Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Clicking when pedaling

Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Clicking when pedaling

Old 05-26-23, 03:27 PM
  #1  
tornado60
Full Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 278
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 37 Post(s)
Liked 19 Times in 13 Posts
Clicking when pedaling

I got a clicking when pedaling that I can not diagnose. Seems to do it only when pedaling. Not in my two largest gears in the back. Also is not very noticeable if at all when pedaling the bike in the work stand. Only when riding. I have looked over the frame and seems solid. I have also swapped the seat and post with one from another bike. Because I wanted that seat and the post just happened to fit. Sound happened prior to that and after. Pedals feel smooth when turning. Derailleur alignment seems good. So I'm kind of stumped. I'd think bottom bracket but I would think I'd hear that in the work stand too.


Here is a link to a video where I tried to catch the sound.

https://flic.kr/p/2oD79TN

Last edited by tornado60; 05-26-23 at 03:32 PM.
tornado60 is offline  
Old 05-26-23, 03:30 PM
  #2  
mpetry912 
aged to perfection
 
mpetry912's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: PacNW
Posts: 1,393

Bikes: Dinucci Allez 2.0, Richard Sachs, Alex Singer, Serotta, Masi GC, Raleigh Pro Mk.1, Hetchins, etc

Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 634 Post(s)
Liked 843 Times in 461 Posts
that sounds more like clunking. is there a chainring bolt that has backed out and hitting the chainstay ?

first place I'd look

/markp
mpetry912 is offline  
Likes For mpetry912:
Old 05-26-23, 03:52 PM
  #3  
tornado60
Full Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 278
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 37 Post(s)
Liked 19 Times in 13 Posts
Originally Posted by mpetry912
that sounds more like clunking. is there a chainring bolt that has backed out and hitting the chainstay ?

first place I'd look

/markp
I will check for that. It is a bit of a clunk. Started as more of a click but is a bit louder now.
tornado60 is offline  
Old 05-26-23, 03:58 PM
  #4  
mpetry912 
aged to perfection
 
mpetry912's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: PacNW
Posts: 1,393

Bikes: Dinucci Allez 2.0, Richard Sachs, Alex Singer, Serotta, Masi GC, Raleigh Pro Mk.1, Hetchins, etc

Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 634 Post(s)
Liked 843 Times in 461 Posts
if you don't find anything, the next thing to check is the bottom bracket bearings.

/markp
mpetry912 is offline  
Old 05-26-23, 07:53 PM
  #5  
maddog34
Senior Member
 
maddog34's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: NW Oregon
Posts: 2,752

Bikes: !982 Trek 930R Custom, Diamondback ascent with SERIOUS updates, Fuji Team Pro CF and a '09 Comencal Meta 5.5

Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1201 Post(s)
Liked 609 Times in 443 Posts
Hard to tell from the short vid, but it looks like it is NOT crank-related at all... the rhythm is definitely Not in time with your pedal strokes in the vid.

Do you have a Plastic Spoke Guard, AKA: Dork Disc, on the rear wheel, by chance? they sound EXACTLY like that as they begin to come loose and move around with Every wheel rotation.... the speed of the clunk will increase/decrease with the bike's rolling speed, and may cease when you don't pedal or haul azz............shouk/chunk. shouk/chunk.. Shouk/Chunk take a look, grab it and see if it moves.....they sometimes find a happy place and quit making noise for a while.... wrapping a willow twig between the big sprocket and the Dork disc can also silence them temporarily....i've seen tape and wire used too.... the idea is to keep it from sliding around, and force it LIGHTLY against the SPOKES.

if it's brittle enough(they turn yellow-ish). you can break it out... if not, you will need to go by a bike Co-op shop and sweet talk the mechanic into getting it off the bike for you....cash or food is always welcome... some also accept beers.

Last edited by maddog34; 05-26-23 at 08:17 PM.
maddog34 is online now  
Old 05-26-23, 08:23 PM
  #6  
soyabean
Senior Member
 
soyabean's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2022
Posts: 659
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 374 Post(s)
Liked 296 Times in 197 Posts
Loose spokes will do exactly this.

You're hearing the spokes smack each other where they intersect.

