wobbly tire wheel true as an arrow?
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wobbly tire wheel true as an arrow?
I am fighting a Rene Hersey RTP on my front wheel. the wheel is absolutely true in every way. the bead is set properly according to RH ie you can see the little lines all the way around the bead. maybe no big deal for a fat tire but it bugs me. the front makes it look like I have a wobbly rim which I don't have. maybe just nature of the RTP tires but the rear does not have nearly as much wobble. I don't think it was like this early on. Is it possible the sidewall is bad? this is a standard casing rtp. thanks.
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I'd swap the tires front to back, just to verify. Send the videos to RH, maybe they will replace the tire. On the other hand, if it wasn't like that when new you could have hit something and damaged the casing. I hate seeing a wobble and if I had to keep using a tire like that I'd leave it on the rear.
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I've had that happen with RH tires but they have always settled in properly with a day or two of riding. If not, and the rim is ok, then the tire might be defective.
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I'd swap the tires front to back, just to verify. Send the videos to RH, maybe they will replace the tire. On the other hand, if it wasn't like that when new you could have hit something and damaged the casing. I hate seeing a wobble and if I had to keep using a tire like that I'd leave it on the rear.

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I also run a set of rh naches pass and they are not this way there is not runout on those. both mounted on the same rims ie velocity dyad26's. I actually run 3 sets of tires that I swap back and forth on the rtp, naches and tservs. none of the others do that.
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If it is something innocuous like a crease in the tire from being folded into the package, it should resolve in a day or two. Otherwise just contact them. They have replaced tires for me before.
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They replaced a tire for me that had at least that much mileage on it, probably double. I asked about a split in the sidewall. I wasn't asking for a refund or replacement, but they did it anyway.
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I had one that looked similar. I thought the tube was twisted a little so I removed and remounted things with a little reloading mica dusted into the tire and wiped on the tube. It resolved but I don't know for sure what the initial cause was.
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Crap tires on a perfectly true rim, is still going to end up as a crap wheelset.
I see this a lot when customers opt for $10 city slicks for their $1000 bikes.
It amazes me how some folks spend more on a restaurant served hamburger+fries that will give them 10 minutes of satisfaction, over a good tire that will give them 10 years of service.
I see this a lot when customers opt for $10 city slicks for their $1000 bikes.
It amazes me how some folks spend more on a restaurant served hamburger+fries that will give them 10 minutes of satisfaction, over a good tire that will give them 10 years of service.
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if you've ever watched how tires are made, it's amazing that they don't wobble more than they do... add in the high turnover of skilled workers for newbies during the Pandemic, and yep, there's some bad products getting sold now...
best course is to
1.. remove tire and tube
2.. verify that the RIM BAND/nipple cover is the Correct width and properly Centered on the rim, not overlapping the Bead Seat Area at all...
3.. remount tire and tube, Apply some really Soapy Water to the Bead area (I use Dawn or Ivory.. other dish or hand soaps will work), air it up to about 10 lbs. and then TWIST it back and forth (side to side) to help the bead seat in (do this in about 6 or more locations around the tire).
