Hayes Caliper Issue
07-31-05, 02:31 AM
#1
Toyota Racing Dev.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Knoxville, TN baby!
Posts: 3,339
Bikes: 2004 Kona Hoss Dee-Lux
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Hayes Caliper Issue
I took the front wheel off my bike to put in my friend's vehicle, somehow the lever got pushed, now the pads won't seperate as far...I know what happened, is there anyway to fix this without having the brakes bled?
07-31-05, 04:45 AM
#2
POWERCRANK addict
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: North Acton, West London, UK
Posts: 3,783
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
jam a clean/non-greasy flat bladed screw driver in the crack and then twist the handle to separate the pads. Personally I've never tried it but that seems to be the standard answer on BF.
__________________
shameless POWERCRANK plug
Recommended reading for all cyclists - Cyclecraft - Effective Cycling
Condor Cycles - quite possibly the best bike shop in London
Don't run red lights, wear a helmet, use hand signals, get some cycle lights(front and rear) and, FFS, don't run red lights!
shameless POWERCRANK plug
Recommended reading for all cyclists - Cyclecraft - Effective Cycling
Condor Cycles - quite possibly the best bike shop in London
Don't run red lights, wear a helmet, use hand signals, get some cycle lights(front and rear) and, FFS, don't run red lights!
07-31-05, 09:51 AM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,191
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 114 Post(s)
Liked 119 Times
in
92 Posts
I've stroked my Hayes out a couple of times - it's no big deal.
1 - If you have a small gap, wedge something "soft" in there. I'd advise against a screwdriver or metal tool, for fear it may gouge the pads. I use the black spacer with wedge shaped edges that came with the bike (the item you're supposed to jam between the pads when the wheel is not in place to prevent stroking).
2- If you don't have any clearance, you'll need to work a thin sheet in there, like a credit card, then widen it with two credit cards, and progressively enlarge it.
I've been lucky to only have to deal with #1 (some gap present). The problem was after I widened the gap and inserted the wheel, the brakes rubbed more than usual. So I had to remove the pads, spread the pistons completely, insert the wheel, and operate the levers to rebalance the pads. It's not a big deal if you're in the garage, but not fun if on the trails.
When I remove the wheel, I always insert that black plastic spacer to prevent stroking. For some odd reason, I always find myself squeezing the brake levers when I'm moving my bike from from truck to garage, or when the bike is on the repair stand. It's like a natual reaction, and I don't think I realize I do it until it's too late.
1 - If you have a small gap, wedge something "soft" in there. I'd advise against a screwdriver or metal tool, for fear it may gouge the pads. I use the black spacer with wedge shaped edges that came with the bike (the item you're supposed to jam between the pads when the wheel is not in place to prevent stroking).
2- If you don't have any clearance, you'll need to work a thin sheet in there, like a credit card, then widen it with two credit cards, and progressively enlarge it.
I've been lucky to only have to deal with #1 (some gap present). The problem was after I widened the gap and inserted the wheel, the brakes rubbed more than usual. So I had to remove the pads, spread the pistons completely, insert the wheel, and operate the levers to rebalance the pads. It's not a big deal if you're in the garage, but not fun if on the trails.
When I remove the wheel, I always insert that black plastic spacer to prevent stroking. For some odd reason, I always find myself squeezing the brake levers when I'm moving my bike from from truck to garage, or when the bike is on the repair stand. It's like a natual reaction, and I don't think I realize I do it until it's too late.
07-31-05, 04:06 PM
#4
Toyota Racing Dev.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Knoxville, TN baby!
Posts: 3,339
Bikes: 2004 Kona Hoss Dee-Lux
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
thanks guys...I guess I'll get a deck of playing cards and work them apart. thanks for the info.
07-31-05, 05:15 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,191
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 114 Post(s)
Liked 119 Times
in
92 Posts
Also, I have a couple of those credit card type hotel keys that I've acquired here and there and keep them in my tool box just to help spread calipers.
07-31-05, 08:00 PM
#6
Toyota Racing Dev.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Knoxville, TN baby!
Posts: 3,339
Bikes: 2004 Kona Hoss Dee-Lux
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I used a deck of playing cards til I couldn't fit anymore in. I then inserted a butter knife with my bare hands, then inserted another one and tapped it in with a hammer. I pumped the lever about 10 times and the brakes are back to acting correctly.
07-31-05, 11:01 PM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,191
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 114 Post(s)
Liked 119 Times
in
92 Posts
Good deal - you're back in action. Stroking the brake pistons is a real nuisance. I did it once on the trail (when I was making an adjustment). It was a real drag finding things in my Camelback to spread the calipers. Anyway, now you're less likely to do it and if you do, you'll know how to fix it.
