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Switching from QR to bolt-on axle

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Switching from QR to bolt-on axle

Old 02-01-23, 12:49 PM
  #26  
Kontact
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Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart View Post
One of the issues that I sometimes have here is the difference between what the manufacturer and what some posters say is OK to do. This case of attaching a ft basket strut to a QR secured axle (and not onto a nutted axle) is such an example.

As the guy who had a target on their back for over 45 years (the target is called liability insurance and pretty much required for any true business) I made thousands of such decisions for my customers. What guided me through the possibilities of solutions (to a problem) and to what I was willing to do was considering the worse case scenarios and choosing to avoid them to the best of my ability.

Here we are asked about attaching an accessory (from a manufacturer other than the bike's) to the wheel that controls the bike's steering and control. Worst case might be the basket strut becoming loose from the QR/axle (and the number of cases of ft wheel loss during riding was what drove the CPSC to mandate secondary retention [dropout tabs as example] a requirement). This worse case might be from poor QR use, the QR end caps not fitting the strut and it's larger axle hole or some other reason. I can easily see a situation where that now freely hanging strut, from the bottom of the basket, gets entangled in the spokes and acts as a sudden lock up brake to the ft wheel. (Any one here ever watch the race scene from "Breaking Away"?). Remember that the basket will often be loaded with stuff further adding to the total weight acting on those struts. Also remember that most riders tend to take a plug and play view of this stuff and do little or no follow up monitoring or checking of attachment after initial use.

Were this to be a rear rack or rear mounted basket I would be FAR less concerned as a locked up rear wheel has a FAR less effect of steering control. But on the front, no thanks.

Related but not asked is the basket's sturdiness and stiffness. While there have been thousands of Wald (and other brands) baskets (ft and rear) sold and installed over the decades some of us have worked the LBS enough to have seen many failures too. Bad strut connections, ft baskets pressing on control cables, cracked and broken struts (usually right at the hole that was used to attach with). Thankfully I don't remember many crashes from this, as reported by customers. Still I am not one to suggest anyone else be the rider when the small odds come to be.

The best suggestion in this thread is to get a basket that is meant to better fit the OP's bike. The worst suggestions are to monkey rig the basket to what it is not intended to fit.

Please note that I have been careful to not use personal attacks or make claims of posters' personal traits. This subject is not worth getting mad about bit is VERY much worth getting right. Andy
I dont disagree with the care you're approaching this topic.

My perspective on this very specific case is that the rack struts will never transmit enough downward force to affect the skewer, even if the skewer is so loose that the wheel would fall out. The aforementioned rack legs simply arent that stiff. And the strut holes arent so large that the QR head will engage them unevenly.

In contrast, using P clips on a front rack is a potential disaster due to the small hardware/big hole and the ability to rotate around the fork and into the hub.


But let's step back a second here and think of the bigger picture. To replace the axle, the OP is going to have to rebuild the front hub. What happens if that goes wrong?

And I can't speak for anyone else but my experience is that hub nuts are routinely tightened incorrectly because of their tendency to creep while tightening and wrenches to slip on damaged nuts.

So my suggestion wasnt so much an anything goes attitude as much as thinking about all the things that could go wrong vs making the minimum change and using what the OP is already familiar with. Because any of these solutions offer the opportunity to screw up.
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Old 02-02-23, 09:01 AM
  #27  
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Kontact and Koyote

You two guys need to find a way to get along. You have clearly disrupted this OP‘s thread. I would suggest you both use the ignore list, but if you insist and continue with hostilities all around the Forums, then the MOD staff will be forced to get . . . . unpleasant.
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Old 02-02-23, 10:11 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by BillyD View Post
Kontact and Koyote

You two guys need to find a way to get along. You have clearly disrupted this OPs thread. I would suggest you both use the ignore list, but if you insist and continue with hostilities all around the Forums, then the MOD staff will be forced to get . . . . unpleasant.
Just fyi, Billy: If you look back, you'll notice that I took your advice a couple days ago. I'm not responding any more.
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Old 02-02-23, 10:31 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by BillyD View Post
I would suggest you both use the ignore list, but ....
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Old 02-02-23, 10:29 PM
  #30  
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How about this? Leave the hub alone and buy a pair of "P" clamps to connect the rack stanchions to the bottom of the fork blades?
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Old 02-02-23, 10:40 PM
  #31  
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The issue I see is that the lawyer lips (if present) will interfere with mating the rack stays to the fork in a way that allows for properly tightening either a QR or nutted axle.
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Old 02-02-23, 11:01 PM
  #32  
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I have tried to see the actual basket (not the Wald one that I and others have referenced) strut's design. So I think we have insufficient info to do more than speculate, which I've done. Still my concerns about compatibility and long term reliability continue. Andy
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Old 02-02-23, 11:39 PM
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This site has decent photos.

https://www.basil.com/en/portland-bi...ket-black.html
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