4.. finish airing the tire up to Maximum pressure, then let it sit around for a while... i have a Maxxis Ardent knobby that Refuses to seat up properly until it gets aired up to 5-10 lbs. PAST Max pressure!... i leave it in the sun to aid beading.. it finally slips into place after an hour or so, then it gets reset to my chosen35lb. MTB pressure for that type of tire.... that's half of the seating pressure, BTW. It's twin beads up normally, and easily, every time... sigh........
5.. get used to a wobbly tire if none of that worked... it's Crooked,and nothing will change that fact... if it doesn't lump up and down while you're riding, it won't actually matter..
The Maxxis Ardent lumps up and down if it doesn't seat in... Getting my Silverstone Rally Car tires to seat up was a major struggle... they got aired up to 85 lbs. with a LOT of soap before they seated in...the "POP!" was loud and scared everyone in the shop! The aging Coates tire machine was never quite the same after dealing with those Silverstones.... they had to be heated and strapped just to get them to take air... sidewalls from hell, tread almost as soft as Karting Rain tires.... but, boy, what a difference from normal car tires!
best course is to
1.. remove tire and tube
2.. verify that the RIM BAND/nipple cover is the Correct width and properly Centered on the rim, not overlapping the Bead Seat Area at all...
3.. remount tire and tube, Apply some really Soapy Water to the Bead area (I use Dawn or Ivory.. other dish or hand soaps will work), air it up to about 10 lbs. and then TWIST it back and forth (side to side) to help the bead seat in (do this in about 6 or more locations around the tire).
4.. finish airing the tire up to Maximum pressure, then let it sit around for a while... i have a Maxxis Ardent knobby that Refuses to seat up properly until it gets aired up to 5-10 lbs. PAST Max pressure!... i leave it in the sun to aid beading.. it finally slips into place after an hour or so, then it gets reset to my chosen35lb. MTB pressure for that type of tire.... that's half of the seating pressure, BTW. It's twin beads up normally, and easily, every time... sigh........
5.. get used to a wobbly tire if none of that worked... it's Crooked,and nothing will change that fact... if it doesn't lump up and down while you're riding, it won't actually matter..
The Maxxis Ardent lumps up and down if it doesn't seat in... Getting my Silverstone Rally Car tires to seat up was a major struggle... they got aired up to 85 lbs. with a LOT of soap before they seated in...the "POP!" was loud and scared everyone in the shop! The aging Coates tire machine was never quite the same after dealing with those Silverstones.... they had to be heated and strapped just to get them to take air... sidewalls from hell, tread almost as soft as Karting Rain tires.... but, boy, what a difference from normal car tires!
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you might have a tire that came out of the mold crooked, but before you conclude that, spin the wheel...
and eyeball the place where the rim and tire meet as the wheel goes around. See pic. Is the tire properly beaded or is there a portion where the tire bead is uneven ?
if the bead line appears to be hopping up and down, there's your problem.
like it is not seated. Sometimes I mount tires and put the pressure up to 120 and you can hear the beads seat.
I think that method is recommended for tubeless tires.
/markp
and eyeball the place where the rim and tire meet as the wheel goes around. See pic. Is the tire properly beaded or is there a portion where the tire bead is uneven ?
if the bead line appears to be hopping up and down, there's your problem.
like it is not seated. Sometimes I mount tires and put the pressure up to 120 and you can hear the beads seat.
I think that method is recommended for tubeless tires.
/markp

