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Recanting from my coaster brake hate

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Recanting from my coaster brake hate

Old 06-11-23, 09:17 AM
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Recanting from my coaster brake hate

The shoes of the CB-E110 and KT Hi stop.
Are the shoes through hardened or case hardened?

Thank you.

Looking to build one or two bikes with clean handlebars. Not looking to go fixed.
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Old 06-11-23, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by SkinGriz
The shoes of the CB-E110 and KT Hi stop.
Are the shoes through hardened or case hardened?

Thank you.

Looking to build one or two bikes with clean handlebars. Not looking to go fixed.
Oil bath The shoes are more akin to tool steel than anything else.
https://sheffieldgaugeplate.co.uk/bl...rdening-steel/
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Old 06-11-23, 12:48 PM
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Spare parts.
Notice all the kids bikes tossed into bins, piles and just generally cast off?
The vast majority have coaster brake hubs in them.
about half of those are normal sized shimano knock offs (the others are useless odd sized junk)
of those, there are some of very good quality and the rest is crap.
It's a process, but I never pay for coaster brake parts for shimano knockoffs
The KT is a shimano knockoff but consistently good quality.
I'm a KT fanboi. Their two speed kickback coaster brake is a favorite of mine.
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Old 06-11-23, 06:06 PM
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Thank you.

Do you find any difference in performance between the KT shoes and Shimano shoes? The ridges are in different directions.

Do you think there could be any benefit to putting a cross hatch pattern on the shoes with something like 80 grit? Or maybe that would just scrape off the hardened layer without appreciably improving anything?

I remember reading somewhere else that your a bit larger than me (Iím 185-190#). How hard are you on the hubs? Have you popped a flange off? Can a flange be tacked to the hub?

Just last few days I stripped the guts out of a hub, cleaned and greased and reassembled. The cog slots had a lot of slop and the cog was a little worn so I tacked them together.

I pretty much only use this particular bike for jogging our dogs so I havenít gotten around to actually paying attention to brake modulation, drive drag, etc.
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Old 06-11-23, 07:53 PM
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Can't leave it exactly the same
. I've never noticed a difference as long as they fit correctly
No, the shoes are smooth for modularity if you roughened them they'd be an on off switch.
It sounds like the spring between the clutch and driver has weakened or distorted
A cheap way to rebuild your hub is this, don't buy individual parts.
https://www.performancebike.com/shim...698010/p315962
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Old 06-11-23, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by SkinGriz
Thank you.

Do you find any difference in performance between the KT shoes and Shimano shoes? The ridges are in different directions.

Do you think there could be any benefit to putting a cross hatch pattern on the shoes with something like 80 grit? Or maybe that would just scrape off the hardened layer without appreciably improving anything?

I remember reading somewhere else that your a bit larger than me (Iím 185-190#). How hard are you on the hubs? Have you popped a flange off? Can a flange be tacked to the hub?

Just last few days I stripped the guts out of a hub, cleaned and greased and reassembled. The cog slots had a lot of slop and the cog was a little worn so I tacked them together.

I pretty much only use this particular bike for jogging our dogs so I havenít gotten around to actually paying attention to brake modulation, drive drag, etc.
Every coaster brake I have ever ridden was capable of locking up the rear wheel You don't need any more than that, especially at the rear wheel, and as Schweinhund said, adding any roughness to teh pad would make the brake nearly impossible to modulate properly, causing it to be either locked or unlocked. Not what you want in a brake.
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Old 06-12-23, 09:16 AM
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It's a little finicky but I'm a big fan of rebuilding coaster hubs with loose bearings. Especially on Shimano units there's a notable difference in the smoothness of the hub. Lower quality hubs benefit less I think just because the build quality is sloppier.

A higher quality cog and spring clip, like from a Sturmey-Archer or Shimano IG hub kit, will eliminate a lot of cog slop. Ideally the spring clip fit is tight enough that you need to seat it with a punch and hammer.

Last edited by eeuuugh; 06-12-23 at 09:20 AM.
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