Wheel building
#1
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Bikes: A lot: Raliegh road bike, 3 fixed gears, 2 single speeds, 3 Cannondales, a couple of Schwinns
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Wheel building
Have a couple wheel projects in the works. Winter is on its way, and I am anxious to develop a set of wheels that will survive a MN winter. I have built a couple to date, but not seasonal specific.
I have to find a couple bomb proof rims, and hubs, although I am considering a Surly 1x1 flip flop track hub and try rding fixed for the winter, with studs.
Any suggestions?
I have to find a couple bomb proof rims, and hubs, although I am considering a Surly 1x1 flip flop track hub and try rding fixed for the winter, with studs.
Any suggestions?
#2
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My nomination is:
It just occurred to me that the 135mm spacing of the LX hub could be an obstacle, depending on the age and type of bike. What would you be using these wheels on, or have you decided?
- DeoreLX hubs. They are pretty cheap, and have triple seals (rubber overseal, metal labyrinth shield, and rubber lip seal) except for the driveside rear, which has no rubber overseal. Fill these up with Sta-Lube Boat Trailer Wheel Bearing Grease if you want extra water resistance.
- DT or Wheelsmith 14ga. spokes with brass nipples and Wheelsmith SpokePrep or linseed oil
- Sun RhynoLite rims (available in 700C as well as 26", last I knew)
It just occurred to me that the 135mm spacing of the LX hub could be an obstacle, depending on the age and type of bike. What would you be using these wheels on, or have you decided?
Last edited by mechBgon; 08-03-02 at 02:00 PM.
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How does a grease injection system sound. Instead of stripping the hub down to clean, you just squirt-squirt and all the crud comes out.
Shimano road hubs make good conversions to injection, the MTB hubs have too much space between shell and axle.
American Classic hubs come with injection system.
Shimano road hubs make good conversions to injection, the MTB hubs have too much space between shell and axle.
American Classic hubs come with injection system.
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I rode all winter in NoDak for years on a mountain bike, 8 miles/day commuting. The best setup was a wide tire with a relatively high number of knobs of equal sizes inflated to a lower pressure. I can't remember the exact tire but it was made by Specialized and had a very rounded cross section. This worked better than the studded tires I tried.
The freehub would freeze up on really cold mornings (-40f) and the pawls wouldn't engage, so you could pedal but the bike wouldn't move. Fill the freehub with synthetic gear oil and let it drain, then it worked fine.
The freehub would freeze up on really cold mornings (-40f) and the pawls wouldn't engage, so you could pedal but the bike wouldn't move. Fill the freehub with synthetic gear oil and let it drain, then it worked fine.
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Oh yea, I forgot ... don't use a front brake if it's slick, and learn to maneuver with little or no body lean, weight straight down between the wheels. You can practice at the parkboard outdoor hockey rink after the termites are done.
Application of the front brake at high speeds on packed snow/ice is just way too exciting.
Application of the front brake at high speeds on packed snow/ice is just way too exciting.
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Oh yea, I forgot ... don't use a front brake if it's slick, and learn to maneuver with little or no body lean, weight straight down between the wheels. You can practice at the parkboard outdoor hockey rink after the termites are done.
Application of the front brake at high speeds on packed snow/ice is just way too exciting.
Application of the front brake at high speeds on packed snow/ice is just way too exciting.