Are these an outdated type of pedal?
#1
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Are these an outdated type of pedal?
It's the one on the right. From an older Fuji Royale road bike. Can I adapt the black ones on somehow? Maybe replace the spindles? The crank arms just have threaded holes for them. This is the first time I've worked on pedals. Most I've learned is to loosen backwards on both pedals due to the opposite threads

#2
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The one on the right is the normal one.
I think the one on the left is missing the small axle which threads into the pedal with one end and into the crank arm with the other end. The purpose of this design is to be able to replace this small axle making the pedal compatible with both 9/16 and 1/2 threads.
I think the one on the left is missing the small axle which threads into the pedal with one end and into the crank arm with the other end. The purpose of this design is to be able to replace this small axle making the pedal compatible with both 9/16 and 1/2 threads.
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You only loosen (and tighten) 'backwards' on the left hand (non-drive side)pedal. The pedal on the drive (chain) side has 'normal' threading and behaves like you would expect. The pedals pictured on the right are not (IMO) antiquated just yet, it is more the case that the black ones are unique, in my experience. WTF. Can you position the camera for a view into the end of the pedal? I've seen newish pedals use 8mm Allen keys for installation/removal; with or without 'flats' for crescent wrenches, but the threading still has to be external to go into the crankarm.
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It's the one on the right. From an older Fuji Royale road bike. Can I adapt the black ones on somehow? Maybe replace the spindles? The crank arms just have threaded holes for them. This is the first time I've worked on pedals. Most I've learned is to loosen backwards on both pedals due to the opposite threads 

#5
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The one on the right is the normal one.
I think the one on the left is missing the small axle which threads into the pedal with one end and into the crank arm with the other end. The purpose of this design is to be able to replace this small axle making the pedal compatible with both 9/16 and 1/2 threads.
I think the one on the left is missing the small axle which threads into the pedal with one end and into the crank arm with the other end. The purpose of this design is to be able to replace this small axle making the pedal compatible with both 9/16 and 1/2 threads.
+1. Blackburn universal pedal set at WallyWorld for $8.36 resembles the black one. One size DOES fit all-except DynaDrive. Leisestrum will see MANY more of these as Specialized and Trek corporate stores take over the world! They have the Walton family running scared-
These are what you get at midnight Saturday at Walmart when you realize you drove eight hours to the campsite and brought your road shoes instead of your off road shoes, the ride starts at 6 am and the nearest bike shop opens on Tuesday two hours away. They DID kinda much the graphics on my friend's Lynskey with the carbon cranks-very stylish!
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Maybe you haven't heard, but this is a convention for people to remember how to loosen a pedal regardless of side (left or right). Both loosen by turning a wrench held at 12:00 "backwards" toward the rear wheel.
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Tell us what the issue is. Are you replacing pedals on this particular vintage Fuji? What is wrong with the original pedal set? You can overhaul vintage pedals with removable dust caps if there is a problem in their function. Usually, the way to replace a pedal spindle is with one from the same manufacturer or model. If you have a bicycle co-op nearby, you can usually find inexpensive pedals. You can then fully overhaul them and shine them up. The Japanese made great pedals back in the day. I prefer two models from KKT, Pro Ace and Top Run.
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#8
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The one on the right is the normal one.
I think the one on the left is missing the small axle which threads into the pedal with one end and into the crank arm with the other end. The purpose of this design is to be able to replace this small axle making the pedal compatible with both 9/16 and 1/2 threads.
I think the one on the left is missing the small axle which threads into the pedal with one end and into the crank arm with the other end. The purpose of this design is to be able to replace this small axle making the pedal compatible with both 9/16 and 1/2 threads.
Well that may be why they were on sale at Walmart. Missing pieces.
#9
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You only loosen (and tighten) 'backwards' on the left hand (non-drive side)pedal. The pedal on the drive (chain) side has 'normal' threading and behaves like you would expect. The pedals pictured on the right are not (IMO) antiquated just yet, it is more the case that the black ones are unique, in my experience. WTF. Can you position the camera for a view into the end of the pedal? I've seen newish pedals use 8mm Allen keys for installation/removal; with or without 'flats' for crescent wrenches, but the threading still has to be external to go into the crankarm.
#10
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Thread Starter
Tell us what the issue is. Are you replacing pedals on this particular vintage Fuji? What is wrong with the original pedal set? You can overhaul vintage pedals with removable dust caps if there is a problem in their function. Usually, the way to replace a pedal spindle is with one from the same manufacturer or model. If you have a bicycle co-op nearby, you can usually find inexpensive pedals. You can then fully overhaul them and shine them up. The Japanese made great pedals back in the day. I prefer two models from KKT, Pro Ace and Top Run.
Most won't like this but I ride barefoot. And the metal is a little tough. Would like the plastic as I have on my other bikes
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Check your local bike shop for some cheap plastic pedals as some keep a box of orphan pedals from new bikes that were changed out. I think these types of pedals would be more comfortable with bare feet, but you can always sand/grind/cut the teeth off of plastic pedals fairly easily. Just an example Giant Urbano Bike Commuting and Crusing Pedals – Bicycle Warehouse
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#12
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The one on the right is the normal one.
