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Need help installing a crankset

Old 03-26-23, 08:56 AM
  #1  
Saddle Tripper 
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Need help installing a crankset

I have a vintage 2000 Specialized RockHoper frame that I am building up for my son.

I have a sealed bearing crankset in my parts bin I want to install (see pictures) that I purchased a few years ago but never used.

1. I知 not familiar with Specialized threading. However this crank BB has BSA threads. Before I install can someone tell me if Specialized used British Standard threads?

2. I知 assuming I need a compatible or proprietary? bottom bracket wrench for this crank. ??

3. Is this a standard BB wrench that I can purchase online?

4. Do I need to pull the drive crank arm/spider to torque the BB down or, can I just remove the chainrings to tighten?

your help is greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance. -tom





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Old 03-26-23, 09:21 AM
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1. Specialized of that era is going to be BSA, but probably the MTB 73mm wide BB shell rather than the old standard/road 68mm BB shell. This BB should be for a 73, but you might want to slip it together and measure - then consult the manufacturer's installation manual online.

2. You probably need the original Shimano external cup wrench. like the Park BBT-19. But count the notches and measure before you buy. Or go into a bike shop that stocks them with one of your cups to try them out. https://www.parktool.com/en-us/categ...bottom-bracket

3. Yup.

4. You don't remove anything on the drive side. The spindle is a permanent part of the DS arm. You slide the BB body off the spindle, install to proper torque, then install the NDS cup. Lube the spindle and slide it through, then follow the installation instructions to mount the NDS arm, adjust the bearing preload and tighten.

You have done an excellent job of keep it secret what kind of crank you have, so you'll need to look up the specifics as we cannot guess. But this crank appears to install much like many Shimano Hollowgram cranks and BBs.
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Old 03-26-23, 10:26 AM
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Thanks. I appreciate it. My memory is g
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Old 03-26-23, 10:27 AM
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Thanks. I appreciate it. My memory is good, but often very short . I could not remember the brand name of the Crank when I wrote the note. The brand is Swordfish. I don稚 know if they are still around or were quietly bought out. 73mm.

looks like 16 splines or notches. I値l look into the Park tool. Appreciate your experience.
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Old 03-26-23, 10:31 AM
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I don't see any information under that name. Post some pictures of the NDS arm and end cap if you want help figuring out installation.
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Old 03-26-23, 10:57 AM
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Human memory is not needed for anything, just memory on a camera or a phone. Pictures are worth a thousand words.

In terms of the frame more than likely BSA threaded so shouldn't have issues with the correct tool installing the correct bottom bracket for that crank. You shouldn't need to remove any chainrings or anything like that but follow the instructions with the crankset if it is not a HollowTech II style crank and if it is (which from what we have it looks like one) just install like a normal HTII style crank.
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Old 03-26-23, 11:33 AM
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Here are some pictures. I ordered a 16 notch 44mm OD wrench. I like my digital calipers! The instruction sheet? Probably where I set them 9 years ago.





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Old 03-26-23, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Saddle Tripper View Post
Here are some pictures. I ordered a 16 notch 44mm OD wrench. I like my digital calipers! The instruction sheet? Probably where I set them 9 years ago.
Need pictures of non drive side crank arm and end cap.
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Old 03-26-23, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Kontact View Post
Need pictures of non drive side crank arm and end cap.
uggh - be right back (so, that痴 what NDS is)



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Old 03-26-23, 01:38 PM
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Hellen Keller shouldn't paint bikes...
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Old 03-26-23, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Saddle Tripper View Post
uggh - be right back (so, that痴 what NDS is)


Okay, there are two allen bolts nested in the end. You will install and remove the crank arm with the inner one. The outer is for removing the extractor. You assemble the crank in the BB, mount this arm and tighten it down until you hit probably 40nM.

This system does not set preload or spacing for the bearings. You accomplish that with spacers and a single wave washer on the left side. So either you have the spacers or you'll need to go and get them. Assembling without spacers will allow you to estimate what you'll need. Put a roughly equal thickness on both sides.
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Old 03-26-23, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by wheelreason View Post
Hellen Keller shouldn't paint bikes...

?
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Old 03-26-23, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Kontact View Post
Okay, there are two allen bolts nested in the end. You will install and remove the crank arm with the inner one. The outer is for removing the extractor. You assemble the crank in the BB, mount this arm and tighten it down until you hit probably 40nM.

This system does not set preload or spacing for the bearings. You accomplish that with spacers and a single wave washer on the left side. So either you have the spacers or you'll need to go and get them. Assembling without spacers will allow you to estimate what you'll need. Put a roughly equal thickness on both sides.
this crank came with two spacers. I assumed it was a washer for each side. But perhaps not.

got it. I値l preassemble and determine if the spacers are for each side - or one side and two spacers. Will be a few days til I get to it.

looks like I need a small torque wrench.

thank you!
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Old 03-26-23, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Saddle Tripper View Post
this crank came with two spacers. I assumed it was a washer for each side…. But perhaps not.

got it. I’ll preassemble and determine if the spacers are for each side - or one side and two spacers. Will be a few days til I get to it.

looks like I need a small torque wrench.

thank you!
It should be 1 spacer per side. But many cranks come with 2.5mm spacers that are there to adapt the crank to a 68mm BB shell. You don't use them with a 73mm BB shell. But usually you also need at least a wave washer to take up the slack between not tight and too tight against the bearings.

You don't have to use a torque wrench. 40nM is pretty darn firm - like the torque you'd put on a square taper crank bolt. You would have a hard time going way too height.
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Old 03-26-23, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by veganbikes View Post
Human memory is not needed for anything, just memory on a camera or a phone. Pictures are worth a thousand words.

In terms of the frame more than likely BSA threaded so shouldn't have issues with the correct tool installing the correct bottom bracket for that crank. You shouldn't need to remove any chainrings or anything like that but follow the instructions with the crankset if it is not a HollowTech II style crank and if it is (which from what we have it looks like one) just install like a normal HTII style crank.
except one must remember how to operate their new cell phone.
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Old 03-26-23, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Saddle Tripper View Post
this crank came with two spacers. I assumed it was a washer for each side. But perhaps not.

got it. I値l preassemble and determine if the spacers are for each side - or one side and two spacers. Will be a few days til I get to it.

looks like I need a small torque wrench.

thank you!
The spacers might be for a 68mm BB shell, and I'm assuming this bike has a 73mm shell, so you might not need any spacers.
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Old 03-26-23, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by tyrion View Post
The spacers might be for a 68mm BB shell, and I'm assuming this bike has a 73mm shell, so you might not need any spacers.
Or they could be for a 68mm shell.
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Old 03-26-23, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Kontact View Post
Or they could be for a 68mm shell.
understood.

here are a couple pictures of my project. My son痴 name is Hunter. It will be his bike. Didn稚 have one that he could call his own growing up. Got the hand-me-down bicycle. So, I am making one for him with his name on it. It痴 not new off the floor, but his Dad is building it for him.



2000 RickHopper A1 Pro. 23

Plastic Saran Wrap helps keep the vapors in place and wet. Off the shelf strippers are not as strong as they were.

Cleaned with lacquer thinner to remove the stripper wax. Wiped with Eastwood Pre- prep before priming.

Epoxy primed



Base coat

Clear coated

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