Re-tensioning spokes means re-truing a wheel.
soyabean is offline  
Likes For soyabean:
Old 05-27-23, 12:22 AM
  #7  
plumberroy
Senior Member
 
plumberroy's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: ohio
Posts: 1,011

Bikes: Surly long haul trucker, Surly steamroller,Huffy Catalina, Univega Alpina 501. Gravity deadeye monster, Raliegh sport , Electra loft 1

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 428 Post(s)
Liked 188 Times in 114 Posts
Crank arm to bottom bracket needs tightened. I had it happen on a Bikesdirect single speed fat bike and an electra loft. The fat bike I had to wrap the square connection with Teflon tape
plumberroy is offline  
Old 05-27-23, 02:43 PM
  #8  
KerryIrons
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 834
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 433 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 542 Times in 297 Posts
Originally Posted by tornado60
I got a clicking when pedaling that I can not diagnose. Seems to do it only when pedaling. Not in my two largest gears in the back. Also is not very noticeable if at all when pedaling the bike in the work stand. Only when riding. I have looked over the frame and seems solid. I have also swapped the seat and post with one from another bike. Because I wanted that seat and the post just happened to fit. Sound happened prior to that and after. Pedals feel smooth when turning. Derailleur alignment seems good. So I'm kind of stumped. I'd think bottom bracket but I would think I'd hear that in the work stand too.


Here is a link to a video where I tried to catch the sound.

https://flic.kr/p/2oD79TN
Clicks tied to your pedaling can come from

- BB (grease all threads in contact with the frame and BB, all metal to metal contact surfaces, and torque to the recommended settings, which can be quite high), the faces of tapered BB axles if they have a little corrosion

- bolt holding the BB cable guide onto the frame (grease threads and make sure the bolt is not touching the BB shell inside the frame)

- BB cable guide (grease threads and tighten)

- crank bolts (grease threads and washers)

- chain ring bolts (take them all out and grease the threads, the faces where they contact the CRs, and the CRs where they contact the crank spider arms)

- a dirty chain, inadequately lubed chain, stiff link in a chain or a burr on one of the "break off" special links used to assemble the chain

- front derailleur clamp (clean and put a light film of grease on the inside of the clamp where it touches the seat tube)

- front derailleur cage hitting crank arm

- the pedals (grease the threads and the shoulders of the axle where it butts against the crank arm, get some wax, silicone etc. on the cleats, check for play in the bearings, squirt some lube into the guts of the pedal machinery if possible)

- shoes/cleats - loose cleat nut rattling around in the shoe sole, shoe/cleat interface, cleat bolts, cleats touching pedals (wax lube, silicone, or furniture polish)

- seat post and saddle (grease the post, seat post clamp, seat post bolts, saddle rails, and add some oil to where the rails go into the saddle body)

- bars and stem (grease the stem where it clamps to steerer or goes into the steerer if quill type, top cap, stem bolts at both ends, h'bar bolt if quill stem, and h'bar where it goes through the stem)

- grease/tighten QRs and where the hub axle contacts the frame

- tighten cassette lock ring, grease cassette hub body and cassette spacers

- grease steerer tube spacers (if threadless)

- replaceable derailleur hangers (remove, clean, grease all parts and threads, reassemble)

- any other bolt (bottle cages, derailleur clamps, derailleur bolts, shift cable casing stops, etc.)

- cables hitting the frame (cable donuts), or shifting in their end ferrules (lube contact points).

Wheels can make noises when pedaling or coasting (check for spoke tension, particularly on the rear non drive side, put a drop of lube where each pair of spokes cross and where each spoke enters the rim and the hub flange, check for loose metal bits or spoke nipples in the body of the rim and cracks in the rim at spoke holes.).
KerryIrons is offline  
Likes For KerryIrons:
Old 05-29-23, 06:52 AM
  #9  
sweeks
Senior Member
 
sweeks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Chicago area
Posts: 2,440

Bikes: Airborne "Carpe Diem", Motobecane "Mirage", Trek 6000, Strida 2, Dahon "Helios XL", Dahon "Mu XL", Tern "Verge S11i"

Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 942 Post(s)
Liked 510 Times in 355 Posts
Now that's the most exhaustive list I've seen!
sweeks is offline  
Old 05-29-23, 01:53 PM
  #10  
rc5781
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 162
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 135 Post(s)
Liked 18 Times in 12 Posts
Originally Posted by plumberroy
Crank arm to bottom bracket needs tightened. I had it happen on a Bikesdirect single speed fat bike and an electra loft. The fat bike I had to wrap the square connection with Teflon tape
This is exactly what happened to me. The last mountain bike I bought from Bikesdirect started clicking. I noticed that if I grabbed both pedals and moved them side to side there was movement. This is when I realized the bottom bracket wasn't on tight enough. Didn't have the right tools so had to take it to the shop. Bikedirect is my current go to for buying bike, but you do have to check their installation.
rc5781 is offline  
Old 05-30-23, 06:38 PM
  #11  
tFUnK
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 3,551

