Installing a cheap carbon fork. Is this normal?
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Installing a cheap carbon fork. Is this normal?
Trying to replace an old and heavy suspension fork with a cheap Toseek carbon 27.5 fork.
The steerer has two "ridges" at the bottom, the last one prevents the bottom fork crown race to go all the way down.
Is this normal? Shall I file the ridges off or just force the crown race down?

The steerer has two "ridges" at the bottom, the last one prevents the bottom fork crown race to go all the way down.
Is this normal? Shall I file the ridges off or just force the crown race down?


#2
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The race should be a firm press fit. You need to support the race evenly so it's dead square as you press it on - if it tilts as in your picture it can dig in, not go on and damage the fork. It might help to gently smooth the carbon with a fine abrasive, but as I can't see/feel what the fit is like I can't recommend it.
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The race should be a firm press fit. You need to support the race evenly so it's dead square as you press it on - if it tilts as in your picture it can dig in, not go on and damage the fork. It might help to gently smooth the carbon with a fine abrasive, but as I can't see/feel what the fit is like I can't recommend it.
I can push it diwn and make it sit square only using my fingers and no tools, though I can't make it go down all the way.
I see youtube videos where they use an extendable race that can be pushed down. Check after 2:40.
Here is mine, still not sure if this is how it is supposed to be or shall I try to get it all the way down.

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I'd use a crown race setter with the appropriate diameter and interface. Not worth buying one, IMO, but your LBS can do it in about a minute. Finger-tight isn't how you want it.
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Anyway, problem solved now. I figured out that the fork/headset are built to support riders heavier than myself, so I just put the fork into the headset, loaded it with my weight and the race snapped to the bottom of the fork. All is nice and flash now.
Thank you anyway.
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It's an interference fit, so a decent amount of force is called for.
You can use a short length of faced steel pipe as a slide hammer to do the job.
You can use a short length of faced steel pipe as a slide hammer to do the job.
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Used fingers only to avoid unnecessary damage from rushing, smashing or pressing things harder than needed.
Anyway, problem solved now. I figured out that the fork/headset are built to support riders heavier than myself, so I just put the fork into the headset, loaded it with my weight and the race snapped to the bottom of the fork. All is nice and flash now.
Thank you anyway.
Anyway, problem solved now. I figured out that the fork/headset are built to support riders heavier than myself, so I just put the fork into the headset, loaded it with my weight and the race snapped to the bottom of the fork. All is nice and flash now.
Thank you anyway.
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Agree in general, but in this particular case the crown race is designed to press against the sealed bearings when we cycle, right? The riders's weight is creating this pressure, so it's supposed to withstand a lot of stress.
Or did I get it wrong?
Anyway, all seems to be good in a visual inspection.
Or did I get it wrong?
Anyway, all seems to be good in a visual inspection.
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Agree in general, but in this particular case the crown race is designed to press against the sealed bearings when we cycle, right? The riders's weight is creating this pressure, so it's supposed to withstand a lot of stress.
Or did I get it wrong?
Anyway, all seems to be good in a visual inspection.
Or did I get it wrong?
Anyway, all seems to be good in a visual inspection.
That said, I've installed a few races without a tool. Frankly, I never thought of doing it your way and probably would have tried it if I had. But what I've done is I slide them down the steer tube as far as I can by hand, keeping it squared up to the steer tube. I've then seated it by tapping with a wooden stick or dowel and hammer very carefully and in very small increments, slowly and evenly around the race, keeping it squared up, Tiny taps, very evenly. It's actually not that hard to do it, patience and common sense involved. It's pretty crucial to keep it very squared up, because if it gets angled too much it binds. You just have to work your way around bit by bit. A tool would definitely be more fool proof and easier.
Last edited by Camilo; 11-23-22 at 12:01 AM.
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Not at all. The only issue might have been starting it at an angle.
In fact, it's not at all rare for headsets that weren't pressed in all the way, to settle over the first few rides.
In fact, it's not at all rare for headsets that weren't pressed in all the way, to settle over the first few rides.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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Agree in general, but in this particular case the crown race is designed to press against the sealed bearings when we cycle, right? The riders's weight is creating this pressure, so it's supposed to withstand a lot of stress.
Or did I get it wrong?
Anyway, all seems to be good in a visual inspection.
Or did I get it wrong?
Anyway, all seems to be good in a visual inspection.