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5 Hole Crank Ring Guard

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5 Hole Crank Ring Guard

Old 07-22-23, 01:51 PM
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5 Hole Crank Ring Guard

I need a new 5 hole crank ring guard. My bicycle is an X-Treme X-Cursion Non-Elite:





I think I have all the pertinent dimensions:

52 Teeth

Adjacent Holes: 4.188 Inches/122.7582 MM apart.

Non-Adjacent Holes: 6.938 Inches /176.2252 MM apart.

For this next dimension(Bolt Circle Diameter), I first measured the distance from the the center of a hole to the ring, then I measured from the center of a hole straight across to where the center of a hole would be. Apparently noone else thought to do that, instead coming up with formulas and charts(using the formulas a charts gets you about this same number): 7 inches/177.8 MM

I can't find it. I think its because it's bigger than the standard sizes. Also, the crank only has 1 gear instead of 3 or 4. If I wanted to get a new one from the manufacturer, I'd have to get a whole new crank. I think I already know all the answers I'm gonna get here. I just wanna make sure I didn't miss anything.

Last edited by Heat88; 07-22-23 at 01:57 PM.
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Old 07-23-23, 12:19 PM
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those typically get removed and tossed in the trash when they break.
If your pants get against the chain, i'd advise tucking the pant leg into your sock, or placing a velcro strap around it.
A local Bike Co-op/recycler may have a used one you can get for low cost...
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Old 07-23-23, 02:03 PM
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2021 was the last summer I spent working in a bike shop and recall a customer becoming irate that he was unable to get a ring guard to replace the one that had broken. I told him they are not available and have not been for many decades. They come with the crank and that is it.
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Old 07-23-23, 02:10 PM
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You could do a google search on ebay, craigslist, and other used bike parts online, but my suggestion is a nice piece of bright yellow velcro around the ankle.
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Old 07-23-23, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by TiHabanero
2021 was the last summer I spent working in a bike shop and recall a customer becoming irate that he was unable to get a ring guard to replace the one that had broken. I told him they are not available and have not been for many decades. They come with the crank and that is it.
Actually, there's plenty available online(I actually got one for my other bike a couple years ago). Just not the size I need apparently.
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Old 07-23-23, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by TiHabanero
I told him they are not available and have not been for many decades. They come with the crank and that is it.
That's not actually true. Many popular online bike shops carry them and if you don't mind ordering from China there's a pretty good selection on Aliexpress and Ebay. You can even find a few on Amazon too. Most are just the cheap generic plastic type but there are some nice aluminum ones out there too.
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Old 07-23-23, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by SpedFast
You could do a google search on ebay, craigslist, and other used bike parts online, but my suggestion is a nice piece of bright yellow velcro around the ankle.
It's an electric bicycle, so I don't have that problem. I might have that problem on the rare occasion that I pedal, and I do have that problem with my other regular bicycle.

The problem I do have is the chain slips when I go over a bump. I've had this problem since I bought the bicycle. It could be the chain slipping, but the chain is the length it's supposed to be. Maybe it has something to do with the bike being foldable, but I don't think so.
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Old 07-23-23, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Heat88
It's an electric bicycle, so I don't have that problem. I might have that problem on the rare occasion that I pedal, and I do have that problem with my other regular bicycle.

The problem I do have is the chain slips when I go over a bump. I've had this problem since I bought the bicycle. It could be the chain slipping, but the chain is the length it's supposed to be. Maybe it has something to do with the bike being foldable, but I don't think so.
i'd suspect your rear derailleur more than that grease guard... the grease guard has nothing to do with keeping the chain on the chainring.. and how do you know your chain is "the correct length"?

if the derailleur tension cage points straight back when the bike is shifted to the small rear sprocket, the CHAIN IS TOO LONG, and the cage can't take up slack when pointed straight back.
what is the part number of the rear derailleur? it is stamped into the back of the middle of the derailleur body... on the inner parallelogram piece.... if seeing that is difficult.. what brand and model is the derailleur? that is printed on the outer parallelogram piece.

Last edited by maddog34; 07-23-23 at 03:52 PM.
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Old 02-25-24, 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by maddog34
i'd suspect your rear derailleur more than that grease guard... the grease guard has nothing to do with keeping the chain on the chainring.. and how do you know your chain is "the correct length"?

if the derailleur tension cage points straight back when the bike is shifted to the small rear sprocket, the CHAIN IS TOO LONG, and the cage can't take up slack when pointed straight back.
what is the part number of the rear derailleur? it is stamped into the back of the middle of the derailleur body... on the inner parallelogram piece.... if seeing that is difficult.. what brand and model is the derailleur? that is printed on the outer parallelogram piece.
I figured out that the chain slips off because the rear suspension is loose and it wobbles and the wobble causes the chain to slip off. It seems to be wobbly in two places. Where the shock absorber is(the shock absorber itself, not were its held to the frame by the pins(or whatever you call them)}, and the hinge that's above the bottom bracket. i tried taking the hinge apart to tighten something, but there was nothing to tighten. I guess I'll have to live with it unless someone has an idea. The shock absorber didn't come with bicycle. It came with a bar. Why did they do that? Why would somebody not want a shock absorber? Or maybe they were being cheap?

Originally Posted by maddog34
if the derailleur tension cage points straight back when the bike is shifted to the small rear sprocket, the CHAIN IS TOO LONG, and the cage can't take up slack when pointed straight back.
That's great information. Thanks

By the way, why is the bottom bracket called a bracket? There's nothing bracketish about it.

