Derailleur Adjustments Can't Eliminate Chain Rub/ Front Derailleur Cage Possibly Bent
#26
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Thread Starter
It's been a couple of days since you originally posted. Heck, many of us comment more than 10 times per day! Stick your nose into threads that interest you and make comments or questions. Get on it, mara777 !! 
That said, when I was kind of new to FD adjusting, I would chase adjustments around and get frustrated. Then I learned that it works really well to completely disconnect the derailleur from the cable and completely re-adjust it starting from step one in the manufacturer's guidelines: alignment, height, limit screws, cable attachment and tension. Everything, not skipping any step. You won't overlook anything and might get some insights that help you do minor tweaks in the future.

That said, when I was kind of new to FD adjusting, I would chase adjustments around and get frustrated. Then I learned that it works really well to completely disconnect the derailleur from the cable and completely re-adjust it starting from step one in the manufacturer's guidelines: alignment, height, limit screws, cable attachment and tension. Everything, not skipping any step. You won't overlook anything and might get some insights that help you do minor tweaks in the future.
Thank you so much for your advice! I had to sit down and actually write everything out to understandable the terminology better, and also find some written directions instead of watching videos, because it was getting frustrating to keep searching the videos for the exact step I was confused about/continue to replay it (on my phone, using my dirty fingers lol) and being forced to watch ads over and over!
I have a much deeper understanding of the entire adjustment process as well as the parts of the bike that are involved. I also got stuck on indexing my RD since I needed to turn the barrel adjuster clockwise, and it was already as far as it could go. Thankfully, I finally realized there was a second barrel adjuster near the handlebars 🤣🤣🤣 only took a minute to index after I adjusted that one 🤣
#27
Newbie
Thread Starter
Proper installation of the FD contributes to good performance.
1. Outside plate should be parallel to the large
2. 1mm clearance of the bottom edge of the cage plate from the teeth of the large ring
3. Limit screws should be adjusted for large ring/small sprocket and small ring/large sprocket
4 proper cable tension.
Large/large and small/small with rub is normal, as stated above. It can vary. I have more rub on older drive trains then newer ones. The Campy Record 10V on the De Rosa is nearly imperceptible but it has a plastic insert on the outside of the cage.
P1050183 on Flickr
The 2x7 Nuovo Record on the Colnago is very noisy in x-chain configuration.
Drivetrain on Flickr
Can't say for sure, but I think the flexibility of a narrow chain along with chain stay length are major contributors along with cage width..
Now when a triple is in consideration, the FD is often a different design. The Campy FD example in the following pic has a "step" on the inside plate near the bottom. Hard to see in the pic but it is there.
P1030407 , on Flickr
I know there isn't clearance for the ring in this picture. This condition is what alerted me to realize I had a triple FD instead of a double. It ended up on the Pinarello. Another way you can id the difference is to look at the "arm" with Record stenciled on it Note the location of the "D" relative to the limit screw.
1. Outside plate should be parallel to the large
2. 1mm clearance of the bottom edge of the cage plate from the teeth of the large ring
3. Limit screws should be adjusted for large ring/small sprocket and small ring/large sprocket
4 proper cable tension.
Large/large and small/small with rub is normal, as stated above. It can vary. I have more rub on older drive trains then newer ones. The Campy Record 10V on the De Rosa is nearly imperceptible but it has a plastic insert on the outside of the cage.

The 2x7 Nuovo Record on the Colnago is very noisy in x-chain configuration.

Can't say for sure, but I think the flexibility of a narrow chain along with chain stay length are major contributors along with cage width..
Now when a triple is in consideration, the FD is often a different design. The Campy FD example in the following pic has a "step" on the inside plate near the bottom. Hard to see in the pic but it is there.

I know there isn't clearance for the ring in this picture. This condition is what alerted me to realize I had a triple FD instead of a double. It ended up on the Pinarello. Another way you can id the difference is to look at the "arm" with Record stenciled on it Note the location of the "D" relative to the limit screw.
#28
Newbie
Thread Starter
Yes, I understand. I'm glad there are measures in place to limit spamming. The lol was just me feeling awkward since I'm new here 😅
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#29
Newbie
Thread Starter
First, when you said big and small, you are referring to physical size, rather than whether it is easier or harder to pedal, right? You did not specify how many speeds the RD and cassette are. For example, Shimano documentation indicates that the 3 or 4 physically smallest cog of an 11 speed cassette cannot be used with the small chain ring without rubbing.
It sounds like your FD is not properly adjusted. What is the specific model of your FD? In my case, Shimano FD-5800, I got better results from following the steps in the Shimano dealer manual rather than the Park Tool video.
The chain will always be noisier at an angle than when perfectly straight. If you mount the bike on a work stand and pedal and shift, do you see or hear any actual rubbing between the chain and the FD cage, or is it just noisy? Also, have you checked whether the chain is worn?
It sounds like your FD is not properly adjusted. What is the specific model of your FD? In my case, Shimano FD-5800, I got better results from following the steps in the Shimano dealer manual rather than the Park Tool video.
The chain will always be noisier at an angle than when perfectly straight. If you mount the bike on a work stand and pedal and shift, do you see or hear any actual rubbing between the chain and the FD cage, or is it just noisy? Also, have you checked whether the chain is worn?
1) while cross chaining which I know I should avoid
2) while on small chainring/three largest cogs, which I probably won't need to use anyway and
3) while on large chainring/smallest cog, but I believe the chain rub is very light (or disappears?) if I use trim.
I have the Shimano Claris R2000, 2x8 speed. I didn't know Shimano documentation specifies that the chain will rub with small chainring/smallest 3-4 cogs with the 11 speed cassette. Very interesting.
#30
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Here is the link to the Shimano dealer manual for FD-R2000: DM-RBFD001-01-ENG.pdf (shimano.com)
Review pages 20-21 on how to set (a) the FD in the Top Trim position via cable tension and (b) the FD position in the Top position via the top limit screw. You may have to go back and forth between these two settings to get them both satisfactory.
And here is the link to the Shimano dealer manual for RD-R2000: DM-RBRD001-00-ENG.pdf (shimano.com)
Page 5 says to expect chain rub with the small chain ring and the three smallest cogs.
Review pages 20-21 on how to set (a) the FD in the Top Trim position via cable tension and (b) the FD position in the Top position via the top limit screw. You may have to go back and forth between these two settings to get them both satisfactory.
And here is the link to the Shimano dealer manual for RD-R2000: DM-RBRD001-00-ENG.pdf (shimano.com)
Page 5 says to expect chain rub with the small chain ring and the three smallest cogs.
Last edited by SoSmellyAir; 03-26-23 at 10:41 PM.
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