Height adjustable HB
Is this system of handlebar able to be raised up and down?
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...2833806b7b.jpg |
Originally Posted by ThisJustIn
(Post 22650710)
Is this system of handlebar able to be raised up and down?
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...2833806b7b.jpg Either (or both) of the spacers below the stem may be removed and reinstalled above the stem, or the stem maybe installed upside down, thereby decreasing the distance between the stem to the ground, which effectively lowers the handlebar. |
Originally Posted by SoSmellyAir
(Post 22650727)
The height of the handlebar cannot be raised from what is shown in the above photograph without buying a new stem.
Either (or both) of the spacers below the stem may be removed and reinstalled above the stem, or the stem maybe installed upside down, thereby decreasing the distance between the stem to the ground, which effectively lowers the handlebar. Cheers |
The usual goal with a question about raising the stem is to actually have the hand holding location (the grips on a non drop bar) higher. This can be had by a few methods.
One has been mentioned, a stem with a higher angling from the steerer to the bar clamp. Do know that a higher angled stem, for the same length, will also bring the grips back toward the seat (for better or not). A different handle bar with a riser bend in it will lift the grips above the central bar clamp height. This might not bring the bars back towards the seat depending on the bar having similar swept back, or not. A method which I dislike is to install a steerer riser extension and mount the existing stem on that. The reason why I dislike this option is the addition of more connections to not be kept properly tight and the chance for greater flex with the added leverage an extender has on the steerer. Note that many of these extensions have fine print to not use them for off road riding... When the bars, or the levers mounted on the bars, are moved higher up sometimes the cables are too short to not kink or bind up, especially when turning. If the cables end up needing added length to work well the old rears, if in good shape, can be moved to the fronts and only the rears need purchase. An aspect most don't think of initially when doing this higher grip change is that the body will rotate up and back some. This tends to place more pressure on the wider portion of one's butt. Often a saddle change is found to be needed too. The saddle might only need a small rearward repositioning or a replacement. The rider will have to figure this out. Andy |
Don't ever let that 'family member' work on your bike.
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Do you want to go down or up? Down is simple. Up requires buying new components, either bar or stem or both
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Originally Posted by cxwrench
(Post 22650958)
Don't ever let that 'family member' work on your bike.
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Originally Posted by alcjphil
(Post 22650965)
Do you want to go down or up? Down is simple. Up requires buying new components, either bar or stem or both
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Originally Posted by ThisJustIn
(Post 22651796)
Up, and by a quite a bit as the bike is a medium frame and I typically ride a large one
You might need to install longer shift and brake cables. |
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