juntjoo

I even attached a nut underneath to that bolt. It doesn't stay tight I guess the word is radially and flares out or in. What's the trick? Or should I take a closer pic? Looks like a standard kick stand if I've ever seen one. Secured by only that bolt plus my useless nut. When I added the nut some time ago I think might have considered finding a nut with ribs underneath but never ordered one. Maybe that would do the trick? But apparently it wasn't designed to require a nut to stay put. Maybe I just need more torque on it?

Andrew R Stewart 

For as common and simple a kickstand is it's still sad that they seem to be an after thought in how they are installed and fit. The imaged one seems to be a stamped steel style. These often don't have the truly flat interface with the frame, in fact many steel examples have a curved top surface to fit up and between the stays. If these were mounted on a frame with a flat plate braze on the two won't play nice.

Another common problem is when the frame's mounting plate has become distorted/deformed and a flat top kick stand won't sit flush and tight, it will rock about no matter how tight the mounting bolt is. The way I fix this is to whack the mounting plate with a hammer to drive the downward bulge (I can't remember ever seeing a deformation in the other direction) up. I remove the KS, place the ball end of a ball peen hammer against the mounting plate centered on the bolt's hole and with another hammer strike the ball peen one and thus reform the plate. If one "over forms" the plate it will contact the kickstand top along the edges and better hold it.

Most mounting plates have a few bent tabs on the outer edges in an attempt to position and hold the kickstand's top from rotating with each deployment of the stand. If the stand's top and the plate's tabs don't touch these tabs are doing nothing. Sometimes one can, again with a hammer but now using a punch, bend in the tabs a bit more to better grab the top's edges.

These stamped steel stands suffer from poor construction and often will have the pivot loosen and not hold the shaft in place, either when up or down. One can sometimes bend the folded/stamped top to better allow the shaft to notch into the top's shaped positions. I find that the Greenfield, cast Al, stands work far better than the stamped steel styles.

Here's a shot on how I made the only bike I have with a kickstand fit tight and not move about. The two little fingers (there are two more on the other side of the top) are placed so the stand will only fit if the top has has some slight filing at the tabs' contact points. There is ZERO stand rotation in use and I fine tuned the stand's shaft WRT the chain stay by which tabs had the filed relieves done. Andy

squirtdad

If it threads and is not stripped and just loosens with time and vibrations, maybe some loctite

Trakhak

If you haven't greased the bolt threads, grease them and then try tightening the bolt again.

Iride01 

My worry with Loctite will be that if it is the stamped steel bending then it'll need retightening again later. So probably shouldn't use the permanent stuff.

I'd maybe try a locknut, either steel or nyloc. Likely they only have a normal nut with a lock washer which won't do well on a surface that might be flexing under it.

If you only get off the bike when back at the house, then just consider losing the kick stand and getting a stand to put the bike in or just leaning against the wall.

curbtender

You have a lock washer on it? Seeing that it mounts on it's own bridge you should be able to torque it up.

SurferRosa

Maybe the Universe wants you to remove it alltogether.

veganbikes

I would ditch it in the trash where it belongs. If I had to keep it I would use a lock washer and grease it properly or use a medium thread locking compound (typically blue in color but not always) but really I would toss it and if I absolutely had to have a kickstand Greenfield is the only option for non-electric bikes. They aren't great but really any center mount single bolt kickstand isn't but in the end they are long lasting reliable and have excellent support. However if I am locking up a bike, which on that I might just let the thief have it, I would not want or need the kickstand as it would push the bike away from what I am locking too or just be in the way. Your rear wheel has a rubber tire and that rubber will act as a natural sort of kickstand when you lean it against something.

The only bikes I would consider a kickstand on are Cargo bikes and electric bikes. Maybe a touring bike as I know some touring cyclists like them and for loading a lot of stuff yeah not a bad deal but beyond that I really don't want one. It is extra weight and another thing to go wrong and in the case of say a mountain bike it is downright dangerous if it deploys while riding some rough terrain. If I am storing a bike on the ground at home I will just use a bike stand of some sort like Willworx or something like this Minoura or one of the fork stands I have from Specialized our old shop was getting rid of after 10 years or one of the many others on the market.

rumrunn6

fwiw, if you don't mind paying a cpl bucks to replace something you already have, I'm very fond of this style, which I have on 2 bikes. wouldn't put something like this on my road bike (which has nothing), but he MTB & another bike (which is hard characterize) have them
easy to install. easy to adjust. never requires maintenance

Lumintrail Rear Mount Adjustable Height Bicycle Kickstand for Road & Mountain Bike, Fits Bikes 24-28 Inch Wheels

JoeTBM 

Agree with checking for a lock washer. You can also try a longer bolt with a top mounting plate , easier to torque up with a wrench.