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Where can I buy an axle?

Old 08-14-22, 05:56 PM
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tessellahedron
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Where can I buy an axle?

Where can I buy a hollow 3/8" x 130mm axle?

I'm pretty sure that's what I need for the rear wheel of my 70s schwinn 10 speed but i can't find one online and there are no bike shops here.
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Old 08-14-22, 06:30 PM
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Where is here? Have you measured the thread pitch yet?

Back in the 1970s there were a few axle threading specs in common use. 3/8" x 24 tpi (doubtful as this was usually used on coaster brake hubs), 3/8"x 26tpi (more common), 9.5mm x 1mm and 9.5 x 26tpi. These last 3 can be hard to tell apart and for the thin lock nuts somewhat interchangeable. But for the amount of threads that a cone typically has the differences are enough to be an issue. I suggest a pitch gage be bought to narrow down the mistakes.

Of course the final way to get the right axle to fit your cones is to try one and repeat till found. Andy
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Old 08-14-22, 09:07 PM
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So if I get an axle with cones and nuts on it I can ignore thread pitch right?

I'll try to get a caliper on those threads next time there's enough exposed clean ones but I'm not worried about that right now.

I live in NE Colorado. I can walk to the state line from my apartment. There are only 2400 people in this county and I don't own a car or know anyone here. That's all fine and by choice but it means an inoperable bike is a big problem.

So I guess I'm riding on this broken axle. I did go over 25 miles today after the rear wheel started bumping the frame and I thought I'd fixed it completely by tightening the skewer. I don't remember any issues, but when I got home and started to replace a spoke, one end of the axle with nut and cone just fell right out.

What scares me is that the skewer is obviously starting to bend.

So, I need to order a replacement asap, but in the meantime I need to make this as rideable as possible. The combined grocery/hardware store is close and has everything you'd find in a small hardware store plus barbed wire and cattle tags. I was considering jb weld or similar. What do you think? Better ideas?

I tried Amazon, Walmart.com, Google shopping, and a few bike shop type websites. I boycott Ebay. The only place I know for sure has this axle is a bike coop in Arizona. They have bins of them and would probably only ask for a $1 donation. How can there be none online?
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Old 08-14-22, 09:18 PM
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To attempt a repair I'll have to clean the axle with solvent and at that point I'll try to get very precise measurements of outside diameter, length and thread pitch. I've been trying to hold it all together in the hub to avoid dealing with the ball bearings but I know at some point they're gonna go everywhere like always.
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Old 08-14-22, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by tessellahedron View Post
So if I get an axle with cones and nuts on it I can ignore thread pitch right?

I'll try to get a caliper on those threads next time there's enough exposed clean ones but I'm not worried about that right now.

I live in NE Colorado. I can walk to the state line from my apartment. There are only 2400 people in this county and I don't own a car or know anyone here. That's all fine and by choice but it means an inoperable bike is a big problem.

So I guess I'm riding on this broken axle. I did go over 25 miles today after the rear wheel started bumping the frame and I thought I'd fixed it completely by tightening the skewer. I don't remember any issues, but when I got home and started to replace a spoke, one end of the axle with nut and cone just fell right out.

What scares me is that the skewer is obviously starting to bend.

So, I need to order a replacement asap, but in the meantime I need to make this as rideable as possible. The combined grocery/hardware store is close and has everything you'd find in a small hardware store plus barbed wire and cattle tags. I was considering jb weld or similar. What do you think? Better ideas?

I tried Amazon, Walmart.com, Google shopping, and a few bike shop type websites. I boycott Ebay. The only place I know for sure has this axle is a bike coop in Arizona. They have bins of them and would probably only ask for a $1 donation. How can there be none online?
JB weld will not hold.
You might be able to obtain a piece of plumbing pipe, a pipe threading kit, & matching nuts to buy you time until the priority order is delivered containing the required parts to fit it for the purpose. Another option is to pick up a spare wheel assembly, if that is possible.
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Old 08-14-22, 09:53 PM
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It's steel I assume someone around there can weld
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Old 08-14-22, 10:27 PM
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I considered asking around about a welder but the cost will exceed a replacement. I can wait for a new one, assuming someone on earth sells them.

