Loosey lefty or righty tighty?
10-06-22, 05:40 PM
#26
Newbie
Originally Posted by squirtdad
you can build a var 30 like tool from the hardware store
it has worked well for me. also I like freeze-off and it helps to whack what ever tool your are using to add some shock, this tool allows for adding leverage easily
from sheldon
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.htmlThe tool is an imitation of a $40 shop tool that fits into the fixed cup as a crank spindle would, and pinches the cup. You apply unscrewing force to the tool, and it transfers this force to the cup with this tight friction fit.
The tool consists of a large bolt, a nut or two, and a few washers. The size of the bolt is not particularly critical, as long as the bolt is strong enough not to break, but small enough to fit through the hole in the cup. I used to use an ordinary 1/2-inch, 13 TPI hex bolt (also called a "cap screw"), which served me well for quite a while. It finally met its match on friend's Schwinn that had an unusually tight fixed cup; the bolt snapped in two before I could remove the cup.
Now I use a 5/8-inch 18 TPI hex bolt 1 1/2inches long, with a nut, a flat washer, and four lockwashers. The 5/8-inch size is the largest standard size that will fit through the hole in the cup. This bolt and nut both take a 15/16-inch wrench. With my 1/2 inch drive Craftsman six-point socket set, the 15/16-inch socket is also the largest size that will fit into a normal bottom bracket shell.
If you have some other brand of socket, check the fit before you buy the bolt and nut-you might need the next size down (9/16-inch).
it has worked well for me. also I like freeze-off and it helps to whack what ever tool your are using to add some shock, this tool allows for adding leverage easily
from sheldon
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.htmlThe tool is an imitation of a $40 shop tool that fits into the fixed cup as a crank spindle would, and pinches the cup. You apply unscrewing force to the tool, and it transfers this force to the cup with this tight friction fit.
The tool consists of a large bolt, a nut or two, and a few washers. The size of the bolt is not particularly critical, as long as the bolt is strong enough not to break, but small enough to fit through the hole in the cup. I used to use an ordinary 1/2-inch, 13 TPI hex bolt (also called a "cap screw"), which served me well for quite a while. It finally met its match on friend's Schwinn that had an unusually tight fixed cup; the bolt snapped in two before I could remove the cup.
Now I use a 5/8-inch 18 TPI hex bolt 1 1/2inches long, with a nut, a flat washer, and four lockwashers. The 5/8-inch size is the largest standard size that will fit through the hole in the cup. This bolt and nut both take a 15/16-inch wrench. With my 1/2 inch drive Craftsman six-point socket set, the 15/16-inch socket is also the largest size that will fit into a normal bottom bracket shell.
If you have some other brand of socket, check the fit before you buy the bolt and nut-you might need the next size down (9/16-inch).
10-06-22, 05:54 PM
#27
Senior Member
Easy way to remember how the cups go on and off is always tighten rotate forward TOWARD the front of the bike. Remove is the opposite. In other words, the cups tighten the same direction as the pedals rotate to make the bike go forward.
10-06-22, 06:00 PM
#28
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Originally Posted by shmuelyosef
sadly, this link is dead
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html
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Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
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Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or whole biked 57,58)
10-06-22, 06:42 PM
#29
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Originally Posted by drlogik
Easy way to remember how the cups go on and off is always tighten rotate forward TOWARD the front of the bike. Remove is the opposite. In other words, the cups tighten the same direction as the pedals rotate to make the bike go forward.
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Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
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Stuart Black
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Days of Wineless Roads. Bed and Breakfasting along the KATY
Twisting Down the Alley. Misadventures in tornado alley.
10-06-22, 06:58 PM
#30
Senior Member
You got it backwards there for English bottom brackets. From the 12 o’clock position, that removes the cups. The cups rotate towards the back of the bike to install. The left follows the right hand screw rule and the right follows the left hand screw rule. In other words, the left is right and the right is wrong.
10-06-22, 07:10 PM
#31
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Originally Posted by drlogik
Woops! I stand corrected.
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Stuart Black
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Days of Wineless Roads. Bed and Breakfasting along the KATY
Twisting Down the Alley. Misadventures in tornado alley.
Stuart Black
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Days of Wineless Roads. Bed and Breakfasting along the KATY
Twisting Down the Alley. Misadventures in tornado alley.
