Shimano 11s Bottom Bracket & Crankset Installation - Noob Questions
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Shimano 11s Bottom Bracket & Crankset Installation - Noob Questions
I have just installed a bottom bracket (BB-R9100, threaded) and a crankset (FC-R7000) onto a 2000 CAAD4 following these instructions: DM-RAFC001-04-ENG.pdf (shimano.com).
Everything seems to have fit together correctly, but I have two questions:
(1) After tightening the two bolts (at the BB end) of the left crank arm, there is still a gap that is wider than the stopper plate, such that the stopper plate does not touch both sides. Is this normal?
(2) The crankset spins OK, as in, after I flick it fairly hard, it only goes 1.25 revolutions. On my other bike (BB30A), the crank spins the same amount with pedals, chain, and cassette installed. Is this normal?
Thank you.
Everything seems to have fit together correctly, but I have two questions:
(1) After tightening the two bolts (at the BB end) of the left crank arm, there is still a gap that is wider than the stopper plate, such that the stopper plate does not touch both sides. Is this normal?
(2) The crankset spins OK, as in, after I flick it fairly hard, it only goes 1.25 revolutions. On my other bike (BB30A), the crank spins the same amount with pedals, chain, and cassette installed. Is this normal?
Thank you.
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1. Sounds normal. That plate is designed so it can be locked after you tighten the bolts.
2. New seals will put a fair amount of drag on the crank. Did you tighten the adjuster with the provided plastic tool, or something with more torque?
2. New seals will put a fair amount of drag on the crank. Did you tighten the adjuster with the provided plastic tool, or something with more torque?
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The aforementioned long story: After the first time I installed the crankset, the two crank arms look slightly off, as though they were not 180 degrees from each other. Based on the aforementioned gap, I thought I must have misaligned the crank arms by a spline, so I uninstalled, and then reinstalled, the left crank arm. It turned out to be an optical illusion caused by the fact that the face of the right crank arm is not left/right symmetrical. Looking at the back of the right crank arm, there is more material to the right than the left of the chain drop pin.
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There's nothing wrong with the green grease on the spindle or on the inner bearing sleeve. It's mainly for preventing corrosion and facilitating disassembly. The spindle should turn the bearing, not spin inside the bearing inner sleeve. And "finger tight" means just tight enough that the spindle doesn't slide sideways between the bearings. Sometimes new seals are a little sticky.
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