Older Nishiki/wheel conversion
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Older Nishiki/wheel conversion
I just bought an older Nishiki mixte, model is "Custom 12". I want to do some customizing on this, including switching to 700c wheels. I assume this bike is a low/middle model. Chrome front fork tips, Diacompe center pull brakes, Althus components. I have a Trek bike that has 700 x 35 Bontrager wheels on it. I pulled the front wheel and put it on the Nishiki. It has plenty of clearance and the brake pads actually line up perfectly. I was going to try the rear wheel to see if the pads would align only to find out that the hub is much wider on the bike I was taking the 700 from. The spacing on the Nishiki measures 125mm.
What do I need to be looking for to get a 6 speed hub that would fit in this space with a 700 rim? The freewheel or freehub is also something I haven't run across. It is labeled Shimano but different from the freehubs I have been taking off recent cheap mountain bikes, and also different than the cassettes I have removed using the chain wrench and insert. Thanks in advance.
What do I need to be looking for to get a 6 speed hub that would fit in this space with a 700 rim? The freewheel or freehub is also something I haven't run across. It is labeled Shimano but different from the freehubs I have been taking off recent cheap mountain bikes, and also different than the cassettes I have removed using the chain wrench and insert. Thanks in advance.

#2
Really Old Senior Member
Look up Uniglide
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 5,187
Mentioned: 38 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3226 Post(s)
Liked 676 Times
in
449 Posts
That's the original Shimano cassette hub - instead of a lockring it uses a threaded outer cog. This is a little unusual in a bike of that type - usually it would just have a freewheel. 6 or 7 speed hubs with cassettes or freewheels are usually 126mm wide, like yours. Wider hubs (130mm) can accept 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10 speed freewheels or cassettes. For the 6 or 7 cassettes you add a spacer before adding the cogs. Using a wider hub won't hurt the Nishiki - you can just pull the dropouts apart to get the wheel in or permanently set (bend) the dropouts out to 130.
You need to ask yourself why you are putting a new 6 speed on the bike. If it has index shifting, then you would need to stick with 6 speed. But you may find it incredibly difficult to find true 6 speed spaced cassettes. Most 6 speed bikes used freewheels, and 6 speed index compatible freewheels are still produced. So if you need to stay with 6 speed, get some freewheel compatible wheels. They are not hard to find, new or used.
If you aren't trying to match a 6 speed index system, then consider upgrading to 7 or even 8 speed. 7 speed is also available in freewheel and cassette, and freewheel is likely to be the easier option.
You would need a 7/8 speed chain, if the bike doesn't have one already, but the crank and derailleurs will work just fine with narrower chains.
Given the kind of bike you have, I would find some decent freewheel compatible wheels and buy a Sunrace freewheel. It will not be a downgrade from what you have and will remain easy to get parts for.
Does that make sense?
You need to ask yourself why you are putting a new 6 speed on the bike. If it has index shifting, then you would need to stick with 6 speed. But you may find it incredibly difficult to find true 6 speed spaced cassettes. Most 6 speed bikes used freewheels, and 6 speed index compatible freewheels are still produced. So if you need to stay with 6 speed, get some freewheel compatible wheels. They are not hard to find, new or used.
If you aren't trying to match a 6 speed index system, then consider upgrading to 7 or even 8 speed. 7 speed is also available in freewheel and cassette, and freewheel is likely to be the easier option.
You would need a 7/8 speed chain, if the bike doesn't have one already, but the crank and derailleurs will work just fine with narrower chains.
Given the kind of bike you have, I would find some decent freewheel compatible wheels and buy a Sunrace freewheel. It will not be a downgrade from what you have and will remain easy to get parts for.
Does that make sense?