Last edited by mpetry912; 05-28-23 at 04:48 PM.
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Crap tires on a perfectly true rim, is still going to end up as a crap wheelset.
I see this a lot when customers opt for $10 city slicks for their $1000 bikes.
It amazes me how some folks spend more on a restaurant served hamburger+fries that will give them 10 minutes of satisfaction, over a good tire that will give them 10 years of service.
I see this a lot when customers opt for $10 city slicks for their $1000 bikes.
It amazes me how some folks spend more on a restaurant served hamburger+fries that will give them 10 minutes of satisfaction, over a good tire that will give them 10 years of service.


Last edited by shelbyfv; 05-28-23 at 04:53 PM. Reason: Duh
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Crap tires on a perfectly true rim, is still going to end up as a crap wheelset.
I see this a lot when customers opt for $10 city slicks for their $1000 bikes.
It amazes me how some folks spend more on a restaurant served hamburger+fries that will give them 10 minutes of satisfaction, over a good tire that will give them 10 years of service.
I see this a lot when customers opt for $10 city slicks for their $1000 bikes.
It amazes me how some folks spend more on a restaurant served hamburger+fries that will give them 10 minutes of satisfaction, over a good tire that will give them 10 years of service.
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if you've ever watched how tires are made, it's amazing that they don't wobble more than they do... add in the high turnover of skilled workers for newbies during the Pandemic, and yep, there's some bad products getting sold now...
best course is to
1.. remove tire and tube
2.. verify that the RIM BAND/nipple cover is the Correct width and properly Centered on the rim, not overlapping the Bead Seat Area at all...
3.. remount tire and tube, Apply some really Soapy Water to the Bead area (I use Dawn or Ivory.. other dish or hand soaps will work), air it up to about 10 lbs. and then TWIST it back and forth (side to side) to help the bead seat in (do this in about 6 or more locations around the tire).
4.. finish airing the tire up to Maximum pressure, then let it sit around for a while... i have a Maxxis Ardent knobby that Refuses to seat up properly until it gets aired up to 5-10 lbs. PAST Max pressure!... i leave it in the sun to aid beading.. it finally slips into place after an hour or so, then it gets reset to my chosen35lb. MTB pressure for that type of tire.... that's half of the seating pressure, BTW. It's twin beads up normally, and easily, every time... sigh........
5.. get used to a wobbly tire if none of that worked... it's Crooked,and nothing will change that fact... if it doesn't lump up and down while you're riding, it won't actually matter..
The Maxxis Ardent lumps up and down if it doesn't seat in... Getting my Silverstone Rally Car tires to seat up was a major struggle... they got aired up to 85 lbs. with a LOT of soap before they seated in...the "POP!" was loud and scared everyone in the shop! The aging Coates tire machine was never quite the same after dealing with those Silverstones.... they had to be heated and strapped just to get them to take air... sidewalls from hell, tread almost as soft as Karting Rain tires.... but, boy, what a difference from normal car tires!
best course is to
1.. remove tire and tube
2.. verify that the RIM BAND/nipple cover is the Correct width and properly Centered on the rim, not overlapping the Bead Seat Area at all...
3.. remount tire and tube, Apply some really Soapy Water to the Bead area (I use Dawn or Ivory.. other dish or hand soaps will work), air it up to about 10 lbs. and then TWIST it back and forth (side to side) to help the bead seat in (do this in about 6 or more locations around the tire).
4.. finish airing the tire up to Maximum pressure, then let it sit around for a while... i have a Maxxis Ardent knobby that Refuses to seat up properly until it gets aired up to 5-10 lbs. PAST Max pressure!... i leave it in the sun to aid beading.. it finally slips into place after an hour or so, then it gets reset to my chosen35lb. MTB pressure for that type of tire.... that's half of the seating pressure, BTW. It's twin beads up normally, and easily, every time... sigh........
5.. get used to a wobbly tire if none of that worked... it's Crooked,and nothing will change that fact... if it doesn't lump up and down while you're riding, it won't actually matter..
The Maxxis Ardent lumps up and down if it doesn't seat in... Getting my Silverstone Rally Car tires to seat up was a major struggle... they got aired up to 85 lbs. with a LOT of soap before they seated in...the "POP!" was loud and scared everyone in the shop! The aging Coates tire machine was never quite the same after dealing with those Silverstones.... they had to be heated and strapped just to get them to take air... sidewalls from hell, tread almost as soft as Karting Rain tires.... but, boy, what a difference from normal car tires!

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Please clarify. Are you saying you put the rear tire on the front and the tire that wobbled on the front doesn't wobble on the rear and the tire that didn't wobble on the rear now wobbles on the front? If that is the case, then it is obviously not a tire problem. If you're saying that the "smooth" rear tire is also smooth on the front and the wobbly front tire is wobbly on the rear, then it's time to call RH. This assumes it is a wobble you can't live with and you're willing to invest the time and effort to get them to replace the tire.
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also JAD (OP) take your 90 degree countersink and deburr the valve hole.
since you're not running a rim strip, that sharp edge is going to cut into the tube
just sayin
/markp
since you're not running a rim strip, that sharp edge is going to cut into the tube
just sayin
/markp

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Anyway, I got a pair of Vittorio Pros from a dealer that were take-offs for a really (too good) price. The center of the tire goes from side to side. It did't effect the use, so I rode it into the ground with no issues, but it explained why someone wanted it off their new bike.
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Please clarify. Are you saying you put the rear tire on the front and the tire that wobbled on the front doesn't wobble on the rear and the tire that didn't wobble on the rear now wobbles on the front? If that is the case, then it is obviously not a tire problem. If you're saying that the "smooth" rear tire is also smooth on the front and the wobbly front tire is wobbly on the rear, then it's time to call RH. This assumes it is a wobble you can't live with and you're willing to invest the time and effort to get them to replace the tire.
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there is no sharp edge it might look that way but it is smooth but regardless a bit of rim tape on the valve stem hole for safe measures.
Last edited by jadmt; 05-31-23 at 01:21 PM.