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Stock disc brake pads

Old 06-23-23, 02:04 PM
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Stock disc brake pads

First time user with road bikes and mechanical disc brakes.
I find that they sux ...tekto Mirra will new pads make them better?
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Old 06-23-23, 02:12 PM
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How do they suck, specifically? Noisy? Grabby? Won't stop the bike?
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Old 06-23-23, 02:55 PM
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Better pads from Kool or SwissStop will generally always help in some way or another but as shelbyfv said what is going on that they suck?
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Old 06-23-23, 04:07 PM
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There is a reason why most bikes use hydraulics.

Better pads can help to some extent.

Cable-activated hydraulic calipers can help a bit too.

But if you want to do it right, get Shimano hydraulic 105 or GRX or better.
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Old 06-23-23, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by thehammerdog
First time user with road bikes and mechanical disc brakes.
I find that they sux ...tekto Mirra will new pads make them better?
That depends on the nature of the problem - you might do better to fit new cables.
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Old 06-23-23, 05:26 PM
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Tektro Mira are single piston mechanical. Meaning the kind that requires the most frequent manual adjustment of pretty much any brake in existence.

Presumably they worked at some point in the past, but they do not now. What changed?

Have you tried to adjust them to return them to proper performance? YouTube can help. So can a piece of white paper on the floor to reflect light up through the gap between the pads and the rotor to see what the gap is.

How contaminated are the pads?
Is the rotor glazed?

I'm just spit-ballin' here. Define: "suck"
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Old 06-24-23, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by shelbyfv
How do they suck, specifically? Noisy? Grabby? Won't stop the bike?
they just don't grab I was very surprised to learn that I was not able to slow bike on hard turn and went into the brush..
Not sure of any brake in time needed...but they failed.
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Old 06-24-23, 06:38 AM
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Originally Posted by base2
Tektro Mira are single piston mechanical. Meaning the kind that requires the most frequent manual adjustment of pretty much any brake in existence.

Presumably they worked at some point in the past, but they do not now. What changed?

Have you tried to adjust them to return them to proper performance? YouTube can help. So can a piece of white paper on the floor to reflect light up through the gap between the pads and the rotor to see what the gap is.

How contaminated are the pads?
Is the rotor glazed?

I'm just spit-ballin' here. Define: "suck"
Bike new ..
I have no prior experience with said style on road bike.
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Old 06-24-23, 07:35 AM
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I'd suggest starting with a break in procedure. Google if Tektro has one. If not, try a generic.
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Old 06-24-23, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by thehammerdog
they just don't grab I was very surprised to learn that I was not able to slow bike on hard turn and went into the brush..
Not sure of any brake in time needed...but they failed.
You need to condition the rotors by steadily applying the brake and releasing, with increasing lever effort over a few cycles - this deposits brake pad material on the rotor and should result in more progressive and powerful braking. If you have a good hill then ride down that a few times, braking but not to a stop. If you can't get good stopping power you might find that roughening the pads with coarse abrasive then repeating the break-in procedure improves power, otherwise try some different pads. This assumes there's no contamination of the braking surfaces - if that's a possibility you should wipe the rotors with IPA, meths, acetone or automotive brake cleaner (keep it away from the hub bearings). Contaminated brake pads probably can't be saved, you can try sanding the surface off. then wiping with solvent, don't drench with solvent.
Full disclosure - I use TRP mechanical discs (which are made by Tektro) and I think they're great.
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