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Adjusting and repacking an SPD MTB pedal

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Adjusting and repacking an SPD MTB pedal

Old 11-15-22, 04:37 PM
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pstock
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Adjusting and repacking an SPD MTB pedal

My pedal seized up on me last week, knocking me out of a group ride.
I've opened it up but cannot figure out how to back off the cones a bit or access the bearings to lube them.

I've read my Zinn manual which shows several pedal styles nine of which match mine.
I've watched the Park video on SPDs but they show an accessible cone nut. .
I don't see one on mine.
How do I attack this?



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Old 11-15-22, 10:36 PM
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Peter?- Looks like a radial contact cartridge bearing which will have no cone, the "lock nut" is only to secure the bearings/axle and has no bearing load aspect.

One trick that I've used for this arrangement is to clean out with solvent all the grease one can w/o taking the bearings apart. Then inject a bunch of grease into the pedal body, where the axle/bearing unit goes. The fresh grease can squeeze out through the bearing seals as you press/screw the axle/bearings back in place. Andy
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Old 11-16-22, 11:25 AM
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Seems I can just knock that inner shaft out of the shiney outer body. It's just a Friction fit inside that bearing.

Is there only a bearing at one end - the outside end?
It looks like a cone shaped but on the inside end of the shaft but I don't see any bearings
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Old 11-16-22, 11:39 AM
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Some low cost pedals use a bushing at the inner/thicker end. While a bushing is a bearing it isn't one with balls. Andy
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Old 11-16-22, 12:40 PM
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SPD refers to 'Shimano Pedaling Dynamics'. These pedals are not Shimano, but one of the innumerable clones. Authentic Shimano cleats may be compatible with these pedals. Or somewhat compatible, as I have found with older Ritchey pedals.

OK: enough of terminology - your pedals have a single cartridge bearing at the end, and a bushing at the near end. The bushing should be lubricated, and could last thousands of miles, but in theory and practice, 'real' bearings (cup and cone or carts both inboard and outboard) are superior in terms of frictional losses and longevity. And adjustability.

This particular cartridge design I recognize as being used by the many Shimano clones over the years. They were OK, but the bushings definitely developed play due to wear faster than Shimano pedals, even the cheapest ones. If you can find the exact cartridge (spindle and bearings), then it is plug and play.

Suggest you cut your losses, and buy some Shimano M520 pedals, one of the great bargains in cycling. The M520's are cheap, relatively light, and almost impossible to kill, apart from major impacts. When the innards of the M520s get dirty or wet, the pedal spindle and bearing 'cartridge' can be removed as a unit and serviced with fresh grease in no time. As in like 5 minutes; I've done it many times on client pedals.

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Old 11-16-22, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart View Post
Peter?- Looks like a radial contact cartridge bearing which will have no cone, the "lock nut" is only to secure the bearings/axle and has no bearing load aspect.

One trick that I've used for this arrangement is to clean out with solvent all the grease one can w/o taking the bearings apart. Then inject a bunch of grease into the pedal body, where the axle/bearing unit goes. The fresh grease can squeeze out through the bearing seals as you press/screw the axle/bearings back in place. Andy
You're right about the first part, in that the outer lock nut is not a cone, but only serves to hold the spindle in place. But the outer cartridge bearing has metal seals on both sides, so it is impossible to squeeze grease through.

That is a key advantage of the Shimano pedals, that you can remove the spindle/bearing 'cartridge', clean out the pedal body cavity, and then put about 1cc of fresh grease at the bottom. Then press the cartridge back into the pedal body, which serves to force all of the old grease out in favor of fresh stuff. Saves a lot of time and fussing with teeny tiny little balls and bearing preload/adjustments. This nice feature is what allows the '5-minute pedal overhaul' I referred to.
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Old 11-20-22, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave Mayer View Post
SPD refers to 'Shimano Pedaling Dynamics'. These pedals are not Shimano, but one of the innumerable clones. Authentic Shimano cleats may be compatible with these pedals. Or somewhat compatible, as I have found with older Ritchey pedals.
.
Good point (about terminology)
and Good tips for moving forward.
​​​​​​i just don't like tossing bike parts (or appliances or anything else for that matter ) that is salvageable.
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Old 11-23-22, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by pstock View Post
​​​​​​i just don't like tossing bike parts (or appliances or anything else for that matter ) that is salvageable.
Salvageable? Clean (no new grease) and put the pedal cartridges back together and tighten the outer lock nut. Then check for play between the pedal axle and the cartridge body; wiggle it back and forth. If there is any detectable play, then the bushing on the cartridge is kaput - unsalvageable. Since these pedals do not have (real) inner bearings, and only a lubricated bushing, when the bushing gets worn, the cartridges are done.

As I stated earlier, you may be able to find replacement complete cartridges - somewhere deep in the back of an at least 30-year old bike shop. Or my garage. But unlikely, and unlikely it is worth the cost and effort for what was a $30 pedal set.
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Old 12-01-22, 07:31 PM
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just to close the loop here, after 2 weeks soaking in diesel fuel I reassembled the pedal and..... it spun like a top.
virtually friction-free
so, another pedals saved from landfill.
many thanks again to you all.
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