Wheel fit issue
#1
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Wheel fit issue
I just had an old frame repainted because it's custom to me and I love it. Got a nice new FLO wheelset which I also love. Wheel is 28mm outside width. Got 28mm tires and they rub the seat stays. Put on a set of older schwalbe pro one tires in 25mm and they spin on the stand with room to spare but when ipedal everything flexes just enough that they still rub. There's got to be a way to rig it. I don't think they make a good 23mm tubeless do they? I could perhaps:
Grind down a bit of the crown of the seat stays. or I could shim the wheels so they sit a mm or 2 lower in the dropouts.
What ideas do y'all have?
Grind down a bit of the crown of the seat stays. or I could shim the wheels so they sit a mm or 2 lower in the dropouts.
What ideas do y'all have?
#2
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I just had an old frame repainted because it's custom to me and I love it. Got a nice new FLO wheelset which I also love. Wheel is 28mm outside width. Got 28mm tires and they rub the seat stays. Put on a set of older schwalbe pro one tires in 25mm and they spin on the stand with room to spare but when ipedal everything flexes just enough that they still rub. There's got to be a way to rig it. I don't think they make a good 23mm tubeless do they? I could perhaps:
Grind down a bit of the crown of the seat stays. or I could shim the wheels so they sit a mm or 2 lower in the dropouts.
What ideas do y'all have?
Grind down a bit of the crown of the seat stays. or I could shim the wheels so they sit a mm or 2 lower in the dropouts.
What ideas do y'all have?
#3
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Get a frame that is made for wider tires.
If you insist on making this frame work with wider tires, and it's a steel frame, then you might collapse the radius of the tubing on the side that rubs back into the tube itself. But this will depend on how good you are at doing such and might just as well have you getting that other frame anyhow.
You might have seen some chain stays on the drive side of steel bikes collapsed in a similar fashion to give clearance for the rings.
If you insist on making this frame work with wider tires, and it's a steel frame, then you might collapse the radius of the tubing on the side that rubs back into the tube itself. But this will depend on how good you are at doing such and might just as well have you getting that other frame anyhow.
You might have seen some chain stays on the drive side of steel bikes collapsed in a similar fashion to give clearance for the rings.
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#4
Senior Member
23mm tubeless tires aren't crazily difficult to find if you look. QBP (the most popular bike distributor in the US) shows stock for Vittoria Corsa Speed in 23mm, which admittedly is a race-day oriented tire. Lots of NOS for older Hutchinson tires etc.
Also maybe save the FLOs for another bike. Pick something with a more modest 17-19mm interior rim width, a less crazy stiff rim, and more spokes and you can probably run a common 25mm tubeless tire without modifying your frame.
Also, if you are rubbing on only one stay, you could dish slightly away from that side.
Also maybe save the FLOs for another bike. Pick something with a more modest 17-19mm interior rim width, a less crazy stiff rim, and more spokes and you can probably run a common 25mm tubeless tire without modifying your frame.
Also, if you are rubbing on only one stay, you could dish slightly away from that side.
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No idea about narrow tubeless road tires. But rigging it does not sound safe.
#6
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I have a pair of Vittoria tubeless wheels that I've run with tubes most of their lives. I just recently set them up tubeless when I got a NOS set of Mavic tubeless wheels, which have been run with tubes since I got them almost a year ago.
Since I have a handful of old steel bikes it doesn't really make much sense to run them all tubeless anyways, just the ones I put the most miles on.
Since I have a handful of old steel bikes it doesn't really make much sense to run them all tubeless anyways, just the ones I put the most miles on.
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If the frame is steel you can dimple the stay to create more clearance.
Otherwise I'd go with a narrower rim and run 25s or 28s. I run rims with ID of 16-18mm (OD 23-25mm) and I run 25mm tires. The old GP4Ks run fat so they're like 27mm on a modern wide rim - about the widest I can fit on some frames but rubs on a couple others.
I've tried the shim thing where I used a 20mmx10mmx2mm washer on my QR axle (between the hub and the frame) and it did create some clearance but like you said, wheels flex...
See black spacers on the inner dropouts below



Here the Ti frame tolerates it and I've also done with with carbon frames (to protect the dropout inner surface, not to increase clearance).
Otherwise I'd go with a narrower rim and run 25s or 28s. I run rims with ID of 16-18mm (OD 23-25mm) and I run 25mm tires. The old GP4Ks run fat so they're like 27mm on a modern wide rim - about the widest I can fit on some frames but rubs on a couple others.
I've tried the shim thing where I used a 20mmx10mmx2mm washer on my QR axle (between the hub and the frame) and it did create some clearance but like you said, wheels flex...
See black spacers on the inner dropouts below



Here the Ti frame tolerates it and I've also done with with carbon frames (to protect the dropout inner surface, not to increase clearance).
Last edited by tFUnK; 06-09-23 at 01:49 AM.