McCycle

Would buy complete hub just for axle, but cannot find exact replacement, 36H, 120mm OLD.

I'm at the point of fantasizing about welding/or brazing the broken axle back together.

FBinNY 

I don't know how you measured, so I suspect you want either a 131mm axle for a 120 hub spacing, or a 141mm axle for 130mm spacing. The general rule is axles are 11mm (5.5per side) longer than the hub spacing measured lock nut to lock nut.

FWIW - 131 and 141mm axles are very common so once you use the right search criteria you'll be in like Flint.

grumpus

It shouldn't be difficult, something like this D2O Rear Hollow 10 mm Axle - 140 mm just needs a bit taken off the end if the exact length isn't readily available.

McCycle

It's near impossible to log on this site, the computer generated passwords are deemed invalid, over and over and over again.

Trying to post in response sent me back down the same rabbit hole of password resets again.

Yes, 131mm axle for 120mm ODL, near unobtainium.

Dave Mayer

Our local Co-op has a tray with several dozen 10 x 1 x 145mm threaded rear hub axles. When I require something shorter, I take one of these ($2) parts and with a (metal) hacksaw blade cut them down to size. Takes less than 5 minutes.

Make sure you thread one of the cones onto the side you want to cut before the cutting. Immobilize the axle with a bench vice, and cut away. Then file the end of the axle smooth. Next, unwind the cone, which serves to chase the mangled threads on the cut side. Then do a light filing to finish. Make sure the side you cut has enough threads for the cones, spacers, locknuts etc.

grumpus

Good axles are quite hard. I have an angle grinder holder that turns the grinder into a mini chop saw for a square cut. I use a slitting disc to slice the end off, then chamfer it on the bench grinder.

FBinNY 

Some things make me feel so old. Stuff I bought new and still ride is now apparently "vintage" and commanding outrageous prices.

Apparently 10mm steel axles are now in that category.

As suggested, consider buying a longer one and cutting it down. I suggest double checking the thread length by assembling into the hub as if installing it before deciding which end (or both) to cut.

Otherwise, if there's a long established shop or co-op in your community, go there first. They might not have an axle, but likely have an old wheel or hub collecting dust that they can sell for less than the price of an axle

70sSanO

Here you go...

https://www.loosescrews.com/product/...le-10x1x131mm/

John

Edit added: Or if you prefer ebay..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/22510271159...Bk9SR4Toz_mDYQ

McCycle

Why do I lose all my text having to log in every time I try to submit a post, demoralizing, I don't type well or easily.

McCycle

The problem I have with the aftermarket axle is lack of keyways for the slotted washers.

I'd prefer to use keyed washers, but the likelihood of slotting an axle seems iffy.

The aftermarket axle I have here has very short slots, just on the outside and my races seat quite far in, narrow hubs.

My old races don't jive with the threads on the new axle, if only I have a tap/die in this size, maybe I could make it work by rethreading the cones.

Weirdly enough, the locknuts spin on just fine, but the races/cones no go.

Murphy was an optimist.

70sSanO

Did you select "REMEMBER ME" when logging in.

Not sure that will fix it.

John

70sSanO

The Loose Screws axles are supposedly NOS 5 speed, and you can see the length of the slot, although faint, in the picture.

John

McCycle

Trying to buy the axle, PPal won't work from the site, it's like a conspiracy...

Moe Zhoost

Are you sure that you have a 10 x 1mm axle? There is some chance that it could be 3/8" x 26 tpi. They are pretty close and some folks have attempted to force an incorrect cone or nut onto them. Have you measured? I recommend to all to have a cheap digital caliper and thread gauge in their tool box.

I think I have a Sunshine high-flange rear 5 sp hub in one of my parts boxes. I'll look.

70sSanO

I remembered that Loose Screws also sells on ebay. After you determine if it is 10mm or 3/8", here is the listing...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/26462897655...3ABFBMwMaegIRh

John

smd4

They're not THAT hard. I used a hacksaw to shorten a titanium axle. A little filing and you can't tell it wasn't from the factory.

maddog34

i tend to do some filing to the threads before i remove the cone or nut... a small 1/4 round file usually has an edge sharp enough to clean up a thread... give it a try ! ;-)

veganbikes

You could just have an older computer the ~10 year old laptop I am using right now has problems with some websites and is getting worse but my year or two old desktop is just fine. Typically most of my computers will go for 10+ years and then finally they get so clunky I end up replacing them just so I have more web functionality and such. I probably could crack the ol' gal open and swap some stuff out but considering I got the laptop used at a low cost in excellent condition and I am not good with computer tinkering as I haven't done it in a couple decades I am probably just going to get a new one.

I doubt there is any conspiracy however tech issues are very real.

dsbrantjr

Nope, cones are typically case-hardened steel which is impossible to cut with a tap.

Bill Kapaun

A 1mm thread pitch is 25.4 TPI. Mighty close to 26 TPI.
10mm is .394" vs .375" for 3/8".
ISTR that cones from one will screw on to the other, but not the opposite way?
A 3/8"x 24 (SAE) bolt screws into a 10mm x1mm nut no problem, but not the other way.

CliffordK

Open a text editor, then copy and paste your message into the text editor... until you decide your post has gone been posted.

Note, for the first 2 days you can only do 5 posts a day.

I usually only have to log in once every few months. The system is pretty good at remembering me on my PC, or phone.

As mentioned above, I always click "Remember Me" when logging in.

Be careful of the caps-lock, and be careful of how you enter your password. Write it down if necessary.

CliffordK

I've cut a couple. Possibly a cutoff wheel. It has been a while.

I have a little diamond disc from a chainsaw sharpener at Harbor Freight. I find it handy to polish the ends of cuts like I would get on an axle, or cutting cable housing.

Or polishing tips of tools. It has been quite handy. Unfortunately I don't have a tool rest with it, but may make one sometime.

McCycle

It's been rough living with the imposed 5 posts in 24 hours but the info here makes it worth it.

I did find out that the axle the bike shop sold me is 3/8" x 26TPI, courtesy of my thread gauge.

I have the Shimano one on the way from LooseScrews off eBay.

sch

This is sometimes a problem, as BF has a short attention span and logs you out mid-typing, which it doesn't tell you til you click
submit reply and then wipes out your post. If the back arrow doesn't recover (usually not) you can take the simple precaution of
highlighting your post and doing a copy with Control C and paste when you log back in. This happens to me when I google something
to check a fact or info mid post.

Hondo6

I see no one has said it yet, so: welcome to Bike Forums. Glad to see you already find the site worthwhile.

FWIW: the 5 post daily limit for new members (and 10 post limit for posting links/photos, send/receive PMs, probably a few other things) isn't there to "harass new members" - it's there to keep spammers at bay. You're most of the way towards being able to do those things.

Please do let us know how things turn out with your issue. One thing many people who solicit advice don't do is "close the loop" after fixing their problem. It helps to know what did and didn't work - posting that may help someone else solve the same or a similar problem.