I went ahead and pulled the axle out. I set my calipers to 0.37" (3/8"). They slip over the smooth section with room to spare but won't fit over the threaded section. In metric I'm getting 9.2mm smooth and 9.8mm on the threads. So basically the axle doesn't match any of the expected numbers (0.375" or 9.5mm), unless I'm measuring wrong, using the flat part of the caliper.

I think I'm getting a thread pitch just above 1.0mm, so my guess is that it's 26tpi.

I'll try to do pictures.
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Old 08-14-22, 11:07 PM
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Old 08-14-22, 11:45 PM
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Rear axles are commonly M10x1 mm pitch, though there are few M10x 26 TPI (threads per inch) as well as 3/8" axles out there in 24 and 26 TPI. With that as a starting assumption, since you have calipers you can measure the thread pitch as well.
1. Male thread major diameter is going to be a bit smaller than nominal size. It depends a bit on thread class, but 9.8 mm is still within spec. for an M10x1.0 male thread. Check the thread pitch averaged across 25 or so threads and we'll know.
2. Unfortunately M10x1.0 is a less common fine pitch vs. the more common M10x1.25 and coarse M10x1.5, so the usual "try it at the local hardware store" might not work.
3. Wheels Manufacturing (who will remind you they don't accept returns, so get it right) sells them online and is a well known manufacturer. A quick search for "hollow bicycle axle" returned dozens of results on Amazon, Ebay, and a few others with much lower prices than Wheels Mfg if you'd rather have a no-name import. Nobody is going to match co-op parts bin prices.
4. While you don't need to know your thread pitch if you also replace the cones, it's entirely possible that the cones or the dust covers on the cones won't perfectly mate to your hub, and may be of a different quality level as well.
5. I know a lot of people who have ridden a hub with a broken axle for an undetermined amount of time, but there's always the risk of the skewer breaking (and sudden departure of the wheel from where it should be). Additionally, you aren't doing the inside of your hub any favors with the cones being non-coaxial while that's happening.
6. Given your lack of local bicycle parts suppliers and dependence on your bicycle you might consider adding a spoke protector behind the freewheel. They're a bit like a seat belt, useless until you need them and invaluable when you do.
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Old 08-15-22, 12:14 AM
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Almost all Quick Release axles will be metric, either 9.5mm or 10mm for the rear.

I think the 3/8 is typically bolt on.

You could compare threading to a BMX bike with bolt on wheels if you have one.

Threads are often rolled, making them bigger than the smooth part or the axle.

You likely could replace the axle, cones, locknuts, etc. And sometimes the whole setup is just as cheap as just the axle.

I can't see the condition of your cones until you actually clean the cones.

If your axle is 130mm long, then your dropout spacing is probably 126mm.

Personally I like axles that are a little longer, but still fit in the dropouts. They're pretty easy to cut if you get one that is too long.

I'd probably purchase replacement bearings too.
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Old 08-15-22, 01:08 AM
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Originally Posted by CliffordK View Post
If your axle is 130mm long, then your dropout spacing is probably 126mm.
I would guess the o.l.d. is 120mm.

He says it's a '70s Schwinn "ten-speed," and he shows a photo of a 5-speed freewheel. A 130mm axle would allow 5mm outside the locknut in each dropout, which is fairly typical. Having only 2mm in each dropout (if o.l.d. is 126) might be enough, but that doesn't give me the warm fuzzies. I need at least 3mm.