#4
SE Wis
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 9,851
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2455 Post(s)
Liked 2,834 Times
in
1,732 Posts
Probably a 1050 hub. Tells you it was at least above a base model or the wheel was replaced.
https://manualzz.com/doc/53869670/sh...-exploded-view
Options are a 6 speed 700 freewheel wheel or lace a 700 rim on the existing hub.
https://velomine.com/products/sun-m1...63b15e51&_ss=r
Those uniglide hubs can be "upgraded" to hyperglide.
https://manualzz.com/doc/53869670/sh...-exploded-view
Options are a 6 speed 700 freewheel wheel or lace a 700 rim on the existing hub.
https://velomine.com/products/sun-m1...63b15e51&_ss=r
Those uniglide hubs can be "upgraded" to hyperglide.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: NW Oregon
Posts: 2,112
Bikes: !982 Trek 930R Custom, Diamondback ascent with SERIOUS updates, Fuji Team Pro CF and a '09 Comencal Meta 5.5
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 913 Post(s)
Liked 289 Times
in
221 Posts
the Nisiki frame should actually measure 126mm.. and it can be reset/"COLDSET" to 130mm without much trouble.. a shop with frame gauges can do that for not too much cash.
restting the frame to 135mm will be tougher and require more effort....the dropouts get wider at the rear and they also need alignment..
restting the frame to 135mm will be tougher and require more effort....the dropouts get wider at the rear and they also need alignment..
Last edited by maddog34; 03-25-23 at 04:54 PM.
#6
señor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 7,388
Bikes: Old school lightweights
Mentioned: 84 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3180 Post(s)
Liked 4,760 Times
in
2,477 Posts
The freewheel or freehub is also something I haven't run across.
[edit: yours isn't that.]
Last edited by SurferRosa; 03-26-23 at 07:07 AM.
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
An inexpensive and quick solution for a tandem that you want to keep at 126mm, would be a threaded hub for freewheel with a solid axle for strength.
That pic reminds me of the Shimano thread-on freewheel I had with the hub bearings outboard of the freewheel. It worked, but the hub was near impossible to easily adjust and maintain. It would be nice to see how yours attaches to the hub.
That pic reminds me of the Shimano thread-on freewheel I had with the hub bearings outboard of the freewheel. It worked, but the hub was near impossible to easily adjust and maintain. It would be nice to see how yours attaches to the hub.
I'd be glad to take some more pics.

Last edited by louky; 03-26-23 at 06:17 AM. Reason: add pic
Likes For louky:
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
My goal on this bike is to get the handlebars up so my creaky 73yo body can comfortably ride on streets and bike paths (mostly paved, some hard pack gravel). I wanted to replace the current steel wheels due to weight and the fact that they have some rust, the finish on the rest of the bike is in excellent shape. Based on the condition of the bike I am thinking it was a garage queen. Looks like original gumwall tires, with almost no wear on the tread but gumwalls rotting. Little wear on brake pads, and you can see the condition of the rear gears.
I have found some alloy wheels online with the proper axle width that takes the thread on cassette in 27 x 1 1/4, which would be one solution as I have a set of new gumwalls that will fit them.
I could get 700c wheels that would take a standard shimano cassette in 126mm width in alloy? I know my front brakes would line up, and assume the back will not be a stopper. This might give me a much wider choice of tires and possible let me have more than 6 cogs on the rear?
There is a chance I can find this set of wheels at the co-op, but I would think the chance of finding the 27 x 1 1/4 in alloy there is much less.
BTW, is there a good way to measure the axle width on these wheels without a special tool while I am at the co-op?
Also, should I be calling this particular one a freehub or a freewheel?
Thanks!
I have found some alloy wheels online with the proper axle width that takes the thread on cassette in 27 x 1 1/4, which would be one solution as I have a set of new gumwalls that will fit them.
I could get 700c wheels that would take a standard shimano cassette in 126mm width in alloy? I know my front brakes would line up, and assume the back will not be a stopper. This might give me a much wider choice of tires and possible let me have more than 6 cogs on the rear?
There is a chance I can find this set of wheels at the co-op, but I would think the chance of finding the 27 x 1 1/4 in alloy there is much less.
BTW, is there a good way to measure the axle width on these wheels without a special tool while I am at the co-op?
Also, should I be calling this particular one a freehub or a freewheel?
Thanks!
#9
SE Wis
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 9,851
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2455 Post(s)
Liked 2,834 Times
in
1,732 Posts
Measuring the OLD on a built wheel can be done with a decent ruler and a good eye. The standard dimensions are 120mm, 126, 130, 135 and some longer others for more modern and tandem frames. Eyeballing with a ruler is usually good enough to determine which it is.

