Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Need help with seatpost.

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Need help with seatpost.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-02-22, 03:21 PM
  #1  
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 44

Bikes: Cinelli Mash, Cinelli Vigorelli

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Need help with seatpost.

I have a Steel DeRosa currently with a 27.2 seat post which works fine however I've had people tell me that I'm using the wrong one since the "ears" touch. I personally think that's just the design but unsure. Any thoughts?

Sobeisdead is offline  
Old 11-02-22, 03:39 PM
  #2  
Guest
 
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 2,888
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1346 Post(s)
Liked 3,270 Times in 1,439 Posts
These make it easy to verify the inside diameter of the seat tube. Your LBS should have one you can use.


Rolla is offline  
Old 11-02-22, 04:44 PM
  #3  
Senior Member
 
masi61's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 3,682

Bikes: Puch Marco Polo, Saint Tropez, Masi Gran Criterium

Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1163 Post(s)
Liked 442 Times in 315 Posts
Pinched in like that is not by design. If that HED seatpost is a 27.2, is there a chance that the seat tube had been previously reamed to 27.4mm?
masi61 is offline  
Likes For masi61:
Old 11-02-22, 04:48 PM
  #4  
Sock Puppet
 
Lombard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2022
Location: Planet Earth
Posts: 1,701

Bikes: 2014 Cannondale Synapse Carbon, 2017 Jamis Renegade Exploit and too many others to mention.

Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1031 Post(s)
Liked 863 Times in 573 Posts
If it works fine and doesn't slip, why the concern?
Lombard is offline  
Likes For Lombard:
Old 11-02-22, 04:48 PM
  #5  
I'm good to go!
 
Iride01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 14,986

Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020

Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6193 Post(s)
Liked 4,809 Times in 3,317 Posts
The ears shouldn't touch. So maybe your have the wrong size seat post or the top of the tube and other parts involved have stretched or for some reason the inside radius of the seat tube near the top has gotten larger. Maybe someone incorrectly reamed it.

Another tell is the gap narrows in the slot cut into the seat tube.

However if your saddle is maintaining it's proper height and not slipping, then maybe everything has just enough of what it needs. So then you can just ignore all of us that think it's wrong and thumb your nose at us! <grin>

One issue you might possibly have if the seat post is undersize is that no matter how tight the clamp, the bottom of the seat post might rock back and forth inside the tube as you pedal and cause some squeaks or clicks you may never find.

Last edited by Iride01; 11-02-22 at 04:59 PM.
Iride01 is offline  
Likes For Iride01:
Old 11-02-22, 05:46 PM
  #6  
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 44

Bikes: Cinelli Mash, Cinelli Vigorelli

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by Iride01
The ears shouldn't touch. So maybe your have the wrong size seat post or the top of the tube and other parts involved have stretched or for some reason the inside radius of the seat tube near the top has gotten larger. Maybe someone incorrectly reamed it.

Another tell is the gap narrows in the slot cut into the seat tube.

However if your saddle is maintaining it's proper height and not slipping, then maybe everything has just enough of what it needs. So then you can just ignore all of us that think it's wrong and thumb your nose at us! <grin>

One issue you might possibly have if the seat post is undersize is that no matter how tight the clamp, the bottom of the seat post might rock back and forth inside the tube as you pedal and cause some squeaks or clicks you may never find.

It could be. The frame did come from ebay but they did have all the details like frame size, head tube, backspacing, bb type and of course the seatpost diameter. Everything else checked out so I didn't question the seatpost. I did try a few others and the 27.2 is the one that slipped in with a bit of resistance.

I just don't want this to be a future problem with the bike but i guess if it works it doesn't need fixing .
Sobeisdead is offline  
Old 11-02-22, 05:57 PM
  #7  
Tinker-er
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Mid-Atlantic
Posts: 450

Bikes: 1956 Rudge Sports; 1983 Univega Alpina Uno; 1981 Miyata 610; 1973 Raleigh Twenty; 1994 Breezer Lightning XTR; V4 Yuba Mundo aka "The Schlepper"; 1987 Raleigh "The Edge" Mountain Trials; 1952 R.O. Harrison "Madison"

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 165 Post(s)
Liked 267 Times in 183 Posts
What probably happened is that someone had the wrong size post and they rode with it anyway. You can see the paint cracks in there suggesting that someone put in a slightly larger post, torqued down the binder bolt and slightly bent the collar. After that, you now have the condition that the collar wants a larger post but the appropriate size post now allows the slightly pinched ears to touch. It's good strong steel, so you could have a good shop carefully bend them back. You could also remove the paint from between the ears on the collar which will give you another .5mm so they aren't touching.
PhilFo is offline  
Old 11-02-22, 07:55 PM
  #8  
Old fart
 
JohnDThompson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,784

Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.

Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3588 Post(s)
Liked 3,400 Times in 1,934 Posts
Originally Posted by masi61
Pinched in like that is not by design. If that HED seatpost is a 27.2, is there a chance that the seat tube had been previously reamed to 27.4mm?
Some of the lighter gauge tube sets came with 27.4mm ID seat tubes, e.g. Reynolds 753.
JohnDThompson is offline  
Old 11-02-22, 08:04 PM
  #9  
Senior Member
 
well biked's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 7,487
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 140 Post(s)
Liked 162 Times in 89 Posts
It's very possible to overtighten the bolt and distort the seatlug, as in the photo, even with the correct seatpost diameter. Or maybe the seapost is too small in diameter,, and the seatlug has been distorted to keep the seatpost from slipping. Regardless, the people who have told you that it shouldn't look like this are correct.
well biked is offline  
Likes For well biked:
Old 11-02-22, 08:24 PM
  #10  
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 44

Bikes: Cinelli Mash, Cinelli Vigorelli

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by well biked
It's very possible to overtighten the bolt and distort the seatlug, as in the photo, even with the correct seatpost diameter. Or maybe the seapost is too small in diameter,, and the seatlug has been distorted to keep the seatpost from slipping. Regardless, the people who have told you that it shouldn't look like this are correct.
any recommendations?


I also did do some research on the bike also on Sheldon Browns bike index and found that the DeRosas from that time had a 27.2 seatpost diameter.

Last edited by Sobeisdead; 11-02-22 at 08:36 PM.
Sobeisdead is offline  
Old 11-02-22, 10:14 PM
  #11  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 3,691

Bikes: Too many bikes, too little time to ride

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 430 Post(s)
Liked 460 Times in 318 Posts
It shouldn't look like that but there are reasons why it currently does (already mentioned above). If it's not slipping I wouldn't worry about it.
tFUnK is offline  
Likes For tFUnK:
Old 11-03-22, 07:39 AM
  #12  
I'm good to go!
 
Iride01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 14,986

Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020

Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6193 Post(s)
Liked 4,809 Times in 3,317 Posts
Originally Posted by Sobeisdead
It could be. The frame did come from ebay but they did have all the details like frame size, head tube, backspacing, bb type and of course the seatpost diameter. Everything else checked out so I didn't question the seatpost. I did try a few others and the 27.2 is the one that slipped in with a bit of resistance.
If you ever decide to try new seat posts out, then make certain that the slot cut in the seat tube is open and the side fairly parallel to each other when you try new posts for size. Otherwise you'll not be able to feel the proper fit. The tapered sides of a really large punch can help you open it up to where it needs to be. If you just pry with a screwdriver or something then the seat tube opening might become oval instead of staying round.

But if everything is working together and you aren't having an issue, then there is no reason to change the current setup.
Iride01 is offline  
Likes For Iride01:
Old 11-03-22, 08:52 AM
  #13  
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 44

Bikes: Cinelli Mash, Cinelli Vigorelli

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Thanks a bunch guys for all the Info, it is greatly appreciated!!
Sobeisdead is offline  
Old 11-03-22, 03:59 PM
  #14  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: SW Florida, USA
Posts: 1,286

Bikes: Yes

Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 550 Post(s)
Liked 672 Times in 464 Posts
Originally Posted by SurferRosa
I didn't read the whole thread. Does the seatpost actually measure 27.2mm with a digital caliper?
Don't believe the OP ever stated explicitly that he'd/she'd measured the seatpost itself.

I'd be especially interested in knowing the measured diameter where it's clamped - especially if it's a CF seatpost.

I understand over-torquing CF parts where they are clamped is "not a good thing". And I also understand alloy is often easier to deform than steel.
Hondo6 is offline  
Old 11-03-22, 09:43 PM
  #15  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Northern CA
Posts: 743

Bikes: Cannondale tandems: '92 Road, '97 Mtn. Mongoose 10.9 Ti, Kelly Deluxe, Tommaso Chorus, Cdale MT2000, Schwinn Deluxe Cruiser, Torker Unicycle, among others.

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 279 Post(s)
Liked 207 Times in 129 Posts
Originally Posted by Hondo6
Don't believe the OP ever stated explicitly that he'd/she'd measured the seatpost itself.

I'd be especially interested in knowing the measured diameter where it's clamped - especially if it's a CF seatpost.

I understand over-torquing CF parts where they are clamped is "not a good thing". And I also understand alloy is often easier to deform than steel.
This was my first question. Seatpost actual diameters can vary considerably. So determining the actual diameter of the post is the first step.