Bikes: Too many bikes, too little time to ride

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 389 Post(s)
Liked 382 Times in 269 Posts
One guess for pedals. Switch out the pedals and see if the noise persists.
tFUnK is offline  
Old 06-02-23, 01:32 PM
  #12  
tornado60
Full Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 278
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 37 Post(s)
Liked 19 Times in 13 Posts
Sorry I haven't replied. I didn't get to work on the bike before I had out of state family visit like I wanted. Hopefully I can check all your wonderful suggestions this weekend and report back.
tornado60 is offline  
Old 06-02-23, 02:13 PM
  #13  
Iride01 
I'm good to go!
 
Iride01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 13,834

Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020

Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5648 Post(s)
Liked 4,322 Times in 2,973 Posts
Might be the front dr slightly out of adjustment and the chain grabbing briefly on the pin to help it shift to the larger cog. If that crankset doesn't have a pin then maybe just grabbing a tooth of the big ring.

If that's a bike you bought from a LBS, did you take it back to them as they may have suggested when you went out the door with the bike? Usually new bikes need some attention 100 to 300 miles after purchase. Even if it's been a year I'd still go back and see if that free offer to look at everything and adjust still stands.
Iride01 is offline  
Old 06-02-23, 10:52 PM
  #14  
CrimsonEclipse
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 748
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 238 Post(s)
Liked 325 Times in 179 Posts
Pedals (may need replacing)
Bottom bracket (may need replacing)
Chainring to crank arm (tighten, make sure the bolts are the correct length)
CrimsonEclipse is offline  
Old 06-03-23, 05:37 AM
  #15  
cny-bikeman
Mechanic/Tourist
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Syracuse, NY
Posts: 7,522

Bikes: 2008 Novara Randonee - love it. Previous bikes:Motobecane Mirage, 1972 Moto Grand Jubilee (my fave), Jackson Rake 16, 1983 C'dale ST500.

Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 486 Post(s)
Liked 11 Times in 11 Posts
A better video could possibly help - perhaps have someone trot alongside you or pan as you ride slowly by. That would help clearly see the relationship between the noise and crank or wheel rotation.
The other thing here is that we need more info, so that people are not reduced to mostly guessing. Below are some questions that should help in narrowing down possible causes and areas to focus on - they are helpful in many clicking situations:
1. Do you know if it occurs in time with pedal or wheel rotation, or neither?
2. Does the timing change at all in different gears?
3. Does it require higher pedal pressure to create it?
4. Does it change if you change position to put more pressure on front vs. rear wheels, or if you pedal out of the saddle?
5. Did it occur after any change in equipment, maintenance procedure, an accident, or extreme weather?

It's very difficult to tell, but after multiple views of the 2nd video, it appears to me that the noise occurs twice with each rotation of the front wheel (I believe I could make out the label coming around). IF that is true, then we can eliminate everything but the wheels, and spokes are then a strong possibility. Although that would normally happen in every gear, and whether pedaling or not. there may be something out of the usual going on in this case. The higher gears usually mean more pressure on the rear cogs, which is transferred to the spokes. That might stress them enough to keep them from rubbing against each other the same way in the higher gears. That's admittedly a lot of guessing as well, but that's all I can come up with. To check spokes for a clicking problem, go to each X where they cross and press the pair toward each other by grabbing them toward the rim and squeezing. If there's a problem you will feel a click as they flex, which is from a groove or being worn from them flexing against each other (due to low spoke tension).

I'm very doubtful about the spoke issue, so please get back to us with the answers to the diagnostic questions above. Thank you.

Last edited by cny-bikeman; 06-03-23 at 05:59 AM.
cny-bikeman is offline  
Old 06-03-23, 06:25 AM
  #16  
cny-bikeman
Mechanic/Tourist
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Syracuse, NY
Posts: 7,522

Bikes: 2008 Novara Randonee - love it. Previous bikes:Motobecane Mirage, 1972 Moto Grand Jubilee (my fave), Jackson Rake 16, 1983 C'dale ST500.

Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 486 Post(s)
Liked 11 Times in 11 Posts
It would be a lot of unnecessary work to check every suggestion made above, and may complicate things further. If you answer the questions I posted and perhaps upload a better video it would make the task much easier.

Last edited by cny-bikeman; 06-05-23 at 07:28 PM.
cny-bikeman is offline  
Old 06-04-23, 04:17 PM
  #17  
tornado60
Full Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 278
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 37 Post(s)
Liked 19 Times in 13 Posts
Originally Posted by cny-bikeman
A better video could possibly help - perhaps have someone trot alongside you or pan as you ride slowly by. That would help clearly see the relationship between the noise and crank or wheel rotation.
The other thing here is that we need more info, so that people are not reduced to mostly guessing. Below are some questions that should help in narrowing down possible causes and areas to focus on - they are helpful in many clicking situations:
1. Do you know if it occurs in time with pedal or wheel rotation, or neither?
2. Does the timing change at all in different gears?
3. Does it require higher pedal pressure to create it?
4. Does it change if you change position to put more pressure on front vs. rear wheels, or if you pedal out of the saddle?
5. Did it occur after any change in equipment, maintenance procedure, an accident, or extreme weather?

It's very difficult to tell, but after multiple views of the 2nd video, it appears to me that the noise occurs twice with each rotation of the front wheel (I believe I could make out the label coming around). IF that is true, then we can eliminate everything but the wheels, and spokes are then a strong possibility. Although that would normally happen in every gear, and whether pedaling or not. there may be something out of the usual going on in this case. The higher gears usually mean more pressure on the rear cogs, which is transferred to the spokes. That might stress them enough to keep them from rubbing against each other the same way in the higher gears. That's admittedly a lot of guessing as well, but that's all I can come up with. To check spokes for a clicking problem, go to each X where they cross and press the pair toward each other by grabbing them toward the rim and squeezing. If there's a problem you will feel a click as they flex, which is from a groove or being worn from them flexing against each other (due to low spoke tension).

I'm very doubtful about the spoke issue, so please get back to us with the answers to the diagnostic questions above. Thank you.
1. Seems to occur every 1/2to 1 rotation. Doesn't happen when coasting.
2. Not in different gears, but the faster I pedal the faster it comes.
3. No it does not necessarily require higher pressure to create it. Maybe slightly elevated tension on the chain will bring it on. I have noticed it sometimes lets up on downhills. Sometimes. Also does not want to do it in repair stand.
4. I don't change position much. I have noticed giving the back abit of a shake sometimes helps temporarily.
5. Always done it. Bikes new but unfortunately not from my LBS. They would still let me bring it in.

Last edited by tornado60; 06-04-23 at 07:17 PM.
tornado60 is offline  
Old 06-05-23, 07:51 PM
  #18  
cny-bikeman
Mechanic/Tourist
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Syracuse, NY
Posts: 7,522

Bikes: 2008 Novara Randonee - love it. Previous bikes:Motobecane Mirage, 1972 Moto Grand Jubilee (my fave), Jackson Rake 16, 1983 C'dale ST500.

Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 486 Post(s)
Liked 11 Times in 11 Posts
The fact that occurs once or twice perd revolution pretty much narrows it down to the pedals, cranks, or bottom bracket. After listening with the audio turned up on the video it sounds like too low a pitch and too loud to be the crank/spindle interface or the pedal/crank interface. I think the bottom bracket itself is the most likely culprit. Again it's hard without having hands on the bike but let's try this test: Stand over the bike and put the crank arms horizontal. Put on both brakes and step on to the forward pedal with all of your weight. Rotate the cranks 180 and stomp down on the other pedal with the brakes on. If you feel or hear a clunk when you do that then the bottom bracket is definitely the problem. Both crank arms will need to be removed and the bottom bracket checked for tightness and torque on both sides.

Last edited by cny-bikeman; 06-05-23 at 07:56 PM.
cny-bikeman is offline  
Old 06-07-23, 09:51 AM
  #19  
tiger1964 
Senior Member
 
tiger1964's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maryland, USA
Posts: 2,234

Bikes: Drysdale/Gitane/Zeus/Masi/Falcon/Palo Alto/Raleigh/Legnano

Mentioned: 32 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 881 Post(s)
Liked 518 Times in 344 Posts
That's a handy list to hang onto; that said, it was something I did not want to read... I've been installing sealed-bearing bottom brackets, sealed bearing hubs and pedals, and converted to waxing chains -- so not much call for grease on bikes, and I like not having it around to attack dirt.

