Locktite on tubeless valve stems?
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Locktite on tubeless valve stems?
my first wheel I used a Stans value and really tightened it down after a ride or it has not lost air in am month. the second wheel I used muc-off valve as I was told the Stans can pull through. it came loose a few times and I finally used some lcoktite on it. the Stans find;ly came loose I checked it when I noticed the tire was low after the last ride. so I used locktite on it. is this normal? the next set of wheels I jut used locktite right away.
Last edited by fooferdoggie; 01-27-23 at 01:46 PM.
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my first wheel I sued a Stans value and really tightened it down after a ride r tow it has not lost air in am month. the second wheel I used s muc-off valve as I was told the Stans can pull through. it came loose a few times and I finally used some lcoktite on it. the Stans find;ly came loose I checked it when I noticed the tire was low after the last ride. so I used locktite on it. is this normal? the next set of wheels I jut used locktite right away.
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I've suspected that the valve base is somewhat compressible and with initial use there is some settling in that needs to be taken up. Or perhaps the valve base shape is not the best fit for the rim's internal shape. Either way i would avoid going to such a pain in the butt reversable method. Andy
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I thin k it is worse on the muc-off as the face of the nut is hollow for a o ring. the blue locktite is easy but a easier way it to just use another nut and tighten them together, but I find if the valves stay tight I don't lose any air. I went a month on the back without adding air till the valve came loose.
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The trick is to push the rubber grommet/seal with as much force as you can muster "into" the valve stem hole from the other side of the rim as you tighten the presta nut, as you're installing the valve stem in the first place. When you think it's tight enough, take a breath, push as hard as you can on the rubber grommet again with your thumb, and try and tighten the nut a little more. I have approximately a million miles on tubeless tires personally, and I also own a bike shop where we have set up what must be thousands of tubeless tires for customers. The presta nut loosening is never, ever a problem if you have reasonably strong hands and fingers, and know this little trick. Pliers? Loctite? Not necessary at all.
Last edited by well biked; 01-27-23 at 08:54 PM.
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Another lesson learned when I did my second bike at my shop the rim was at most 60 degrees and I had a hell of a time getting the dt-swiss tape to stick to it or its self. I bet I have to replace the tape at some time. I was surprised both tires I changed to were easier to get on then the wire bead tires they replaced.
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foofer, I feel your pain.
I also have had a rough time with tubeless.
Something I don't see in these conversations - what if you have offset rims? My sole experience with tubeless has been with our Bontrager offset rims. Because of the offset profile, the valve stem nut only contacts the rim on one side.
I bought the official Bontrager tubeless kits for our bikes (wife and me). Goop, valve stems, and thick plastic rim strip. The Bontrager rim strips have a little recess that's supposed to hold the valve stem in place but the recess is shallow and the valve stem will pop out of the recess with little effort. A person can try pushing from the back during installation but because of the offset rim and poor contact with the valve stem nut it all seems shaky. I tried double-nutting the valve stem but no matter what I did the valve stem would leak air with just a nudge of a finger. Not confidence-inspiring.
I also have had a rough time with tubeless.
Something I don't see in these conversations - what if you have offset rims? My sole experience with tubeless has been with our Bontrager offset rims. Because of the offset profile, the valve stem nut only contacts the rim on one side.
I bought the official Bontrager tubeless kits for our bikes (wife and me). Goop, valve stems, and thick plastic rim strip. The Bontrager rim strips have a little recess that's supposed to hold the valve stem in place but the recess is shallow and the valve stem will pop out of the recess with little effort. A person can try pushing from the back during installation but because of the offset rim and poor contact with the valve stem nut it all seems shaky. I tried double-nutting the valve stem but no matter what I did the valve stem would leak air with just a nudge of a finger. Not confidence-inspiring.
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they are standard rims. it seems I have it though. what they need is a curved one way washer before the nut. the Stans valve went a month before loosening I never lost air the whole time. its not really a big deal and most like just not tight enough the videos you see don't really indicate how tight they need to be.
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I've mostly used Stan's tubeless valves since 2012 when I first started using tubeless road tires.
I always had to tighten them down with pliers so they would loose air.
That forced me to carry small pair with me on rides in case I had to installed an inner tube in a torn tubeless tire.
I agree that a lot has to do with the rim profile as how well the valve seals to the rim
I always had to tighten them down with pliers so they would loose air.
That forced me to carry small pair with me on rides in case I had to installed an inner tube in a torn tubeless tire.
I agree that a lot has to do with the rim profile as how well the valve seals to the rim