers can handle the brakes you can run some more modern rim brakes but your best bet assuming the brakes work and they are dual pivot just get some good shoes and pads, cables and housing and you will have excellent braking without buying new brakes.
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Old 08-03-22, 06:20 AM
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Originally Posted by veganbikes View Post
What is the end goal, you can probably go as wild as you want with some modern stuff or do a mix but it depends on your goal and budget. A lot of 7-8 speed derailleurs can run 9 speed stuff for instance and as long as your levers can handle the brakes you can run some more modern rim brakes but your best bet assuming the brakes work and they are dual pivot just get some good shoes and pads, cables and housing and you will have excellent braking without buying new brakes.

so I currently have a shimano group set with Suntour superbe pro brakes. Iíve taken them to a few repair shops and Iíve been told there isnít much to do as they donít spring back anymore and one side will sit on the rim and rub it unless I manually fix it. My crank has started making some strange noises as well even after I got it checked out. When it comes to new vs retro I donít really care, but I do love the frame (even though the decals got rubbed off) Itís also a bike that Iíd love to keep for my wife and eventually my son so I wouldnít mind throwing a new group set on and since 105s are nowhere to be found I was thinking tiagra.
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Old 08-03-22, 08:03 AM
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A full Tiagra group should work on your bike. Especially if the BB shell on it is BSA threaded, which it likely is.

You'll run into issues though if you try to mix and match the derailleurs and shifters of your current stuff with Tiagra shifters or DR's. So better if you can replace it all. Including rear hub if it's not already 10 on the rear. Are you planning on changing the number of speeds on the rear? 2x or 3x front?

Might also be some issues with the pull ratio on the brakes. The more specific details you share about your current components and what you want, the less guessing an supposing we have to do. Shimano parts will have the exact part number on them somewhere. Usually on the backside. The printed name on the front is not specific enough other than for more generalizations.

I didn't quite follow what you were trying to say in your last post. Were you talking about the stuff that is on that bike or some other stuff?

Last edited by Iride01; 08-03-22 at 08:06 AM.
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Old 08-03-22, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Drock25 View Post
so I currently have a shimano group set with Suntour superbe pro brakes. Iíve taken them to a few repair shops and Iíve been told there isnít much to do as they donít spring back anymore and one side will sit on the rim and rub it unless I manually fix it. My crank has started making some strange noises as well even after I got it checked out. When it comes to new vs retro I donít really care, but I do love the frame (even though the decals got rubbed off) Itís also a bike that Iíd love to keep for my wife and eventually my son so I wouldnít mind throwing a new group set on and since 105s are nowhere to be found I was thinking tiagra.
Damn that sucks those Superbe Pros aren't working anymore. I bet someone might have a fix somewhere at some point but it may not be fully worth it.

I would go 105 if you can, it is out there and if you aren't in a huge rush I would wait on it. I might also consider some Ultegra if you can swing it especially if you are keeping it a while an RB-1 is a solid bike and well regarded and sought after so it wouldn't be a bad upgrade to go. If it were me I would build it out of parts but you may not have the parts bin for it.
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Old 08-05-22, 04:12 AM
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If I do go with Tiagra, I'll go full groupset so the pull ratio and everything else should be good. I am looking at a Shimano Tiagra FC-4700 crank with a 165 mm arm (currently 170 and pedal hits the road and or tire when I turn). If I have that creaking coming from the bracket would it also be a good idea to get a new bottom bracket? I need to replace the rear wheel as well as it currently holds a 7 speed with two small spacers. 2 in the front.

My current group set is a Shimano RSX with the Suntour brakes, which has been on the bike since 2002 or so (when I bought it).
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Old 08-05-22, 04:13 AM
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Thank you!
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Old 08-05-22, 04:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Drock25 View Post
If I do go with Tiagra, I'll go full groupset so the pull ratio and everything else should be good. I am looking at a Shimano Tiagra FC-4700 crank with a 165 mm arm (currently 170 and pedal hits the road and or tire when I turn). If I have that creaking coming from the bracket would it also be a good idea to get a new bottom bracket? I need to replace the rear wheel as well as it currently holds a 7 speed with two small spacers. 2 in the front.

My current group set is a Shimano RSX with the Suntour brakes, which has been on the bike since 2002 or so (when I bought it).
Might want to get the calipers and measure those small spacers on your existing rear wheel before you replace it. If those existing spacers - which I assume are behind the existing 7-speed cassette - total around 4.5mm, you may already have an 8/9/10-speed hub (using 7-speed cassettes on an 8/9/10-speed hub requires a 4.5mm or so spacer). Velobase indicates an 8-speed version of the groupset became available in 1999, so if the RSX components on the bike included RSX hubs that's possible.