The c&v subforum could probably quickly determine the correct axle he needs, simply based on the bike model and year. (I'll just assume the axle and hub are original.) For $20+tax, he can buy a new axle from Wheels Manufacturing on ebay in a length of 140mm and use a hacksaw to cut it down. Leave a nut or cone inside the cut, so you can clean the threads when you remove it.
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Old 08-15-22, 07:30 AM
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It's the Schwinn Approved Traveler 3, from '78 or '79 as far as I can tell. The rear hub says "schwinn approved 36-78 made in France." I'd lost a picture but it's nearly impossible to read.

the dropout distance I gave you of 130mm is correct, but I didn't add the almost exactly 7mm for the derailleur mount. Wheels manufacturing has two 137mm axles, one 9.5mm and one 10mm! It's the first time in hours of searching that anything seems to match.

1) The dropouts are exactly 10.2mm all along their flat length. If a 10mm axle is 10mm, it would fit. I suspect they are not, and I need the 9.5mm.

2) 9.5mm is exactly between 9.2 and 9.8mm (the diameters I measured).

3) my measurements of thread pitch all exceeded 1.0mm (25.4tpi) just slightly. That sounds exactly like 26tpi to me.

So this:
https://wheelsmfg.com/axle-10.html
looks hella good

the other one (the 10mm diameter) is:
https://wheelsmfg.com/axle-01.html

the only thing throwing me off now is their description that the 10mm fits many shimano/Japanese hubs. The 9.5mm just says Taiwanese hubs.

can anyone confirm that my 3 points above are correct and I need the axle that's usually for Taiwanese hubs?
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Old 08-15-22, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by tessellahedron View Post
It's the Schwinn Approved Traveler 3, from '78 or '79 as far as I can tell. The rear hub says "schwinn approved 36-78 made in France." I'd lost a picture but it's nearly impossible to read.

the dropout distance I gave you of 130mm is correct,
Is that dropout distance measured from the inside face of one dropout to the inside face of the other? That is the correct way to measure
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Old 08-15-22, 07:45 AM
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So that's what I need to determine before I can resolve this issue, but in the meantime I'm considering options.

1) put it back together as is and stay within walking distance of home.

2) un-sieze the cones and nuts somehow then move them all a couple mm to the left. That means a cone will cover the break in the axle (add jb weld too?). Use washers or grind the right side shorter with my dremel tool (no hacksaw), and hope for the best on the left side with reduced dropout contact. The dropouts are 4mm thick and the axle was flush so I'm hoping I could get 2mm there.

Would you ride on the highway like that? I'm missing the best weather we've had in a couple months.

I dunno what c&v is but if this post should have been there I have no problem with a mod moving it. I just signed up here recently.
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Old 08-15-22, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by tessellahedron View Post
So that's what I need to determine before I can resolve this issue, but in the meantime I'm considering options.

1) put it back together as is and stay within walking distance of home.

2) un-sieze the cones and nuts somehow then move them all a couple mm to the left. That means a cone will cover the break in the axle (add jb weld too?). Use washers or grind the right side shorter with my dremel tool (no hacksaw), and hope for the best on the left side with reduced dropout contact. The dropouts are 4mm thick and the axle was flush so I'm hoping I could get 2mm there.

Would you ride on the highway like that? .
I wouldn't ride down my driveway like that
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Old 08-15-22, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by alcjphil View Post
Is that dropout distance measured from the inside face of one dropout to the inside face of the other? That is the correct way to measure
no, it's outside edges since that plus derailleur width is the axle length.

I guess it'd be 122mm but I just measured again really carefully and got values ranging from 124.5mm to 125mm depending upon where.