But, on a ride yesterday on a bike recently completed, a little creak at once per crank revolution. So, for starters, pulled the cranks and a thin coating on BB spindle tapers, and mounting bolts & washers and the chainring bolts and their mounting surfaces on the rings and arms. Now for a test ride, I hope it was worth it!

If that does not work, I'll work through various parts of the list -- pedal threads and both faces of the pedal washers comes to mind.

Originally Posted by KerryIrons
Clicks tied to your pedaling can come from

- BB (grease all threads in contact with the frame and BB, all metal to metal contact surfaces, and torque to the recommended settings, which can be quite high), the faces of tapered BB axles if they have a little corrosion

- bolt holding the BB cable guide onto the frame (grease threads and make sure the bolt is not touching the BB shell inside the frame)

- BB cable guide (grease threads and tighten)

- crank bolts (grease threads and washers)

- chain ring bolts (take them all out and grease the threads, the faces where they contact the CRs, and the CRs where they contact the crank spider arms)

[lots of snipping]

Wheels can make noises when pedaling or coasting (check for spoke tension, particularly on the rear non drive side, put a drop of lube where each pair of spokes cross and where each spoke enters the rim and the hub flange, check for loose metal bits or spoke nipples in the body of the rim and cracks in the rim at spoke holes.).
__________________
Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.


tiger1964 is offline  
Old 06-26-23, 12:35 PM
  #20  
tornado60
Full Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 278
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 37 Post(s)
Liked 19 Times in 13 Posts
took it to my shop and they made some adjustments mostly to my shifting. Sound seems much improved.
tornado60 is offline  
Old 06-26-23, 12:48 PM
  #21  
zandoval 
Senior Member
 
zandoval's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bastrop Texas
Posts: 4,064

Bikes: Univega, Peu P6, Peu PR-10, Ted Williams, Peu UO-8, Peu UO-18 Mixte, Peu Dolomites

Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 767 Post(s)
Liked 1,315 Times in 840 Posts
You don't list what kind of bike or your location in your profile. I don't really know what kind of bike you are ridding.

Check your spoke tensions on the rear wheel. Just look for a loose spoke.

I chased a Cluck on my bike for over a year. Literally checking Stem to Stern and never found the cause until I changed out my rear wheel do to a flat. Suddenly the Cluck was gone! It turned out to be the 3rd Cog on my freewheel. So you may ask what caused the cluck in the 3rd cog of my freewheel? DUH! I just replaced it and the bike remains fixed. It was a Shimano MF TZ30 6 speed. Note also that this has happened two times where I just replaced the freewheel and the cluck disappeared.

I no longer cry when I have to replace my chains or freewheels. Now days it seems to be an item more subject to wear and tear. Also... I am a friction shifter guy and do quite a bit of mashing in my 3rd cog. That may have allot to do with it...
__________________
No matter where your at... There you are... Δf:=f(1/2)-f(-1/2)
zandoval is offline  
Old 06-26-23, 12:52 PM
  #22  
zandoval 
Senior Member
 
zandoval's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bastrop Texas
Posts: 4,064

Bikes: Univega, Peu P6, Peu PR-10, Ted Williams, Peu UO-8, Peu UO-18 Mixte, Peu Dolomites

Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 767 Post(s)
Liked 1,315 Times in 840 Posts
Originally Posted by tornado60
took it to my shop... Sound seems much improved...
Bravo! It must be nice to have a shop; and one that can actually fix things. We have no shops in my AO.

Over in Austin they would be more interested in selling ya a new bike... Ha
__________________
No matter where your at... There you are... Δf:=f(1/2)-f(-1/2)
zandoval is offline  
Old 06-26-23, 02:04 PM
  #23  
tornado60
Full Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 278
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 37 Post(s)
Liked 19 Times in 13 Posts
Originally Posted by zandoval
Bravo! It must be nice to have a shop; and one that can actually fix things. We have no shops in my AO.

Over in Austin they would be more interested in selling ya a new bike... Ha
It is. I hope they stick around for a while.
tornado60 is offline  
Likes For tornado60:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2023 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.