What tool to disassemble a Shimano Dura Ace FH-7400 freehub?
#1
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What tool to disassemble a Shimano Dura Ace FH-7400 freehub?
What tool is required to DISASSEMBLE a Shimano Dura Ace FH-7400 freehub? I already have a TL-FH10 freehub body removal tool.
Last edited by johnlink; 02-02-23 at 03:58 PM.
#2
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The video shows how to remove the cogs. I know how to do that, and it's NOT the problem about which I requested help.
#4
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The video deals with a freehub other than FH-7400 and RJ made his own freehub-removal tool, which I'd rather avoid.
#5
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a lot of people do have that problem either specifically for the Uniglide stuff or in general on more modern stuff. Here is an old thread for reading purposes which will help out on removal: Dura Ace 7400-era freehub removal and reinstallation - how? (keep in mind the thread is from 2019 so I would keep new posts to this thread)
It sounds like you have the tool so you should be fairly set but I haven't had to remove one as my 7400 was still freewheel so that was an easy rebuild and the 6400 tricolor UG hub I believe used the 10mm or maybe even larger hex wrench and we were able to replace it with an LX freehub body from the early 90s we had and it worked but that was many years ago and I think it was just unthread and rethread I don't think it was too much fuss maybe just a little muscle.
#6
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I know how to remove both the cogs and the freehub. My question is about the DISASSEMBLY of the freehub.
#8
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It dissambles like RJ utube I do not think Shimano made the tool for sale you have to make it out of a socket it unscrews clockwise the innards look like RJ u tube. If it isent laced to a wheel, will be verry dificult to remove. dissamblr the axel , remove the drive side seal (be carfel you dont bend it) loosen the race then loosen the freehub body and remove. put it over a large pan and remove the race. remove the body. You should get a small jar of Drumonde free hub grease at the LBS to reassemble it. If you use regular greese on the palws they might stiick in cold wearher. good luck
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#10
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I took a stab at it, and was wrong.
I will refund the entire payment you made for my incorrect advise.
Have a nice day
Barry
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I can sell you a 7400 freehub body for cheap.
The non-driveside inner races look like crap.
If I recall correctly, the freehub looks fine.
Need to dig about for it, if you're interested.
Thinking like $25 shipped. I'd ship you the entire hub.
The non-driveside inner races look like crap.
If I recall correctly, the freehub looks fine.
Need to dig about for it, if you're interested.
Thinking like $25 shipped. I'd ship you the entire hub.
#12
Senior Member
I have disassembled several Dura-Ace 740X freehubs. These are among the few Shimano freehubs that are worth the effort, as most freehubs are inexpensive and common.
First, leave remove all of the hub guts including the axle, bearings etc. Leave the freehub attached to the hub. Use a metal punch to remove the outer bearing cup - by rotating clockwise. Yes, it is reverse threaded.
The cup and 2 slots are made of very hard metal, I've never come close to doing damage. A good precaution is to marinate the cup threads with penetrating oil in advance.
When the hub shell is loose, be prepared for a cascade of tiny ball bearings. Do not lose or damage the paper-thin shims that sit under the outer cup.
First, leave remove all of the hub guts including the axle, bearings etc. Leave the freehub attached to the hub. Use a metal punch to remove the outer bearing cup - by rotating clockwise. Yes, it is reverse threaded.
The cup and 2 slots are made of very hard metal, I've never come close to doing damage. A good precaution is to marinate the cup threads with penetrating oil in advance.
When the hub shell is loose, be prepared for a cascade of tiny ball bearings. Do not lose or damage the paper-thin shims that sit under the outer cup.
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#13
Full Member
Thread Starter
I have disassembled several Dura-Ace 740X freehubs. These are among the few Shimano freehubs that are worth the effort, as most freehubs are inexpensive and common.
First, leave remove all of the hub guts including the axle, bearings etc. Leave the freehub attached to the hub. Use a metal punch to remove the outer bearing cup - by rotating clockwise. Yes, it is reverse threaded.
The cup and 2 slots are made of very hard metal, I've never come close to doing damage. A good precaution is to marinate the cup threads with penetrating oil in advance.
When the hub shell is loose, be prepared for a cascade of tiny ball bearings. Do not lose or damage the paper-thin shims that sit under the outer cup.
First, leave remove all of the hub guts including the axle, bearings etc. Leave the freehub attached to the hub. Use a metal punch to remove the outer bearing cup - by rotating clockwise. Yes, it is reverse threaded.
The cup and 2 slots are made of very hard metal, I've never come close to doing damage. A good precaution is to marinate the cup threads with penetrating oil in advance.
When the hub shell is loose, be prepared for a cascade of tiny ball bearings. Do not lose or damage the paper-thin shims that sit under the outer cup.