Last edited by Heat88; 02-25-24 at 11:45 PM.
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Old 02-26-24, 02:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Heat88
I figured out that the chain slips off because the rear suspension is loose and it wobbles and the wobble causes the chain to slip off. It seems to be wobbly in two places. Where the shock absorber is(the shock absorber itself, not were its held to the frame by the pins(or whatever you call them)}, and the hinge that's above the bottom bracket. i tried taking the hinge apart to tighten something, but there was nothing to tighten. I guess I'll have to live with it unless someone has an idea. The shock absorber didn't come with bicycle. It came with a bar. Why did they do that? Why would somebody not want a shock absorber? Or maybe they were being cheap?

That's great information. Thanks

By the way, why is the bottom bracket called a bracket? There's nothing bracketish about it.
I believe it refers to the metal shell (tube) where many of the other frame tubes meet, that the bottom bracket (sealed cartridge, or individual axle/bearings/cups) fits into.
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Old 02-26-24, 02:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Duragrouch
I believe it refers to the metal shell (tube) where many of the other frame tubes meet, that the bottom bracket (sealed cartridge, or individual axle/bearings/cups) fits into.
I know what it is. I'm just wondering why it's called a bracket.
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Old 02-26-24, 04:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Heat88
I know what it is. I'm just wondering why it's called a bracket.
You missed my point. My guess is that it's called that because it's a juncture of multiple tubes; Mechanical brackets often join multiple parts. I could be wrong.

EDIT: From wiki:
The term "bracket" refers to the tube fittings that are used to hold frame tubes together in lugged steel frames[1] which also form the shell that contains the spindle and bearings; the term is now used for all frames, bracketed or not.
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Old 03-04-24, 11:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Heat88
I know what it is. I'm just wondering why it's called a bracket.
The Frame junction is called a "Bottom Bracket"... the Threaded Case, End Cap, BEARINGS and Crank Axle Assembly is called a Bottom Bracket Bearing Assembly, but we bike folks are sometimes lazy, and contracted that lengthy name to just "bottom bracket" long ago.. like saying "wheel" instead of "rim, spokes and hub assembly".

as to that loose swing arm pivot... there SHOULD be replaceable bushings, and/or a pin, or Sleeve that can be replaced... can you post a pic of the swing arm pivot area? or better still, a pic of the parts that you took out while looking for "something to tighten"?.

Last edited by maddog34; 03-05-24 at 12:01 AM.
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Old 03-05-24, 03:26 AM
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Originally Posted by maddog34
The Frame junction is called a "Bottom Bracket"... the Threaded Case, End Cap, BEARINGS and Crank Axle Assembly is called a Bottom Bracket Bearing Assembly, but we bike folks are sometimes lazy, and contracted that lengthy name to just "bottom bracket" long ago.. like saying "wheel" instead of "rim, spokes and hub assembly". 

as to that loose swing arm pivot... there SHOULD be replaceable bushings, and/or a pin, or Sleeve that can be replaced... can you post a pic of the swing arm pivot area? or better still, a pic of the parts that you took out while looking for "something to tighten"?.
Thanks for the explanation in the first paragraph.

There's also 2 plastic caps that cover the axle holes. The hinge axle is 2 parts and a screw. You need two Allen wrenches to get it apart. I need thicker bushings or maybe a washer or two to go between the hinge axle head and the hinge to fix it. Other than lock washers, I don't think they make any washers with a big hole and a narrow body.

How would this hinge be designed on a higher end bike? Bearings instead of bushings? Better plastic for the bushings? Carbon fiber bushings?

I couldn't remove the otherside of the hinge all the way because the plastic ring with magnets in it for the pedal assist for the electric motor is in the way.








Last edited by Heat88; 03-05-24 at 03:37 AM.
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Old 03-05-24, 04:00 AM
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[QUOTE=Heat88;22961867]It's an electric bicycle, so I don't have that problem. I might have that problem on the rare occasion that I pedal, and I do have that problem with my other regular bicycle.
ROFLMAO!
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Old 03-05-24, 05:52 AM
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[QUOTE=Outrider1;23175360]
Originally Posted by Heat88
It's an electric bicycle, so I don't have that problem. I might have that problem on the rare occasion that I pedal, and I do have that problem with my other regular bicycle.
ROFLMAO!
What's so funny?
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Old 03-05-24, 07:38 AM
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You're on on bike forum stating "on the rare occasion I have to pedal...". I just find it very funny. Throttle away!
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Old 03-05-24, 09:33 AM
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My take is that the slop in the rear suspension has far more to do with the problem than the lack of the guard ring. It also seems that your chain is pretty rusty. Rusty chains often do not mesh smoothly with chainrings or cassette cogs resulting in the chain bouncing all over the place as it engages and disengages with the chainring
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Old 03-06-24, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Outrider1
You're on on bike forum stating "on the rare occasion I have to pedal...". I just find it very funny. Throttle away!
Oh, ok. That makes sense.
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Old 03-06-24, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by alcjphil
My take is that the slop in the rear suspension has far more to do with the problem than the lack of the guard ring. It also seems that your chain is pretty rusty. Rusty chains often do not mesh smoothly with chainrings or cassette cogs resulting in the chain bouncing all over the place as it engages and disengages with the chainring
I already figured that out.
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