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105 shifting no tensions works out

Old 08-29-22, 03:07 PM
  #1  
byenary
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105 shifting no tensions works out

Hi,
Any tips to get this solved? this is a R7000 (105) setup where all inner and outer cables were changed and also the front derailleur was replaced.
When I'm in the 11 he wont go to 12 so I add some cable tension and fix it,
Then on the other side the 32 won't go back to the 28 so I need to losen the tension. and than I'm back where I was en 11 no longer goes to 12....
Suggestions? The pad is still straight (altough based on vision).

Thx for suggestions.
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Old 08-29-22, 07:27 PM
  #2  
andrewclaus
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Get a shop or the correct tool to check the hanger alignment. If you have a quick release front wheel, it will thread into the hanger and you can check the two wheels for parallel.

After the hanger alignment is verified, check the high limit screw setting.

Check the new cable housing for excess length or kinks.
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Old 08-29-22, 07:56 PM
  #3  
Kai Winters
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Andy has the right of it.
Start from the beginning.
remove the cable from the pinch bolt on the rear der...check that there isn't a problem with the cable moving in the housing by holding the end of the cable with some tension and shifting, using the shifter, up and down the gear range...you should feel the cable moving when shifting in one direction and when pulling the cable with some tension, not a lot, and shifting in the other direction you should be able to pull the cable a bit with each shift...if it moves smoothly in both directions there are no kinks, etc. in the cable/housing.

remove the rear der from the hanger and check alignment...if you don't have the correct tool...sigh...don't think eyeballing it works...it doesn't...bring the frame to a shop and have then check alignment and realign...they ought to do it while you wait as it takes 5 minutes or less...maybe more if it is really out of whack.

install rear der and check/adjust limit screw for the gear with the fewest teeth...like grandpa...the jockey pulley, the top pulley, ought to be in alignment with grandpa's teeth...er um meant the gear with the fewest teeth.

reinstall the chain...attach the cable to the rear der...I always open the rear der cable tension adjustment a few threads so I can pre load the der with a bit of tension...I always adjust cable tension by shifting the chain onto the big chain ring and the second most teeth cassette gear then increasing cable tension until I just start to hear the chain start to rub the next gear...then I back it off until the chain is running quiet...If it is rubbing the next gear when you shift it onto the second gear, back off the tension...see why I pre load it...until it is quiet.

run the shifter/chain up the gears...it should be shifting easily, smoothly and quietly up the cassette/freewheel...just before the biggest gear shift slowly onto the biggest...if the der limit screw is off you don't want to shift the chain off the cassette between the cassette and spokes...once on the biggest gear...don't worry about front der chain rub...check and adjust the pulley so it is in alignment...on the money not beyond or you will get an unpleasant surprise and don't blame me/us as we just told you...run the gears up and down more quickly to check for good adjustment/alignment...it should shift smoothly and quickly...if the der is a nasty mess of dirt, old lube, etc...basically you don't take care of your stuff...it won't shift smoothly...that's on you.

if the der has seen better days from a lot of hard use the springs, etc. get tired and don't work as well...time for a new one or learn to live with it not shifting as it could.

add a bit of lube to the shifter...with use and age/time the bits and pieces get a bit dry and cranky and like a bit of lube now and then...a "bit" not a freaking pint...a drop or two goes a long way...same with the der...clean it thoroughly, wipe it dry and give it a bit of lube...again a few drops are your friend not a freaking quart...use good lube...3 in 1 is not a good lube...sigh
good luck

yeah that's right I didn't capitalize...so sue me
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Old 08-30-22, 04:57 AM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by byenary View Post
Hi,
Any tips to get this solved? this is a R7000 (105) setup where all inner and outer cables were changed and also the front derailleur was replaced.
When I'm in the 11 he wont go to 12 so I add some cable tension and fix it,
Then on the other side the 32 won't go back to the 28 so I need to losen the tension. and than I'm back where I was en 11 no longer goes to 12....
Suggestions? The pad is still straight (altough based on vision).

Thx for suggestions.
Two most likely culprits here are either hangar alignment or the cable is not hooked up to the rear derailleur correctly.

Since this started happening after a cable replacement, I suspect the latter.
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Old 08-30-22, 07:15 AM
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I'm unfamiliar with that specific derailleur but based on previous experience I would make sure the B screw is adjusted correctly. Use the method prescribed by Shimano in their technical documents. Several years back on a week long charity ride a derailleur hanger broke while riding and destroyed a 9 speed 105 long cage. On a Sunday the LBS graciously repaired everything using a 9 speed Deore. The mechanic couldn't get it to shift correctly in both directions at the same time and I gratefully put up with it on the rest of the ride. When I got home I dove into fixing it. The fix was to adjust the B screw so the jockey wheel was as close to the inner most sprocket as possible. It shifted like a dream from then on. I don't know if this will fix your issue but it would be an easier first step before tearing all apart and starting over.
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Old 08-30-22, 04:33 PM
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I would bet you lunch that the hanger alignment is a bit off.
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Old 09-02-22, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by cpach View Post
I would bet you lunch that the hanger alignment is a bit off.
Which can easily be fixed with a hammer and a pair of vise grips followed by a generous squirt of WD-40.
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