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Ultegra 8000 shifting- is this normal?

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Ultegra 8000 shifting- is this normal?

Old 06-16-23, 07:37 AM
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Ultegra 8000 shifting- is this normal?

I just rebuilt my bike.., going from Ultegra 6700 10 speed triple to an 8000 11-speed compact double.


everything is new (unused), except i kept my 6700 brakes.., for now at least.


i now have a 50/34 crank, and an 11-30 cassette.


my first reaction is: wow.., you really have to be careful about cross-chaining with this groupset. With a triple, it's not so critical. If you are in the middle chain ring, you can easily access all the cogs on a 10-speed cassette.


Anyway, i haven't ridden many miles yet, and after an expected slight re-adjustment following my first ride, the shifting seems pretty good - very crisp compared with the 6700.


But, one thing i find is that if i end up on my biggest cassette sprocket , and my big chain ring - which i know i shouldn't do - the rear derailleur will not shift the chain to a smaller cassette. the derailleur shifts, but the chain doesn't move. My only option is to shift the front derailleur to the smaller chain ring first, then the rear will shift.


this happens on the road and on the bike stand.


is that normal?


or does it indicate a problem?
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Old 06-16-23, 07:59 AM
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Did you replace the cables during the rebuild?
Have you set the B screw correctly?

What happens if you….

Turn pedals…
Go to big ring. / Small cog
Physically push the rear derailleur to big cog
release the rear derailleur.

Did it get stuck again?

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Old 06-16-23, 08:01 AM
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If your bike won't shift properly and quickly to all the gear combinations, then yes there is a problem. There are some exceptions but you shouldn't be one of them.

I really don't understand why I hear of and see so many people that put up with bikes that won't shift to all the gears. I even watched one person struggle climbing a hill in too high a gear. At the top I ask him if his bike was having trouble shifting gears. He said it shifted perfectly. Then I ask why he didn't shift to a lower gear ratio while climbing. He then said his bike never had been able shift to those gears!

But, as to your issue...

So when you have the chain in the big/big combo the rear won't shift to the next smaller cog? Is there slack in the cable along the downtube when this happens?

Last edited by Iride01; 06-16-23 at 08:06 AM.
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Old 06-16-23, 09:51 AM
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What Cage Length did you buy? Short cage (SS) or Medium cage (GS)?
if you bought the Short Cage version, you are right at the Maximum Capacity for Tooth Change count.

now.. how tight is the chain when in Big/big?
did you use the Big/big, or Small/small technique to set chain length?
if you used the classic Big/big technique, you may need to add two links.
check to see if there is room to add two links by checking cage position in Small/small.
post a pic of Small/small, and Big/big cage position if you can, ok?

and a b-screw adjustment probably won't overcome a too-short chain, but it's worth a try.... as a temporary solution.

If the Upper Roller(jockey wheel) is too close to the Large cog, there isn't enough chain deflection available to allow shifting.to a lower cog.... the only force available for downshifting is the derailleur body spring... "Catching a tooth" to help the shift happen doesn't play into shifting towards a smaller cog.......

Check for Cable Drag as Iride01 recommended too.. a kinked cable, housing, or badly cut housing end can also cause poor shifting.. I'm assuming that you don't have a FRAYED CABLE causing drag...

Last edited by maddog34; 06-16-23 at 10:25 AM.
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Old 06-16-23, 03:44 PM
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lots of possible as noted, my first reaction is too short of chain
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Old 06-16-23, 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by squirtdad
lots of possible as noted, my first reaction is too short of chain
My thought too.
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Old 06-16-23, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Davet
My thought too.
Ditto that-


On the largest ring & cog, you want between 1 & 2" slack.
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Old 06-18-23, 01:09 PM
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dd

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Old 06-20-23, 05:39 AM
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Originally Posted by squirtdad
lots of possible as noted, my first reaction is too short of chain
If that were the case, the chain would bind and he would rip the RD off the bike.
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Old 06-20-23, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Lombard
If that were the case, the chain would bind and he would rip the RD off the bike.
not necessarily, it could be that the chain is long enough to shift up with the derailler pushing, and still work (thought I would guess not well) but it is to short and therefore tight to down shift just with the springs and cogs pushing it down
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Old 06-20-23, 06:10 PM
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I concur with squirtdad Hand pressure at the shifter is enough to force it over into a shift. But spring pressure at the derailleur is not enough to overcome the chain tension holding the chain in the valley of each tooth.
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Old 06-22-23, 03:58 PM
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My guess is a combination of chain length (too short) and B screw adjustment (needs more clearance). Specifically, the too-short chain may be limiting the adjustment of the B screw.
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Old 06-22-23, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Lombard
If that were the case, the chain would bind and he would rip the RD off the bike.
I once sized a chain right at the limit where things shifted fine (just barely) on the stand and even lasted 30+ miles on the road, but eventually did pull my RD into the spokes. I guess my point in mentioning this is both to agree with you and also to note that it's not completely deterministic.
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Old 06-22-23, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun
Ditto that-


On the largest ring & cog, you want between 1 & 2" slack.
Missing in this photo is what the RD should look like in this scenario.
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Old 06-22-23, 04:27 PM
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Wonder if OP ever got this sorted?
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Old 06-22-23, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by tFUnK
Missing in this photo is what the RD should look like in this scenario.
Considering the context of my response, it's moot.
It was asking if the chain was too short.

The RD wasn't in the equation, since it had been functioning until....
If you want a picture, take one of your bike and look at it.
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