Plus, the Shimano RSX groupset was just below 105 at the time - quite decent, but not high-end. If the rear is an 8-speed RSX hub (FH-A416) in good shape, it might well have thousands of miles left in it. But the rear OLD alone won't tell you if the freehub is 7-speed or 8-speed; the 7-speed RSX rear hub (FH-A410) was available in both 126mm and 130mm OLD versions.

Those RSX rear hubs had stickers on the rear hub barrel to indicate the model number. Unless the rear hub still has the sticker on the barrel, you'll likely need to measure either the length of the freehub (preferred) or the spacers to determine whether you have a 7- or 8/9/10-speed freehub. Unless you've replaced the rear hub or wheel since acquiring the bike in 2002, measuring the spacers is IMO far easier and can give you fairly definitive confirmation if it's 8/9/10-speed if the spacers total around 4.5mm.

If you decide to go Tiagra 4700, don't forget the 1mm spacer behind the cassette on an 8/9/10-speed hub (or a 1.85mm on an 11-speed hub).

Last edited by Hondo6; 08-05-22 at 05:34 AM.
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Old 08-05-22, 05:28 AM
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Addendum to previous: if you do decide to go with a replacement wheel, the Shimano WS-RS100 wheelset is still available. It's a 10/11-speed Shimano Tiagra wheelset, is very reasonably priced, matches the rest of the 4700 groupset well, and appears to be reasonably well-built (I have a set awaiting install on a new build).

Or if you like your existing rims, you could rebuild your existing wheels (or have them rebuilt) with the Tiagra RS400 hubs and achieve the same end (10/11 speed rear hub, Tiagra 4700 groupset components).

Best of luck with the build.

Last edited by Hondo6; 08-05-22 at 05:35 AM.
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Old 08-13-22, 05:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Hondo6 View Post
Addendum to previous: if you do decide to go with a replacement wheel, the Shimano WS-RS100 wheelset is still available. It's a 10/11-speed Shimano Tiagra wheelset, is very reasonably priced, matches the rest of the 4700 groupset well, and appears to be reasonably well-built (I have a set awaiting install on a new build).

Or if you like your existing rims, you could rebuild your existing wheels (or have them rebuilt) with the Tiagra RS400 hubs and achieve the same end (10/11 speed rear hub, Tiagra 4700 groupset components).

Best of luck with the build.
Wow, Thanks for the information! its incredible, the more i read about these bikes the more nuances I find which makes the whole thing very confusing! Just a quick update and a new question. The creaking in my bottom bracket/crankset seems to miraculously disappeared so I am going to hold off on replacing the entire groupset. I do need a new front larger chainring as mine is missing a tooth and the rest are razor sharp. It is an Shimano SG-53. I've checked online but cant find that model anymore. Any idea what that would be compatible with?
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Old 08-13-22, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Drock25 View Post
Wow, Thanks for the information! . . . . I do need a new front larger chainring as mine is missing a tooth and the rest are razor sharp. It is an Shimano SG-53. I've checked online but cant find that model anymore. Any idea what that would be compatible with?
You're welcome; happy to share info.

If it's a Shimano crank that was original equipment on the bike (or one of many others) and is 5-armed, it will most likely have either a 130mm or 110mm bolt circle diameter (BCD). If it's a 53T large chainring, I'd guess its 130mm BCD - but that's only a guess. There's no reason 110mm BCD chainrings can't be that large, and Shimano might have made one in 110mm BCD also. Shimano made a fair number of 110 BCD cranks too.

If it's a Shimano crank, it will have the model number (FC-XXXX, where X can be either a number or letter) on the back side of the drive side crank arm. With the model number of the crank it will be possible to determine the BCD of the crank.

Posting a photo of anything printed/embossed/in raised letters on the back side of the drive side crank arm would be extremely helpful here. While you can't post photos in comments until you have 10+ posts, you can upload photos to a personal album on bikeforums.net. Someone else who has more total posts can then provide pic assist by posting them (or URLs to them) in this thread.

Those BCDs (130mm and 110mm) were widely used on road bikes until fairly recently. If it's one of those BCDs, you should be able to find a compatible chainring fairly easily. Chainrings with the same BCD are generally "plug and play" compatible (there are a few exceptions).

A few manufacturers didn't "play nice" and used BCDs other than 130mm or 110mm on that era's road cranks. If that's the case for yours, you might be better off economically replacing the bottom bracket, crankset, and chainrings - other than Campagnolo, it's my impression that replacement chainrings in other BCDs are not easy to find. And Campagnolo is pricey.

Hopefully what you have is a 5-bolt Shimano with standard 130mm or 110mm BCD. Replacement chainrings for those aren't that difficult to find.

I'll let one of our pro mechanics weigh in on whether the disappearing creak is something you should worry about.

Last edited by Hondo6; 08-13-22 at 12:45 PM. Reason: Add info about personal album and pic assist.
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