Even so, that clamp has flexed enough to cause the paint to chip. Not good. I'd work on getting a better fit so that collar clamps properly. Reaming the seat tube out to fit a 27.4 may be the best option, depending on what 27.4 seatposts are available. The other option is knurling the existing seat post, but this is not an ideal solution (or possible with CF). But would remedy any slipping if the OP were having this problem.
LV2TNDM is offline  
Old 11-03-22, 10:52 PM
  #16  
Senior Member
 
zandoval's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bastrop Texas
Posts: 4,479

Bikes: Univega, Peu P6, Peu PR-10, Ted Williams, Peu UO-8, Peu UO-18 Mixte, Peu Dolomites

Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 966 Post(s)
Liked 1,629 Times in 1,045 Posts
Had this problem a couple of times. On my older bikes who knows just what size seat post they originally had. Especially the French ones. My solution is to first make sure the top of the tube is round and not deformed. I also clean and sand out the top of the tube also using a screw driver to separate the dog ears. I then wrap tape around a dowel to check sizing till I get a good snug fit to both the upper and lower part of the tube. Often they are not the same. I buy a seat post that fits the lower part of the tube and if I have to, I use a beer can shim at the top. On one old bike the dog ears were so deformed and stretched out I used a hack saw blade to open up the space between them.

A few times I have had to buy a 1mm larger aluminum seat post and then resize it using the old file and sandpaper technique.

Youtube: Seatpost Size - From Wrong To Right
__________________
No matter where you're at... There you are... Δf:=f(1/2)-f(-1/2)

Last edited by zandoval; 11-03-22 at 11:00 PM.
zandoval is offline  
Old 11-04-22, 06:08 AM
  #17  
Senior Member
 
grumpus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 1,227
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 499 Post(s)
Liked 432 Times in 332 Posts
Originally Posted by Sobeisdead
I have a Steel DeRosa currently with a 27.2 seat post which works fine however I've had people tell me that I'm using the wrong one since the "ears" touch. I personally think that's just the design but unsure. Any thoughts?
I'd remove the post, insert a large flat bladed screwdriver between the ears from the inside and pry gently* until the faces are parallel, also the slot. Check with a finger for any bumps or jaggies around the slot that need tapping/filing out of the way (there may be a slight ripple around the edge of the lug, but no more than that). Then try a 27.4 seatpost. Or a larger 27.2 seatpost - the current one may be undersized.

* Warning - possibility of paint damage, but you already have some touching up to do so no big deal.
grumpus is online now  
Old 11-04-22, 07:55 AM
  #18  
Keefusb
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Ashland, VA
Posts: 176

Bikes: 60cm 1992 Paramount, 60cm 1995 Cannondale R900 (son's bike), 1994 Cannondale H300 (mine), 1994 Cannondale H300 Killer V (wife's bike), 60 cm 1989 Eddy Merckx Corsa Extra SLX

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 83 Post(s)
Liked 57 Times in 36 Posts
I would remove the binder bolt, carefully open the space between the "ears" and the seat post slot with a screwdriver or similar. Check the consistency of the seat tube inner diameter using calipers. The cheapest and easiest way to get a better fit is to either fabricate or buy some round shims and shim the seat post near the top of the seat tube. Before re-inserting the post and shim(s), clean up any old grease or crud from the inside of the seat tube, and then run some emery cloth around the inside of the seat tube to remove any burrs or sharp edges.

A quality seat post is also a must for these kinds of situations. I recently purchased a cheap no-name alloy seat post for a nice steel road bike. After just a couple of hundred miles, the post began to bend near the top of the seat tube. Aluminium tends to break before it bends excessively, so a new quality seat post (I ended up using a NOS Profile seat post that is identical to one I have been using for 20 years on another steel road bike I have) was very important. After several hundred more miles, the Profile seat post is doing a great job without bending.
Keefusb is offline  
Old 11-04-22, 01:32 PM
  #19  
Senior Member
 
grumpus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 1,227
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 499 Post(s)
Liked 432 Times in 332 Posts
Originally Posted by Keefusb
I would remove the binder bolt, carefully open the space between the "ears" and the seat post slot with a screwdriver or similar. Check the consistency of the seat tube inner diameter using calipers.
A caliper may not give a useful reading - you really need to use a bore gauge to reach below the distortion at the top of the tube.
Originally Posted by Keefusb
The cheapest and easiest way to get a better fit is to either fabricate or buy some round shims and shim the seat post near the top of the seat tube.
The problem with most shims is they don't reach far down the seat tube - ideally the shim would support all of the inserted section of the seatpost. So perhaps the easiest way to get a good fit is to accurately measure the frame and get a decent seatpost that's the right size.
grumpus is online now  
Old 11-04-22, 01:55 PM
  #20  
Keefusb
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Ashland, VA
Posts: 176

Bikes: 60cm 1992 Paramount, 60cm 1995 Cannondale R900 (son's bike), 1994 Cannondale H300 (mine), 1994 Cannondale H300 Killer V (wife's bike), 60 cm 1989 Eddy Merckx Corsa Extra SLX

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 83 Post(s)
Liked 57 Times in 36 Posts
Using a caliper to make several internal diameter readings at various points around the top of the seat tube will tell you how far "out of round" the tube may be. Too far out and it will likely need to be reamed or require additional work to make it round again.

If the measurements show that a reaming may be needed, and you don't have a reamer, using shims may still be the cheapest and easiest way to resolve the problem.
Keefusb is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.