137mm should be the actual axle length. I've never been able to measure the axle itself.
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Old 08-15-22, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by tessellahedron View Post
no, it's outside edges since that plus derailleur width is the axle length.
Dropout spacing is always measured from the inside face of one dropout to the inside face of the other. This is what is referred to as OLD (over locknut dimension) . Axles are always about 5-10 mm longer than that. Most hubs with 5 speed freewheels are designed for 120 mm dropout spacing

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Old 08-15-22, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by tessellahedron View Post
I dunno what c&v is but if this post should have been there I have no problem with a mod moving it. I just signed up here recently.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/

Can't believe you're toying with you idea of not replacing the axle with a new one or a used one in good condition. It's absurd to do anything else.
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Old 08-15-22, 10:37 AM
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"Schwinn approved, made in France," means Normandy. I used to rebuild these with standard Campagnolo axle-cone sets, but these are sadly no longer available. The original Normandy axles may have been 9.5 mm, but since you're replacing the cones, the extra girth will be worthwhile. Bike Parts USA (Bike parts shop - Best mountain bike parts - Bicycle parts available - Mavic Fast and Light Mountain Rims) has $6.99 10 mm axle sets. We used to get these from J&B importers for rebuilds on commuters, etc. Bike Hub Parts - HUB AXLE SET REAR WM . The 10x1x130x141 will work if the cone outside diameter and race taper match what you have, and you cut the length down to 137 mm or a little less. I've bought stuff from these folks a few times--they're legit. Otherwise, there's Wheels Manufacturing (wheelsmfg.com). Here's their hub parts guide. https://wheelsmfg.com/hub-tech-help.

If you do this without removing the freewheel, set the cone-spacers-locknut stack on the drive side first, and wrench it down good and tight. For the most part, these hubs come unthreaded on the drive side because the locknuts were never tight enough. The rotation of the wheel loosens the cone and eventually the balls are cutting a groove in the axle instead of running in the cone race. And by all means replace the ball bearings.

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Old 08-15-22, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by SurferRosa View Post
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/

Can't believe you're toying with you idea of not replacing the axle with a new one or a used one in good condition. It's absurd to do anything else.
I think you misunderstood. My options long term are replace the axle or get a different bike.

Until i can get an axle I'll just ride on the broken one in town.

Unless I can devise and successfully execute a temporary repair that I'm confident in I won't be able to do any significant rides.
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Old 08-15-22, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by tessellahedron View Post
Until i can get an axle I'll just ride on the broken one.
I'm sorry, but that's one of the most obtuse things I've ever read on this forum.
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Old 08-15-22, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by tessellahedron View Post
Until i can get an axle I'll just ride on the broken one in town.
Riding on a broken axle is not safe. The worst fall I ever took on my bike was riding on a broken axle. I stood up to accelerate, the axle flexed and my chain slipped on the freewheel teeth. I went headfirst over the handlebar and landed on my left shoulder breaking my collarbone and also breaking 3 ribs under my armpit. I spent 3 weeks having to sleep sitting up and needing help to get out of bed. For a couple of years after that I could always tell when rain was approaching because my shoulder would ache. That is why I said in a previous post that I wouldn't even ride down my driveway on a broken axle
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Old 08-15-22, 10:55 AM
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As for the length needed for the replacement axle, you can just measure the length of the old axle (with broken pieces held together) and match it. You could even order a 10mm AND a 3/8” axle just to be safe. They’re cheap. Trying to repair or ride on a broken axle will be a waste of time.
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Old 08-15-22, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by oldbobcat View Post
"Schwinn approved, made in France," means Normandy. I used to rebuild these
wow, talk about credibility. Gimme a chance to examine those links.
And by all means replace the ball bearings.
I like your suggestion. Can I use balls that are connected together in a little retainer thing or do they have to be the lose kind? (That's not a spelling error, it's what I do with them) I imagine they're standard sizes but what would I search for?
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Old 08-15-22, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by SurferRosa View Post
I'm sorry, but that's one of the most obtuse things I've ever read on this forum.
if it broke when I think it did I already put 25 hard pedaling miles on it. If a spoke hadn't broken too I wouldn't have pulled the wheel apart and wouldn't even know.

It takes between 1.5 and 3.5 miles per week to keep the pantry stocked and I'm not walking.

definitely going to keep my weight back and speed low in case of catastrophic lockup but I suspect it will never come.
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