Will aluminum skewers corrode a steel bike?
#26
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Sheldon is correct about the axle compressing slightly; Park is incorrect about the axle flexing, but both are correct that bearings of hubs with Quick-Release axles must be left slightly loose when the wheel is off the bike. An easy way to adjust the bearings correctly, with the axle under compression, is to use an axle vise like THIS ONE.
#27
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Not sold on it, a lifetime of ruining perfectly good parts by over torquing says the small diameter threads on the skewer will fail before compressing the the axle . Perhaps possible with the best quality skewer and the worst axle.
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Gladly.. Steel is Compressible... especially a hollow tube of steel. If you can't imagine this then test it for yourself.. take a bare QR hub, set the bearings to "no slop but spins free".. then mount it in a frame or fork..now feel the roughness when you rotate the previously smooth turning hub. the Hollow Axle has COMPRESSED slightly. a tiny bit of shifting of the cones/nuts on the threads may also occur.. This effect has been discussed and agreed to many times on these forums.
Last edited by maddog34; 04-02-23 at 12:11 PM.
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#29
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Gladly.. Steel is Compressible... especially a hollow tube of steel. If you can't imagine this then test it for yourself.. take a bare QR hub, set the bearings to "no slop but spins free".. then mount it in a frame or fork..now feel the roughness when you rotate the previously smooth turning hub. the Hollow Axle has COMPRESSED slightly. a tiny bit of shifting of the cones/nuts on the threads may also occur.. This effect has been discussed and agreed to many times on these forums.
Steel is also elastic, the skewer will stretch or the small diameter threads will fail before the greater mass of the axle compresses.
My set up has a Allen head on the skewer instead of a cam, I am unable to produce bearing drag.

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Your axle-fixing hardware apparently doesn't put enough compressive load on the axle to change the bearing adjustment, but it's easy to demonstrate on a standard QR axle.
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#31
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Again, I can't believe that a 5mm Allen bit on a 3/8 ratchet provides less torque and clamping force than a cam. I also maintain my sons bike, standard QR on both front and rear, just haven't run across the this before, learn something new every day.
Been working on my front disc brake, Shimano hydraulic, 500 series, new lever, new caliper, new hose, freshly bled. Can you tell me how to keep clearance pad to rotor, I can't seem to stop pads from contacting rotor. The old SRAM assembly never had clearance either unless I removed some material from the pad.
Been working on my front disc brake, Shimano hydraulic, 500 series, new lever, new caliper, new hose, freshly bled. Can you tell me how to keep clearance pad to rotor, I can't seem to stop pads from contacting rotor. The old SRAM assembly never had clearance either unless I removed some material from the pad.
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Again, I can't believe that a 5mm Allen bit on a 3/8 ratchet provides less torque and clamping force than a cam. I also maintain my sons bike, standard QR on both front and rear, just haven't run across the this before, learn something new every day.
Been working on my front disc brake, Shimano hydraulic, 500 series, new lever, new caliper, new hose, freshly bled. Can you tell me how to keep clearance pad to rotor, I can't seem to stop pads from contacting rotor. The old SRAM assembly never had clearance either unless I removed some material from the pad.
Been working on my front disc brake, Shimano hydraulic, 500 series, new lever, new caliper, new hose, freshly bled. Can you tell me how to keep clearance pad to rotor, I can't seem to stop pads from contacting rotor. The old SRAM assembly never had clearance either unless I removed some material from the pad.
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Hubs and BBs generally grab cartridge bearings by the inner race, so no amount of compression is going to affect the relationship of the inner and outer race. That's why you won't see it with your QR. In the same way, you can't adjust play out of such a hub bearing.
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#35
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[QUOTE=Kontact;22848174]Hubs and BBs generally grab cartridge bearings by the inner race, so no amount of compression is going to affect the relationship of the inner and outer race. That's why you won't see it with your QR. In the same way, you can't adjust play out of such a hub bearing.[/QUOTE
Outer race is captured by the hub, compress the shaft the inners move loser together while the outers remain stationary and they will no longer be aligned. They will bind.
You're right in saying that skewers are no where near strong enough to compress the axle.
Outer race is captured by the hub, compress the shaft the inners move loser together while the outers remain stationary and they will no longer be aligned. They will bind.
You're right in saying that skewers are no where near strong enough to compress the axle.
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Anyone with a loose ball hub can demonstrate this principle in 2 minutes, so please stop telling people you know different.
Last edited by Kontact; 04-02-23 at 04:41 PM.
#37
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I don't have a loose axle at the moment, if you do, could you take a photo showing the amount of compression measured with a caliper?
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I doubt my .001" measuring calipers would show it linearly. Since the bearing is angular, you can feel it more rocking the axle back and forth. There is only a tiny distance between just right and being able to feel play.
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#42
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A couple years ago, I put a hollow axle in my bench vise and jury-rigged a dial indicator, set to "0" with the axle just barely held in the vise. When I tightened the vise, the dial indicator moved a couple hundredths of a millimeter. I had no good way to compare this to a quick-release, but it *did* confirm that the axle got compressed a bit.
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The fact that QR axles compress is pretty common knowledge. Why is it so difficult for you to believe it?