I think the one on the left is missing the small axle which threads into the pedal with one end and into the crank arm with the other end. The purpose of this design is to be able to replace this small axle making the pedal compatible with both 9/16 and 1/2 threads.
I think the one on the left is missing the small axle which threads into the pedal with one end and into the crank arm with the other end. The purpose of this design is to be able to replace this small axle making the pedal compatible with both 9/16 and 1/2 threads.
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+1. Blackburn universal pedal set at WallyWorld for $8.36 resembles the black one. One size DOES fit all-except DynaDrive. Leisestrum will see MANY more of these as Specialized and Trek corporate stores take over the world! They have the Walton family running scared-
These are what you get at midnight Saturday at Walmart when you realize you drove eight hours to the campsite and brought your road shoes instead of your off road shoes, the ride starts at 6 am and the nearest bike shop opens on Tuesday two hours away. They DID kinda much the graphics on my friend's Lynskey with the carbon cranks-very stylish!
These are what you get at midnight Saturday at Walmart when you realize you drove eight hours to the campsite and brought your road shoes instead of your off road shoes, the ride starts at 6 am and the nearest bike shop opens on Tuesday two hours away. They DID kinda much the graphics on my friend's Lynskey with the carbon cranks-very stylish!
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There are much better pedals for riding barefoot. Anything with a 'cage' is less than optimal.
For example:
https://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/9-16-In...m/5GNZ9JP6MOBK
Other types are available, this was just the first ones I found with an image and a working link.
Here's some fancy ones:
https://www.amazon.ca/Look-Geo-City-...8KGQRYLH&psc=1
For example:
https://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/9-16-In...m/5GNZ9JP6MOBK
Other types are available, this was just the first ones I found with an image and a working link.
Here's some fancy ones:
https://www.amazon.ca/Look-Geo-City-...8KGQRYLH&psc=1
#16
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+1. Blackburn universal pedal set at WallyWorld for $8.36 resembles the black one. One size DOES fit all-except DynaDrive. Leisestrum will see MANY more of these as Specialized and Trek corporate stores take over the world! They have the Walton family running scared-
These are what you get at midnight Saturday at Walmart when you realize you drove eight hours to the campsite and brought your road shoes instead of your off road shoes, the ride starts at 6 am and the nearest bike shop opens on Tuesday two hours away. They DID kinda much the graphics on my friend's Lynskey with the carbon cranks-very stylish!
These are what you get at midnight Saturday at Walmart when you realize you drove eight hours to the campsite and brought your road shoes instead of your off road shoes, the ride starts at 6 am and the nearest bike shop opens on Tuesday two hours away. They DID kinda much the graphics on my friend's Lynskey with the carbon cranks-very stylish!
Last edited by Camilo; 08-05-22 at 03:15 PM.
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There are much better pedals for riding barefoot. Anything with a 'cage' is less than optimal.
For example:
https://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/9-16-In...m/5GNZ9JP6MOBK
Other types are available, this was just the first ones I found with an image and a working link.
Here's some fancy ones:
https://www.amazon.ca/Look-Geo-City-...8KGQRYLH&psc=1
For example:
https://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/9-16-In...m/5GNZ9JP6MOBK
Other types are available, this was just the first ones I found with an image and a working link.
Here's some fancy ones:
https://www.amazon.ca/Look-Geo-City-...8KGQRYLH&psc=1
I'm sure I'm not the only one that gets a little impatient with newbies posting the same question over and over. But I believe this is the first time I've seen a thread on the best pedal for barefoot riding, and it's very refreshing!
I am waiting for some know-it-all to criticize the OP for riding barefoot. I say, go for it, and enjoy the feeling of bare feet in a warm breeze!
#18
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Thread Starter
Thanks for all the tips. But I ain't paying more than $10 for pedals if even. Got those black ones for $5. I'm hoping to snag a free bike being donated as they are from time to time. I can wait. Or get a whole bike from a thrift store for cheap and part it out.
One of you suggested grinding down my stock pedals but they're original so I want to keep em, or even use em if I decide to use shoes say like in winter.
One of you suggested grinding down my stock pedals but they're original so I want to keep em, or even use em if I decide to use shoes say like in winter.
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Yes, if for some reason the bare foot slips off the pedal and hits the ground there will be dire consequences.
What Crankycrank said. Or something like this:
https://www.randombikeparts.com/coll...muter-bike-new
But these resin pedals are for sissies. Chuck Norris rides road clipless, his feet have integrated cleats for that.
https://www.randombikeparts.com/coll...muter-bike-new
But these resin pedals are for sissies. Chuck Norris rides road clipless, his feet have integrated cleats for that.
Last edited by csport; 08-06-22 at 09:08 PM.
#20
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Thread Starter
Yes, if for some reason the bare foot slips off the pedal and hits the ground there will be dire consequences.
What Crankycrank said. Or something like this:
https://www.randombikeparts.com/coll...muter-bike-new
But these resin pedals are for sissies. Chuck Norris rides road clipless, his feet have integrated cleats for that.
What Crankycrank said. Or something like this:
https://www.randombikeparts.com/coll...muter-bike-new
But these resin pedals are for sissies. Chuck Norris rides road clipless, his feet have integrated cleats for that.