#10
señor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 7,388
Bikes: Old school lightweights
Mentioned: 84 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3180 Post(s)
Liked 4,760 Times
in
2,477 Posts
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 5,187
Mentioned: 38 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3226 Post(s)
Liked 676 Times
in
449 Posts
My goal on this bike is to get the handlebars up so my creaky 73yo body can comfortably ride on streets and bike paths (mostly paved, some hard pack gravel). I wanted to replace the current steel wheels due to weight and the fact that they have some rust, the finish on the rest of the bike is in excellent shape. Based on the condition of the bike I am thinking it was a garage queen. Looks like original gumwall tires, with almost no wear on the tread but gumwalls rotting. Little wear on brake pads, and you can see the condition of the rear gears.
I have found some alloy wheels online with the proper axle width that takes the thread on cassette in 27 x 1 1/4, which would be one solution as I have a set of new gumwalls that will fit them.
I could get 700c wheels that would take a standard shimano cassette in 126mm width in alloy? I know my front brakes would line up, and assume the back will not be a stopper. This might give me a much wider choice of tires and possible let me have more than 6 cogs on the rear?
There is a chance I can find this set of wheels at the co-op, but I would think the chance of finding the 27 x 1 1/4 in alloy there is much less.
BTW, is there a good way to measure the axle width on these wheels without a special tool while I am at the co-op?
Also, should I be calling this particular one a freehub or a freewheel?
Thanks!
I have found some alloy wheels online with the proper axle width that takes the thread on cassette in 27 x 1 1/4, which would be one solution as I have a set of new gumwalls that will fit them.
I could get 700c wheels that would take a standard shimano cassette in 126mm width in alloy? I know my front brakes would line up, and assume the back will not be a stopper. This might give me a much wider choice of tires and possible let me have more than 6 cogs on the rear?
There is a chance I can find this set of wheels at the co-op, but I would think the chance of finding the 27 x 1 1/4 in alloy there is much less.
BTW, is there a good way to measure the axle width on these wheels without a special tool while I am at the co-op?
Also, should I be calling this particular one a freehub or a freewheel?
Thanks!
It will also be easier to turn a 130 freewheel hub into a 126 than it would be to do the same with a freehub/cassette wheel.
The used wheel market may have quite a lot of selection of 700c freewheel AND cassette wheelsets in 126/7 speed left over from the '90s. If you buy a cassette model, get one that takes a lockring (HG). Some will take both kinds of cassettes (UG and HG), and are threaded on the outside and inside. HG are the ones where one spline is wider than the rest.
You can still buy replacement 27" wheels and tires for all those touring/sport touring bikes of the '80s bike boom. But your selection of tires will be much poorer. Might as well go 700c.
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,124
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 818 Post(s)
Liked 438 Times
in
290 Posts
No problem. I think you said you already found a 700C wheelset that is 126mm and that accepts a 6-speed freewheel. I just bought one of those myself for an old Fuji, from Velomine. They are very nice wheels and hubs. And there are still Shimano 6-speed freewheels available too, and Sunrace sells them also.
This is what I bought and I'd buy these again in a heartbeat. There are different rims available depending on what tires you're planning to use. These have Sun CR18 which I have on several other bikes.
Sun CR18 27" 5,6,7 Speed Freewheel hubs Road Bike Wheelset
Selection of screw-on freewheels is limited but this is what I used.
Shimano Tourney/TY MF-TZ500 6-Speed Multiple Freewheel, 14-28 Tooth
This is also available.
SHIMANO MF-TZ20 14-28 Teeth 6 Speed Freewheel
This is what I bought and I'd buy these again in a heartbeat. There are different rims available depending on what tires you're planning to use. These have Sun CR18 which I have on several other bikes.
Sun CR18 27" 5,6,7 Speed Freewheel hubs Road Bike Wheelset
Selection of screw-on freewheels is limited but this is what I used.
Shimano Tourney/TY MF-TZ500 6-Speed Multiple Freewheel, 14-28 Tooth
This is also available.
SHIMANO MF-TZ20 14-28 Teeth 6 Speed Freewheel
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Chicago area
Posts: 2,354
Bikes: Airborne "Carpe Diem", Motobecane "Mirage", Trek 6000, Strida 2, Dahon "Helios XL", Dahon "Mu XL", Tern "Verge S11i"
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 912 Post(s)
Liked 437 Times
in
319 Posts
Just a thought... I don't see why you couldn't keep the original hub, gears and derailleur and have the wheel re-built with a 700c rim.
