MilanS

So i have recently aquired a really cheap bike, the only downside being that the only way of braking is by paddling backwards and even then it sometimes takes upwards of a full rotation for it to work meaning it does not allow for a quick stop if needed.
However i do still have a pair of cantilever brakes lying around. The problem with this is that the bike in question just has straight forks and therefore has no easy way of connecting the brakes to the frame. Is it still possible to install the brakes by directly drilling them straight into the frontfork or does this simply mean i shouldnt install them to this particular bike?
And are there any other brake types i can install on a frame without any mounts for them?

HelpSingularity 

I would vote for "shouldnt install them to this particular bike".

ClydeClydeson

You should not put the cantilever brakes on this bike - cantilever brakes require mounts built into the fork. It is possible to

It may be possible to mount a caliper brake on the front - is there a hole in the fork above the front wheel? If so, you can probably get a brake caliper and mount that and a lever on the handlebars.

Here's an example:
Supercycle Short Alloy Bike Brake Caliper w/Brake Pads, 35-mm, 51-mm | Canadian Tire

You need to measure the distance from the mounting hole in the fork to the braking surface of the rim and find brake calipers with 'reach' that will work with this dimension. The ones I linked have reach between 31mm and 51mm.

The only other snag I can think of is that the rim must have a flat sidewall that can be used as a braking surface.

maddog34

Get a better bike.
;-)

MilanS

Well its just for short commutes between my university and the train station (5 minutes or so). So i really dont need much also im broke lol

MilanS

This bike currently does not have any connection mounts or holes no even the lock i had to drill holes for. However i could drill a hole in the fork for the type of brake you recommend

andrewclaus

Is there a bike co-op near you? They'll show you how to rebuild the coaster brake so it works properly.

JohnDThompson 

Agree that doing a proper job of installing cantilevers on a bike not designed to use cantilevers would not be cost-effective. Why not simply install a caliper rim brake or two? The only contraindication would be if your rims lack a proper brake track.

N.B. if you only use one caliper, put it on the front.

SoSmellyAir

I do not understand why a bike lock requires one to drill holes in a bike frame. Extra holes in the frame adversely affect its structural integrity.

dsbrantjr

I wonder whether the reaction arm for your coaster brake has come loose from its strap. If so, attaching it may restore braking function.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/coaster....html#reaction

maddog34

i too am broke... and not just financially... log trucks kill people.... some then wake up and scare the crap outta the EMTs.

maddog34

OR someone tried to work on the bike that shouldn't have tools then the jam nut loosened, allowing the brake arm to move away from the hub's bearing cone and increase rotation arc needed to engage the brake....... while simultaneously widening the Frame at the Rear dropouts, which, in turn, makes working on the rear wheel a serious pain.......

MilanS... take the bike to a Co-Op, throw your pride in the trash can, and beg for help before you get hurt because the stupid Coaster brake doesn't work... signed: Ayco Opowner.

PS... i've been known give away decent bikes when people tore down a few bikes for me, or sorted out parts for a day....... wink, wink.
And no, my shop is nowhere near a commuter train line.

Andrew R Stewart 

If the reaction arm was not attached to the stay it can rotate with braking action and seriously affect the bearing adjustment. The arm is connected to the LH bearing cone. The unwanted arm rotation will loosen the bearing adjustment and thus the crank will need to be rotated backwards further than if the bearing adjustment was good.

Andrew R Stewart 

So, all fork crowns with a brake bolt hole are doomed? I have to say that I can't remember ever seeing a fork failure due to a brake caliper mounting hole. (I have seen a number of other reasons why a fork goes bad though). Andy

SoSmellyAir

Huh? When did I mention a fork crown or brake bolt holes therein?

OP mentioned "the lock [OP] had to drill holes for", and my comment about "extra holes" obviously refer to the holes OP drilled for the lock, or at most holes which were not intended by the manufacturer. Hopefully I can venture that most, if not all, brake bolt holes in fork crowns were intended or at least accounted for by the manufacturer. But the OP's bike is doomed if he keeps drilling holes while asking for confirmation on BF.

Andrew R Stewart 

I should have added a smile emoji as my comment about crown holes was a bit tongue in cheek. But I was following the OP's reference to the straight fork blades.

But to the holes for a lock- many thousands of bikes (likely most in Europe) have had a rear wheel "horseshoe" lock that bolts to the seat stays. That we don't hear of those frames failing due to these and the numbers that have had these locks for how many decades I will venture that these lock mounting holes are OK. I am not a fan of these locks for high security use, one can just carry the bike away and work on the lock later. Andy

SoSmellyAir

No worries, I did not realize we were referencing different portions of the OP's posts.

How about drilling some extra holes for weight reduction?